Monday, 26 June 2017
Friday, 23 June 2017
FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Hodinkee TAG Heuer Skipper (Limited Edition)
CAR221B.FC6350
Pretty much anyone who is heavily into watches will be aware of Hodinkee, they inhabit a particular place in the market which, I have to confess, doesn't appeal to me much. Their aesthetic seems to be exactly that illustrated by this watch, so I suppose it's only fitting that this particular model is a collaboration between TAG Heuer and Hodinkee.
Limited to 125 pieces (and sold out in a few hours, despite a hefty $5,900 price tag) this piece is actually something of a mish-mash, using old cases already engraved with 'Carrera' despite this actually not being a Carrera (although somebody should tell Hodinkee because they they clearly advertised it as the 'Carrera Skipper'. Hmm).
I must admit, I don't hate this as much as I did when I first saw it... although, to me the dial looks horribly unbalanced. The original had two sub-dials which obviously gave it a better symmetry, perhaps it's because of the solid bright colours on the sub-dial, if the dial was the same colour as the main dial, either textured of simply printed on, it would probably have looked less in your face and helped the balance of the piece.
The Hodinkee Carrera Skipper (left) and the original Skipper
Looking at the picture above you might be forgiven for thinking the obvious answer would be to pick up the original Heuer Skipper, but as there are thought to be only 20 pieces in the world (and we can safely assume that the issue of this Hodinkee model is only going to increase interest) it's safe to assume that $6000 is going to get you anywhere near one of those.
One thing that does confuse me slightly, is the lack of an obvious running seconds. The sub-dial at 9 is apparently a 30m chrono counter, and I'm not sure about the original version as it seems to have two dials marked 10-20-30, unless one of those is a 30sec running counter... which would be a bit strange in itself.
Another thing which seems to be causing some rumblings on the Calibre 11 forum is the 'glass box' style sapphire crystal. A lot of people find the distortion it causes annoying, but to be fair if they were trying to replicate the 'general look' of the original then it isn't out of place.
I was quite excited when I heard that TAG were announcing a new watch, but significantly less so when I learned it was a tie-in with Hodinkee. Hodinkee have an air of smugness about them that irritates, they are the sort of company that would send out watches in boxes with rough string tied around them and a hand written label, as if it was a quarter pound of hand made fudge. I'm surprised they don't send you a complimentary pair of deck shoes with your purchase as well!
Sorry, I tried to hold that in, but it just had to come out...
I'm all for the idea of producing very limited edition watches, and even though this one doesn't appeal to me I am surprised at the negative reaction on the Calibre 11 forum, I would have thought anything retro looking with a 'Heuer' logo would have gone down a storm, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
Still, all 125 were sold within the day, so Hodinkee have obviously smashed it out of the park with their audience. I assume at least some of those watches have been purchased as an investment, though it remains to be seen whether that will pay off, I've seen enough limited edition TAGs in the outlet at knock down prices to know that a limited run is no guarantee of anything. However, I guess with such a limited amount of original pieces, there will always be a certain level of interest and that should at least mean these watches don't plummet like a stone.
Thursday, 22 June 2017
FEATURE: Carrera Turbina LSR Carbon Fibre Chronograph
CAR2C92-L/E
An eagle eyed Calibre 11 forum member spotted this one in a Bonhams auction which was due to take place yesterday. This very rare TAG Heuer Carrera Turbina LSR is number two of a limited edition of just ten pieces, made to celebrate the Mad Max Bike Racing team and their land speed records.
This watch actually belonged to the guy who actually rides the bike, a multi-millionaire called Zef Eisenberg (you may know him as the man who sold his 'Maximuscle' company to Glaxo for £162m), so it has great providence, and the estimate was set at £8,000 - £12,000.
Bearing in mind some of the ridiculous prices paid in recent times for things like 'one of' the Monaco's used by Steve McQueen for filming ($800,000) this seems like an absolute steal. If I had that kind of money I might be tempted myself, because I wouldn't be surprised if this sold for £8,000 or failed to sell, such is the apathy towards TAG Heuer models vs Heuer branded pieces.
I'm unsure if this model was ever sold to anyone, but I'm willing to bet the price would have been in that range anyway, when you look at what you're actually getting. A carbon fibre watch with a Calibre 1887 movement, box and papers, a glass back and only ten pieces made,
I will try and find out the result of the auction and update this post when I do.
UPDATE (3rd July 2017): It appears the watch failed to sell at auction.
UPDATE (2018): The watch was sold by Bonhams for 5000 Euros. Wednesday, 21 June 2017
SPOTLIGHT ON: Aquaracer Chronotimer Quartz
CAF1010.BA0821
I've just watched the video review by Breitling Source (see lower down the page) and I thought I would write a little bit about this particular watch.
