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Monday, 30 April 2018

BUYING EXPERIENCE: TAG Heuer Lady Link Quartz Chinese Special Edition

WAT1418.BA0954

TAG Heuer Boutique, Biscester Village / 29th April 2018

When I visited last Monday to pick up my new rubber strap I happened to notice a rather striking looking Lady Link in the cabinets at the back of the store. Amongst a sea of pale dialed watches this one really stood out with it's strong purple dial and diamond markers, and when I got home I told my wife about it and she was keen to know more.

So I tried to Google it (I didn't have the part number) and found almost nothing. What I really wanted to know was the case size, because my wife has very small wrists and the 29mm would be perfect for her, but the 34mm would be too big. What we didn't know at the time was that this watch was a special piece made for the Chinese market (which explains why the very limited information I could find on the internet was all on Chinese websites) and while that should have perhaps suggested a smaller case size, I just couldn't find out the diameter for sure.

So I contacted Tom at the Bicester store and he kindly forwarded all the details of the watch to me which confirmed that the watch was indeed 29mm. Actually I was 99% sure it was anyway, because I happened to look through an old TAG catalogue, and while this watch wasn't in it, there were several like it and the ones with numbers starting '13..' were all 34.5mm and the ones starting '14..' were all 29mm, but still it was nice to have it confirmed before driving all the way to Bicester. It would have been rather gutting to get all the way there and then find out it was too big for my wife's wrist.


The reason I say I didn't take enough notice at the time was that when we arrived today I realised that  in the cabinet above were another set of similar watches, but of a larger diameter... clearly the 34mm models! Ah well...

The watch looks absolutely stunning and these pictures really don't do it justice. The bracelet and bezel are highly polished and the Roman numerals are quite subtle, but the dial is very rich and a gorgeous colour. The Guilloche dial changes as the light hits it and makes a perfect backdrop for the eleven diamond hour markers (there is no diamond at the 6 position because the date window is placed there).

I don't know the original price of the piece, but it was on sale today for £1365, with an additional 10% promotional discount bringing it down to £1229. A bit of Googling brought up a WAT1417 (which is the same watch but with a white mother of pearl dial) on offer at Iconic Watches for £1990 down from £2450. Given that this is a much rarer watch it seems to represent an absolutely incredible bargain.

The buying experience itself was great, my wife and I finally got to meet Tom (who I had emailed quite a bit), Agnette (sp?) and catch up with Liam and Sophie again, and we must have been in the shop a good hour before we left them to their busy day.

Sunday, 29 April 2018

SPOTLIGHT ON: TAG Heuer Cufflinks


Another item I spotted while I was at the Bicester Village store last Monday was a couple of pairs of TAG Heuer cufflinks, I can't remember exactly what one of the pairs looked like, though it's possible they were these or something similar.


I definitely remember the TAG logo being in the corner, but as I remember it the face was 'machined' much like a rotor or baseplate. Could be completely wrong about that of course, but they also definitely had these 'Monaco' cufflinks for about £130.


If I actually wore cufflinks, I think I would definitely have these. In fact, it almost makes me want to go out and buy an appropriate shirt just so that I can buy them, still... there's always Christmas. :)


I must admit I think I prefer the 'oblong' Monaco range of cufflinks, these Monaco V4 cufflinks are pretty neat, I'm not entirely sure about these 'Link' cufflinks though... but I guess they're okay.

If cufflinks definitely aren't for you, TAG do (or perhaps have) offer a few other things like wallets, belts, bags, jackets and.... this bangle.


I found this on Watches of Switzerland's website (£200) and while I think it's pretty awful to be honest, if this is your kind of thing W.O.S. can also supply a matching pair of cufflinks for £190.


Personally, I think if it's going to be anything for me it'll be the black 'Monaco' ones, I just don't know if I'm really a cufflink kind of guy.

Saturday, 28 April 2018

SPOTLIGHT ON: TAG Heuer Lady Link Trilogy Collection

WAT1419.BA0954

On my visit to Bicester Village earlier this week, another item I spotted in the window just as I was leaving was this collection of three pieces called the Lady Link Trilogy, which comes in this very nice display box. The set comprises a 29mm diameter Lady Link quartz watch with a black mother of pearl dial, a 'Link' design bracelet and matching ring.