This model obviously comes from the same family as the yellow dial Calibre S model that I was nearly tempted by not so long ago, with the same split bezel (which I think I like, but I'm not quite sure). This is the sort of watch I can imagine turning up in the TAG outlet's like Bicester Village, it's about the right age and would probably be a great bargain for someone.
Failing that a little research shows that you can pick one like this up from Watchfinder for just under £1000. That sounds a little steep to me, I wouldn't imagine this cost as much as the Calibre S models originally, though I could be wrong. I think £900 second hand would probably be a bit more realistic, but then again I suppose you're paying for Watchfinder's guarantees etc.
Having said that, a quick look at eBay shows a range of £750 to £3500! Would anybody seriously pay £3500 for one of these? That's a chunk of money, I didn't pay that for my Heuer 01.
This watch was available on either a bracelet or a black rubber strap, and while I think the yellow dial version looks much better on the rubber, this one probably looks better on the bracelet. One thing I would say if you do plump for the rubber, is that if and when you need to replace it, expect it to be a little more than your standard F1 straps, since in my experience the straps with ends designed to fit snuggly into (and fill) the space between the lugs are unexpectedly pricey (the strap for my 2000 series was over £100 for example, whereas the strap for my F1 was £45).
Having watched the video I get the impression that the internals of this watch might not be too dissimilar to the workings of the Formula One Kirium, given the layout of the digital elements on the dial. While I'm not usually a massive fan of analog-digi watches, this one is okay. My one complaint would be that the watch has been designed (like the F1 Kirium) so that you can turn off the digital elements, leaving the dial black, except of course here they've framed the lower display with a slightly tacky silver bead. I think this was a mistake. It doesn't look that great and if it wasn't there the watch would so much cooler when the digital was turned off.
The more I look at the watch and think about that the more it annoys me. This watch could have been so much better, just with that silver bead omitted. And that's the sort of detail failure that perhaps explains why TAG watches from this era (2008) aren't especially well loved. Indeed, even though I kind of liked the yellow dial Calibre S, there was something about it that wasn't quite right and I ultimately passed it over for a different watch.
Honestly if this watch came up at a good price I might have been tempted, but now that I've noticed that frame it's really put me off. I think it makes the dial look rather crowded as well, especially as it comes so close to the date. It's a bit of a shame really.
That aside the dial is quite nice, I like the contrast of the white markings on the black dial, and if you've watched the video you will know that they are lumed and the watch also has a back light. The white TAG logo also looks great (as on the F1 Kirium) and was definitely a good choice.
All in all it's a bit of a workaday TAG Heuer, that you could probably pick up easy enough if you wanted one, personally I don't think I've ever used the chrono on my F1 Kirium, and while the chronograph on an automatic is a nice looking thing to have even if you don't use it, the intrusive nature of this one begs the question will you actually use it? If not, then maybe this isn't the watch for you.
Thursday, 15 June 2017
ON THE WRIST: Red Bull Edition Carrera Heuer 01 Chronograph
CAR2A1N.FT6100
Goldsmiths / Milton Keynes 15th June 2017
Another surprise for me today, was seeing the brand new Red Bull edition Heuer 01 Carreras in Goldsmiths. The salesman in the shop told me they were the second place in the country to get them, don't know if that's true or not but I haven't seen them anywhere else yet and I noticed they also had the Tudor Pelagos LHD in the window which is as rare as rocking horse poo (my friend Rich has one) so Goldsmiths at the MK must be the place to be!
I tried on both the leather/rubber strap version and the bracelet and I would say that my initial impression from the original photographs holds up, the leather strap is definitely my choice, and it looks even nicer than I thought it would. Indeed, I thought it could go either way in the flesh, but it's a lovely looking strap and the blue much better compliments the bezel whereas the bracelet comes off a little bland to my eyes.
CAR2A1K.BA0703
As with all bracelet versions of the Heuer 01 Carrera, there's that clunky 'step' transition to deal with as well, and it doesn't look any better here than on any of the others. The leather strap follows the contoured approach of the original rubber and blends in to the case in a much more aesthetically pleasing manner, I can't see why anyone would choose the bracelet personally.
The dial looks great, the white numerals really give the watch a completely different look to the original skeleton, but I have to say the lack of a border around the date is perplexing. Compare with my (original) Heuer 01 and the date is much less clear at a glance. Such a simple thing, it's almost as if they 'forgot' to put one on - surely not?