I'm a little confused that the part number for the set seems to be the same as the watch, that implied to me that this particular watch was only available in the set, but it is actually available on it's own (eg- Amazon). The watch looks very nice I must say, with diamonds on both the bezel and used as hour markers and the date window positioned nicely at six, giving the dial a pleasing symmetry.


I kind of assumed that the bracelet was more of a bangle when I saw it in the case, but as the picture above shows, it's a loose piece which presumably could also be worn as a necklace if the owner wanted to. I actually think the bracelet is quite a nice design, regardless of it's obvious inspiration, but the ring I'm not so sure about, it's quite a chunky looking thing to say the least and I'm not sure if it's in any way sizeable? 


It appears that the collection is also available in gold, though I don't have any details of that besides this one picture that I came across...


Google 'Lady Link Trilogy Gold' and you will literally find one result, which is the picture above on 'Pinterest'.

It looks like this collection came out in 2012, which is about the same time the Lady Link Diamond concept watch came out, when Cameron Diaz was TAG's big female ambassador, perhaps the gold set was also only made as a concept piece, it would certainly explain the dearth of information available about it.

I don't have an original list price, but if you live in the UK and you are interested in this set, it is available in the Bicester Village outlet for £3290 (and heads up, this weekend they have a 10% discount, which would push this set under the £3000 mark)...

Friday, 27 April 2018

SPOTLIGHT ON: TAG Heuer Formula One Rabat Limited Edition

CAH1013.BT0717

At first glance you could be forgiven for mistaking this for the Formula 1 Kimi Raikkonen Edition, and while there are some definite similarities, personally I think this is by far the nicer of the two. This is the larger cased Formula 1 with a diameter of 44mm and a 22mm lug width (hence the chunkier BT0717 strap in place of the standard 20mm BT0714). Functionally it's exactly the same as the aforementioned Kimi Raikkonen model, with the date at the 12 position and a quartz movement powering a 1/10th of a second chronograph.

As far as this particular model goes, I found the video below on youtube and was intrigued to find out more. So I did a bit of Googling and it turns out that 'Rabat' is a Spanish jewellers, evidently they had 500 pieces made of the CAH1012.BT0717 but had the back engraved with the company name and the watches numbered (which therefore made it a different watch, hence the CAH1013 nomenclature).


Not really sure that would make it either more collectible or valuable than the standard CAH1012 to be honest, at least outside Spain... and with the name only marked on the back-plate it seems a little bit too much of an 'afterthought' to add any real value or interest. If they had added the 'Rabat' name to the dial I guess that could have made it more interesting to some people, but as it is I don't really get it.


That said, it's a handsome looking watch, albeit in a size that's not going to suit everyone's wrist. This watch features the usual TAG Heuer engraving on the edge away from the crown, and if you are buying one of these I would advise checking that the ink is intact, because it seems par for the course for this to fall out sooner or later (as it has started to on my WAH1110 Formula 1).


Definitely one of the cooler looking Formula 1's of it's era, the standard CAH1012 can be found on Chrono24 for between £700 and £1000. I don't know as I would pay £1000 for it to be honest, even in unworn condition, but maybe if this is your dream watch then it's not completely outrageous..

Thursday, 26 April 2018

ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Golf Quartz Watch

WAE1111-0

TAG Heuer Boutique, Bicester Village / 24th April 2018

Just before I left the outlet, I spied something I've been curious about for a long time, but never actually handled - the TAG Heuer Golf Watch. It's a funny little thing, designed for a particular purpose and with a very unusual way of fastening the strap.

The first thing you notice about the watch I think is the dimpled dial, designed to resemble a golf ball of course. I really liked it actually, it's so different to anything I've ever seen before and I appreciate the willingness to try something new and unique. 

The watch is quite small, it must be said (37mm, so the same as the smaller Monacos), but it is designed to be used for playing golf and as such small and light is clearly the way to go. Also, you will notice the crown is on the left hand side of the case, so as to be out of the way when swinging your club.


Now, what you may not have noticed before (as I didn't) was the two buttons which sit at the top edges of the case. What might they be for I wonder? Well, as you can see the rubber strap has no clasp and while it is somewhat stretchy, it isn't stretchy enough to get over your hand. So in fact, what those buttons do is release the bottom half of the case and release the end of the strap.


Damned weird, right? But actually pretty neat really. The only slight issue is that you have to cut the strap to (near) the right length as there is no possibility for the excess to exit the case on the other side. Once closed the 'teeth' on the insides of the case clamp down on the rubber strap and (I would imagine) hold it pretty solidly, given that it's rubber and rubber doesn't tend to slip very easily. Oddly enough, it makes you wonder how thin this (already pretty thin) watch could be with a conventional pin a buckle strap, as you can see in the picture above, the bottom half of the case is a pretty substantial piece of the overall thickness.

One thing I did notice was that while the hands are very legible, the markers and in particular the number 12 are very reflective and tend to look black most of the time, if you look at the picture at the top of the page that gives a pretty fair representation of what I mean. I've experienced this same design flaw on some otherwise very nice Carreras too, like the Calibre16 'Nismo' for example.

Clearly this watch wasn't for me, 37mm is just too small, but I did quite like it overall. I get that it's for golfing and so needs to be light, thin and generally unobtrusive on the wrist, but I can't help wishing they'd made a 40mm version for those of us with larger wrists. But anyway, I did really like the dial and funnily enough I saw a fake Link 'Tiger Woods' the other day with this kind of dimpled effect and I must admit I thought it looked rather good, maybe they've missed a trick there?

The Golf certainly isn't going to appeal to everyone, it's definitely a quirky one, but I can well imagine it's probably got it's own little set of fans who won't hear a word against it.

Wednesday, 25 April 2018

ON THE WRIST: A Trio of Grand Carreras...


TAG Heuer Boutique, Bicester Village / 24th April 2018

While visiting the outlet to pick up my new strap, a few things caught my eye. There was the Calibre S Links, of which there were two, they looked identical but were nearly £300 different. Liam told me the bracelets were different, couldn't see it myself, but I'm sure he's right. Also on offer was a nice Calibre S Formula 1 for £1200 on either a bracelet or a rubber strap. I must admit I was tempted to try it on, but in the end I decided not to because, basically it's an amalgamation of two watches I already own, and besides, I've kinda set my heart on a Grand Carrera now, which is where these three come in.

CAV511A.FC6225

This was the first one I tried on, purely out of curiosity really, since I've pretty much made up my mind that what I really want is this watch but on a bracelet. And, well, if nothing else it kinda confirmed what I already knew deep down, that leather straps are not really me somehow. It very much reminded me of the strap on the Monaco 24, I'm pretty sure it's the same clasp but the strap had a different number so it's not quite the same. I didn't dwell on this because right away I knew it wasn't what I wanted so I moved on to the real deal.

CAV511A.BA0902

I really do like this watch and am currently exploring ways to get hold of it, it just looks classy, especially on the bracelet. I don't really have a watch like this in my collection, the classiest one I have is probably the 6000 Series, but these two watches are like chalk and cheese really. In a way I sort of feel like this would complete the high end of my collection and then I would probably only buy more affordable pieces. I mean, foolish thing to say perhaps... but that's how it feels to me at the moment. I would like a Monaco of course, but there aren't really any affordable options there and I don't really want to spend £2-3000 on a watch I sort of like for the sake of the collection. I'm too old to get into 'completism', it's not like there's a watch collection police - well there is but I'm not on Instagram. :)

I don't know, it's just a smart watch, and as soon as I put it on it felt right, so much better than the strap version. The only obstacle is the money really, this one is up for £3400, which is a chunk of money whichever way you look at it (and more than I paid for my Heuer01 Carrera let's not forget). Still, like I said, I am exploring my options - which will no doubt form the basis of a future post...

Lastly, because Liam said it was his favourite, I decided to try on the GMT version with the diamond bezel. I was only doing it for a laugh, but surprisingly, I actually really liked it. I know, I mean...! But it looked pretty fantastic on the wrist I have to say. 

WAV5115.BA0901

I've never really been sure about the single subdial Grand Carreras, and looking at the picture above I still have my reservations. But when I had it on my wrist I have to admit, it looked a lot better, and actually gave me pause to rethink slightly. The GMT's are cheaper to buy than the chrono models, quite a bit cheaper in fact, but on the other hand I don't want to settle for something for the sake of a few quid (actually more like a grand, cough!).