It's easy to think that these two watches are the same piece on two different straps, but clearly they are not. The leather strap version is titanium and features the same black coated case and red line as on the original skeleton watch. The bracelet version is steel all over and I have to say I don't think the silver case does it any favours either, it just seems rather dull in comparison. Also the pushers on the titanium version look better to me as well, but that could just be because it looks more like my watch.
Both watches are 45mm and the bracelet version retails at £4550, while the leather version is offered at £4400. I would take the leather version even if those prices were reversed to be honest, it just seems by far the more exciting watch and the blue bezel just works so much better with the black case and leather strap.
CAV511A.BA0902
I spent a good half an hour in Goldsmiths chatting to the salesman, who for once actually knew what he was talking about. I mean he didn't know that the black case meant it was titanium - but he knew the difference between a Grand Carrera and Microtimer, He also owns a Kirium so he can't be all bad! He also told me never to buy a Monaco Sixty Nine because they are impossible to service without scratching them and the rubber on the back case leaves marks on the glass... so now you know!
Out of the blue he asked if I had a Grand Carrera, and then produced a pre-owned CAV511A on a bracelet, the very watch I've been bleating on about these last few months (the one that's in my local jewellers) which was being sold for £2850 or thereabouts. And do you know what, I tried it on and I really didn't like it at all. How bizarre. Completely gone off it, which leaves me wondering what my next purchase will be because I had pretty much sold myself on that watch and now I don't know what it might be...
Or even if it will be a TAG Heuer. I'm flirting with Breitling, and while I haven't settled on a piece that is to my taste and price bracket as yet, I did leave Milton Keynes with two Breitling catalogues courtesy of a nice lady in Leslie Davies. Not sure the Breitling for Bentleys are for me though.
ON THE WRIST: Aquaracer Calibre 5 Automatic Watch
WAY2013.BA0927
Beaverbrooks / Milton Keynes 15th June 2017
I was surprised to see this one in the MK Centre today, seeing as it's only just been released! But I thought I should give it a go, and I must say for the money it's a nice little watch. Well I say little, it's not that little, in fact in the window it looked rather large. However, on the wrist it was a very comfortable size (it measures 43mm), looking neither too large nor too small on my 7" wrist.
The bracelet seems a step up from the Formula One range although the clasp is still not brilliant looking. It does have double button deployment though, and you have to take into account that this watch is still fairly 'entry level', indeed for a £300 premium (the watch retails at £1600) this is a Calibre 5 automatic not a quartz model.
The most striking thing about the watch of course, is the white dial, and no doubt there are echoes of the Rolex Explorer II about it. I have a bit of a love/hate thing with white dials, I find they usually look cheap. However, this one seems to work, and the stark contrast with the black edging to the hands and the hour markers sets it off nicely. The black around the markers is quite matt, and in fact it looks a lot like rubber. I don't know if it is or not but it certainly gives that impression.
And then of course, this is set of with the orange second hand, which gives the otherwise two-tone dial a shock of colour. This really works, in much the same way as my own Formula One except in reverse and with an orange hand rather than the red on mine. The slatted effect on the dial provides some nice texture as well and I found myself rather liking this one.
But then there's that cyclops, and this cyclops is particularly nasty. Strangely, it seems too small and seems to make reading the date harder rather than easier, which is not good. I really wish TAG would offer all the Aquaracers with and without the cyclops, there are so many that I would consider buying but for that bloody bubble!
I know you're just waiting for me to say it, but this one would look REALLY good with a black rubber strap. The black outlines on the dial are just screaming out for one, and maybe a nice touch would be to make a pin and buckle strap with the holes outlined in orange, like the one that came with the Kimi Raikkonen Formula One.
Would I buy it? Possibly... it seems I'm going to have to get over the cyclops thing if I'm ever going to own a modern Aquaracer, and this one seems like good value for money and it doesn't look like anything else I currently own. Not sure if they'll hold their value well or not, perhaps I'll wait and see what the second hand market can offer.
Thursday, 8 June 2017
FEATURE: Colour on Watches
I've always considered myself a fan of colour on watches, but now I'm not so sure. There are two reasons I've come to this conclusion, although I wouldn't say I'm completely anti-colour either.
I was watching a WatchUWant video the other day and they brought up the subject of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph, and particularly this bright green boutique only version. No my initial reaction when I first saw this some while ago was - WOW! And it still has a lot of appeal to me, after all I've mentioned before my penchant for bright green...
In the past I was always like, 'Oh so many watches are black and silver, it's so dull'. And then I bought the CAU2012 Formula One Calibre 16 (henceforth referred to as the Orange TAG).