Undoubtedly the TAG logo looks better at the 12 position and the double sub dials give the CAV511A a much more pleasing symmetry, but this is still a nice watch. So what about the diamonds? Well, honestly I didn't mind them, I mean they add a ton of money to the watch, which I personally couldn't justify (this was about £5300 IIRC) but, they are actually very tastefully done and while they are obviously 'blingy' it didn't feel like I was wearing a 'rappers' watch. I don't think I'll ever own a watch with diamonds on it, but if I had the money, I wouldn't turn my nose up at this (and I did just notice that Watchfinder have one pre-owned for £2700), and I kinda hope Liam gets to own one of these one day.

So what did I learn? Well, clearly the CAV511A on a bracelet is the one for me, but I've certainly adjusted my opinion of the GMT models and I noticed there was also a single subdial running seconds model (which is even cheaper!) but that one is only 40.5mm in diamater whereas the chronos are 43mm and I'm not really sure about that. Still it's all good knowledge, and at least I can definitely put the idea of a leather strap GC to bed now.

Tuesday, 24 April 2018

BUYING EXPERIENCE: FT8011 Rubber Strap

FT8011

TAG Heuer Boutique, Bicester Village / April 24th 2018

Tom at Bicester Village kindly offered to order me this strap and emailed me when it arrived after a few weeks and so today I made the journey to Bicester after work to pick it up. Unfortunately Tom was in a meeting when I arrived so we didn't get to meet, but I was greeted by Liam instead, who was another new face to me and another solid addition to the team it seems. Long term readers of the blog will know that in the past I haven't been overly impressed with the staff at Bicester, but I must say the current crew are excellent.

Liam was very friendly and helpful, and didn't hesitate when I pulled out my TAG Heuer travel case and asked if he could take a link out of the bracelet on my CAF1010 Chronotimer for me while I was there. We seem to share a penchant for watches that are slightly off the beaten track, but I was still rather 'alarmed' when he told me his favourite Grand Carrera was the diamond bezel GMT! 


But more about that in another post... :)

Since I bought my Calibre S Aquaracer CAF7013.BA0815 from Watchfinder last month, I've rather grown to like the bracelet. Initially my idea was to get the CAF7013 on the rubber and the CAF1010 on the bracelet (thus giving me the option of switching) but it didn't work out like that and I ended up getting both of them on the bracelets (the bracelets are basically the same save for the Calibre S having polished centre links). It made perfect sense to order the rubber strap, seeing as both those watches could use it and especially with the Summer on the way.


Since I ordered it I went back and forth, wondering which watch to have it put on. The thing was that since getting the CAF7013 I'd grown to like it on the bracelet much more than I thought I would, so in a way I was reluctant to swap it, but then I knew it looked good on the rubber because I had seen it before and obviously the yellow dial goes really well with it. I saw a photo of the Chronotimer on the rubber and it looked good too, but in the end I think it looks better on the Calibre S.


The strap itself is very similar in design to the BT0714 and BT0717 I have for my Formula One watches, but with ends that curve and fit snugly into the lugs of the Aquaracer and fill them completely. I really like the way this strap looks on the Aquaracer, just as I really liked the way the rubber strap fitted on my 2000 Series. Having the fitted ends seems to make a huge difference in the feeling of quality and appearance of the watches and really gives it that luxury, bespoke feel.

The strap is definitely thicker than the slightly flimsy BT0714, but thankfully not as thick as the rather clunky BT0717, while the buckle and pin look pretty standard and possibly the same as one or the other. I didn't actually know the FT8011 would be vanilla scented and to be honest I'm not that keen on it. Liam assured me it could be rescented, which at least gives me hope that it will wear off eventually. I bet every time I open my watch cabinet now I'm going to get a huge waft of vanilla, oh joy...

I don't actually mind vanilla, but it's not a very clear vanilla, it's more a mixture of vanilla and wood (think Body Shop gift set!). I realise this sounds rather dramatic, and honestly it's not that bad really, but you can definitely smell it without holding it up to your nose, I just wish they offered cinnamon as an option instead. Ah well... maybe at Christmas?

The strap is a little stiff so far, and it doesn't seem to curve as well at the lugs as it might, especially considering I've got a pretty big wrist. But it's okay and it looks fantastic and I guess it will soften up with wear. I must say, on the way to Bicester I was still a bit reluctant to swap out the bracelet I've come to love, but once fitted I was glad I chose to put it on the Calibre S, especially with the Summer coming. Besides, in six months I can swap it back and it will be like having a new watch all over again.

Splendid chap that he is, Liam also put my strap into a rather nifty, self sealing TAG Heuer case for me. It's only shiny cardboard, but it will keep all the spring bars and end pieces safely with the main strap for when I need them again and looks much nicer in the cupboard than a plastic bag.

Wednesday, 18 April 2018

SPOTLIGHT ON: TAG Heuer Formula One Chronotimer

CAC111D.BA0850

For some reason I do find the TAG Heuer digital/analogue watches endlessly appealing, it started with the F1 Kirium of course and then I probably would have bought a 2000 Series Multigraph if only it wasn't quite so small in diameter. It's a real shame because I do think that watch is really rather gorgeous, but having sold my own 2000 Series because it was just a shade too small I would really hesitate, but then again, maybe if I saw one...

2000 Series Multigraph

So the next best thing is the CAC111D Formula One which, it must be said, isn't quite the same when it comes to looks... but it is a few millimeters bigger and chunkier so it won't look so damned silly on my big 7.3/4" wrist.

I think it's a watch I could come to love though. It's got a kind of brutish charm to it, where the Multigraph looks svelte, sexy and stylish, the Formula One looks a bit more rustic.. but I still really like that deep black dial. And yeah, dial wise aesthetically it is a lot like my Kirium, albeit with a different movement, but it's also a bit of a bargain on the second hand market. I've seen decent examples going for £400, which seems like a bit of a steal to me.


I'd really love to get myself one, but I'm kinda holding out for a CAV511A Grand Carrera now, but after that, it's something I would definitely consider if the price and condition was right. I must admit, I'm not overly keen on those oversized crown guards, I don't really see why they need to extend all the way to the lugs, when they could have been shorter like on my WAH1110 Formula One, but as long as they are intact, they wouldn't be a deal breaker. Intact is important though, because I remember someone on the Calibre11 forum talking about these and saying they are part of the case, so not available as spare parts. If that's correct, then I think that's a bit poor on TAG's part, because if you put some bits of plastic on the side of a steel case to act as 'bumpers' it's not beyond reason that they would get damaged.

Matter of fact I'm not crazy about the black plastic insert on the other side of the watch either, so maybe talk of getting one of these is a little hasty... I guess I could always try a Multigraph, maybe?


BUYING EXPERIENCE: 20 Cushion Watch Cabinet


I'd been mulling over the idea of buying a watch cabinet for some time, even last year when I 'only' had six watches I was thinking about it, but the selection available was very small. Ideally I wanted black, but I was reluctantly open to a different finish if the cabinet was the right size, the right price and if the door opened the right way.

A 12 cushion cabinet came up on eBay, with black cushions, but the door opened the wrong way, so that killed that idea. And then this one appeared offered by a seller with good feedback. Fortunately there were ten available, so I didn't have to rush my decision.


I mulled it over for a good few weeks I think, and every so often one would sell. There were 37 watchers as well, which didn't help, but I didn't panic. The thing was that I really like having my watches in the boxes they come in, but with eight boxes in my cabinet it was starting to become an issue of space. And while I'm not expecting to buy too many more watches in the immediate future, a wall cabinet was definitely on the cards sooner or later.

So I decided to take the plunge, spurred on by the positive comments left by the other recent buyers and, at £135 it seemed pretty reasonable considering the prices some of these things go for. But, bizarrely, just as I was about to place my order, I noticed a link at the bottom of the page to 'Similar Items'... and saw the exact same item, being offered by the exact same seller for £108. So, right off the bat I saved £27, what a result!

I think I was too late to get the item sent out that day, but they dispatched the day after and it arrived at my work the day after that. Extremely well packaged, and in perfect order, I simply had no complaints whatsoever. Well, maybe just one, the cushions could be a little bigger. I have a 7.3/4" wrist so the watches on fixed bracelets are a little loose, but to be fair they did clearly state the cushions sizes and they are making a one size fits all product. Speaking of which, I did try putting my wife's watches in the cabinet, but her wrist is tiny and it just ended up crushing the cushions and looking really crappy, so I took them out again (let's face it, I'm gonna need those cushions back eventually, right!).

I've actually had the cabinet a couple of weeks, and it wasn't until today that I actually got around to putting it up. I don't know if it was luck, or my exemplary DIY skills, but it went up really, really easily and I must say it looks pretty damn great on the wall.