I was after this watch for a long time, and after some initial wobbles I've grown to like it. I can't say 'love it' yet, because I still have some reservations, but mainly I think that is because it's a Formula One rather than a higher end TAG, and even though I got it at a fantastic discount I still can't help thinking of it as a watch that actually cost £2500 (which is too much for a watch with no lume on the dial at all - only the hands. Big thumbs down for that).
Still, I'm past the point I was at a while back where I was seriously thinking of trading it in against something else, most likely the Grand Carrera CAV511A. I still want that watch, and it's still available pre-owned in a local jewellers, and I'm probably going to get that next. But we'll see...
I was watching a WatchUWant video the other day and they brought up the subject of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph, and particularly this bright green boutique only version. No my initial reaction when I first saw this some while ago was - WOW! And it still has a lot of appeal to me, after all I've mentioned before my penchant for bright green...
In the past I was always like, 'Oh so many watches are black and silver, it's so dull'. And then I bought the CAU2012 Formula One Calibre 16 (henceforth referred to as the Orange TAG).
I was after this watch for a long time, and after some initial wobbles I've grown to like it. I can't say 'love it' yet, because I still have some reservations, but mainly I think that is because it's a Formula One rather than a higher end TAG, and even though I got it at a fantastic discount I still can't help thinking of it as a watch that actually cost £2500 (which is too much for a watch with no lume on the dial at all - only the hands. Big thumbs down for that).
Still, I'm past the point I was at a while back where I was seriously thinking of trading it in against something else, most likely the Grand Carrera CAV511A. I still want that watch, and it's still available pre-owned in a local jewellers, and I'm probably going to get that next. But we'll see...
I'm probably going to wait and see what JCB is announcing in the next few months, with this crazy new movement they're talking about. But then if it's going to come in the same 'Heuer 01' style Carrera case I might just pass on that anyway.
Anyway, I'm getting off the point a bit here... colour, this is supposed to be about colour.
One of the things I love about my Aquagraph is the yellow hands, yellow or red highlights on a watch can make a huge difference to the appeal (and the price!), so more colour is better - right? Well, I'm not sure. I mean, don't get me wrong, I think the orange on my TAG looks great, but I have to admit I do think... I don't want to say it makes it look 'cheap', but when you put it against a more conservatively presented watch it does perhaps tilt perception a little.
Which brings me back to the Audemars Piguet, I mean, it's way out of my price range and I'm never likely to own one, but I thought to myself if I did have the money would I buy it? I really don't think I would. As much as I love the colour scheme, I can't help looking at it and thinking, does that watch really look like it costs £20,000 or whatever it is?
No, I think I would probably go for a steel Royal Oak with a black dial instead, but then perhaps if I already had a black dial version and I had unlimited funds I would buy it. I guess what I'm saying is that if I had one high end piece I wouldn't want it to be bright green...
But on the other hand, I don't ten watches that all look the same. I'm at the point now where I have six TAGs and they are all pretty different, and the Grand Carrera will be different too, but after that whatever I buy is probably going to have some similarity to something I've already got (at least if I keep my collection purely TAG Heuer - more on that another time). If I buy an Aquaracer for example, its probably going to bear a passing resemblance to my Aquagraph, unless perhaps it's a noticeably different colour.
Embarrassing as it is, I kinda like this one...
Albeit the strap is a hideous abomination, but that can be easily resolved with the purchase of a rubber band... pity the cyclops isn't as easy to replace! GRRR. (Mind you, I don't think I would buy this new as I can imagine the resale being weak). Mind you I haven't actually seen one, and it could be that when I do I will be like 'Oh, nooooooo!'.
And so this is where the Orange TAG comes into it's own really, even though it's currently not at the top of my pile. Because, it is nice to have something a little different to wear now and again, something that isn't quite so sober and classy as the F1 Kirium, as tooly as the Aquagraph, or as quirky and delicate as the Microtimer. The Orange TAG is a good summer watch, and notwithstanding the crappy buckle on the original strap, is a fun thing to wear out and about with a short sleeve shirt or T-Shirt.
I'm reluctant to say I'd buy another 'colourful' watch, I certainly can't see me picking up the yellow dial Aquaracer Calibre S, even though I do quite like it. I just think it would compete with the orange too much, and I don't think I have enough wrist time to give to both.
So yeah, in conclusion, I think a colourful watch can be a fun thing, but I wouldn't pay too much for it because it will probably never look like it costs what it costs. I think for me, personally, what I've learned from buying the Orange TAG is that I'm not really that into the Formula One range, even a Calibre 16. I think perhaps I would be better sticking with the higher end Aquaracers and Carreras, possibly even an SLR or a (Silver and Black) Monaco 24 in future. Of course there are always exceptions to every rule...