Sunday, 15 April 2018

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Two New Carreras for the Japanese Boutiques

Mystery Watch Spotted in Japanese Launch Video

A couple of new Japanese Special Editions have popped up on the Calibre 11 forum this week, one of them was first spotted on the wrist of a celebrity (I'm guessing...) in a video of a boutique launch by 'Hubert', but was quickly identified by 'Saibot' from a posting on Instagram.

But first, let's take a look at another new Japanese model...

CAR201D.XXXXXX

This is the Tokyo Boutique Edition, and to all intents and purposes is a 43mm Carrera with the Drive Timer numerals, a ceramic bezel and a titanium case. The unique elements with this watch are of course the red hands and red skeletonised date wheel.


I can't quite decide if I like this or not, I think the red date wheel is a neat idea, and one I could see being used again with different colours for different countries/ambassadors... but I'm just not sure if it looks quite classy enough for quite an expensive watch. I've said before that often red on watches can look a bit tacky if there's too much of it and it's too shiny (like on the hands of the Formula One Senna models) and this coming from someone with a watch with an orange chapter ring... There's something about the particular tone of red TAG seem to use lately that makes it look like plastic, and that's not really a good thing is it?

And now on to the 'Mystery Watch' shown above in that screen grab...

CAR5A8S.EB0136

This one is pretty special and is sure to get you noticed - if that's your thing... this is the 45mm white ceramic bezel Ginza Boutique Edition. Personally I think the dial on this is great, although I'm not at all sure I'd wear it myself, which is just as well because this one costs about £19,300, which is more than a little out of my budget. You could argue that the white hands on this make the watch hard to read, but I'm guessing 'design' overrules 'practicality' on this particular occasion.

This red tourbillon equipped Carrera is clearly no shrinking violet and at 45mm will be impossible to miss on the wrist, but looking at the picture below it's clearer that this model is just a little half-baked. Wouldn't it have been really nice for this watch to have gone the whole hog and utilised a white ceramic case? Or even a case and bracelet? Sure the white leather strap complements the bezel right enough, but that steel case doesn't look quite right to me. Black titanium with a red stripe would have looked great, black ceramic would have worked too, especially since the strap has a black backing. But that steel case... that feels like a great design has been squandered slightly for the sake of a few Yen.


Still, it's great to see TAG releasing these special editions and putting a little more thought into them than just slapping a badge on an existing dial.

https://forums.calibre11.com/threads/2018-carrera-heuer-02t-ginza-edition-car5a8s.74481/

https://forums.calibre11.com/threads/2018-carrera-tokyo-boutique-edition-car201d.74478/

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: New Range of 41mm TAG Heuer Aquaracers

WBD2110         WBD2113         WBD2112         WBD2111

Japanese website Oomiya has presented photos of a new range of 41mm Aquaracers expected to arrive sometime this year. Perhaps most notable among the four is the 41mm version of the 'Explorer II' style white dial Aquaracer.

WBD2111.BA0928 (41MM)           WAY2013.BA0927 (43MM)

With the trend for smaller watches apparently growing (although how much smaller is debatable) we can expect these to sell well, and admittedly the 43mm Aquaracers do wear quite big even for those of us with quite big wrists, so there must be a lot of people who like the Aquaracers who are put off by the bigger sizes.

On the white dial I've noticed a couple of changes from the 43mm to the 41mm, the first is potentially that the bezel numerals are not blacked in, but this could be the camera angle. The other change is clearly that the 'rubber' looking hour markers have been swapped for polished steel ones, which I personally think is a mistake. One of the things I really liked about the 43mm white dial was the black/white contrast and that gave the watch a unique 'tool watch' look and a perfect backdrop for the bright orange second hand. Of course it may be that the general consensus was that the rubber markers were not liked, but I thought they were kinda neat...

As far I can see, nothing has changed dramatically on the other models, save for the bottom line of text on the dial has changed from yellow to white.

http://www.jw-oomiya.co.jp/sihh-basel.blog/archives/13973

Sunday, 8 April 2018

OWNED/DUEL: Aquaracer Calibre S versus Aquaracer Chronotimer


'DTF' on the Calibre 11 forum suggested I do a comparison post on the Chronotimer and the F1 Kirium because they have the same ani/digi movement inside them. I will do that, but it seemed to make more sense to 'duel' these two as they are both recent purchases and both share a similar case and bezel.

PRICE AND AVAILABILITY
If you want a Chronotimer, it's not really a problem, just hit up eBay and you will find several for sale ranging from about £700 on a rubber strap to about £1000 or maybe a bit over. However, pretty much every one that I looked at had a bezel that looked like it had been in a motorbike accident, so I found one in a jewellers and paid £950 for it. The watch is in great condition, but the box is a bit tatty, especially where the previous owner has gouged the leatherette around the cushion with his fingers getting the watch in and out. Also the wallet for the booklet is a bit tatty too and every time I open the box pieces of black debris litter my desk, but the booklet is perfect and the package included the warranty card, a service card from TAG, and I also got a twelve month warranty from the jeweller.


The Calibre S wasn't a massive problem to find, but they definitely seem a bit harder to pin down than the Chronotimer and in my experience the black dial is a lot easier to find than the yellow which was the one my heart was set on (there's also a blue one but I didn't come across that one at all). I could only find two on eBay when I was looking, and again both looked as if they'd lived hard lives, one was from Japan and had a lump out of the top lug (£1700) and the other one I think was about £1250, but again with a very scratched bezel. This time I plumped for Watchfinder and offered them £1150 (it was listed at £1275, but there was a 'Make Us an Offer' thing going on at the time) and collected it from their Bond Street(ish) store a few days later. Because this one had been bought from Bicester Village only a few year ago it came with all the right bits and bobs and in a pristine brown-style TAG Heuer box. My only gripe really was that Watchfinder had stuck a sticker on the outer box and it left a nasty sticky mess on the surface which was not easy to remove.

DESIGN
I think most people would say the Calibre S is a nicer looking watch than the Chronotimer, although perhaps not everyone would choose the yellow dial. At first glance it appears that the dial is yellow with a slightly more orangey centre section, but on closer inspection it becomes apparent that the dial is actually uniformly yellow with a series or orange/red rings in the middle. I wasn't too sure about that to start with, I would maybe have preferred the dial to just have been yellow, and maybe a bit of a stronger yellow at that, but as I've worn the watch I've got used to it and now I like it the way it is. I think the black elements of the dial and the black inner edge of the bezel contrast superbly with the bright dial and when this watch is on a black rubber strap the effect is even more pronounced, but more on that later.


Amusingly, if you look back on the blog, you will find that I actually reviewed the Chronotimer about a year ago and though I said generally good things about it I was quite outspoken about the chrome edging around the lower digital display. But perspectives change and I started finding myself looking at those Breitling Aerospaces, which inevitably led back to the Chronotimer... and here we are. I must say, in photographs that silver edging looks a lot thicker than it really is, and it really depends on how the light hits it as to how much you can see it and how thick it looks.

The Chronotimer is quite a shiny watch, the hands and indices are very reflective, which isn't always great for legibility actually, but overall it's a pleasing design. I don't want to talk about the Kirium too much here because I do want to post about that separately, but because I own both it's hard to ignore the obvious similarities and their respective strengths and weaknesses.


I'm sure the Chronotimer won't appeal to everyone, the digital displays cut into the dial are probably going to be a bit Marmite and the curved upper one even more so than the lower oblong window. I must admit the aforementioned Breitling Aerospaces look a bit neater, but they are also quite a lot more expensive, and TAG were clearly working with the movement they already had (the ETA E20.321) which dictated the window layout. I think the yellow dial versions look a lot more messy than the black dial, which is one of the reasons why I opted for the yellow Calibre S, and oddly I've seen pictures of the yellow dial versions with and without the reflective silver surround on the bottom display. I don't know whether that's because it fell off, someone took it off, or because TAG made some with and some without... but to be honest on the yellow dial it kinda looks better without it. (Now I come to look for a picture, of course, I can't find one without it, which rather suggests it was just one watch on eBay, which I suppose might even have been a fake).

The bezel is the same on both watches, and what I didn't actually realize until I bought these watches is that the black section of the bezel is fixed and only the silver outer part revolves. It's quite a neat design as it allows you separate the 'bezel' minutes from the 'chronograph' minutes (let's gloss over the fact that the Chronotimer's chronograph is 'digital' only shall we... ahem). But anyway, it's kinda neat and very unexpected when you turn the bezel for the first time and realize they are two separate sections.

Both Aquaracers shown on my substantial 7.3/4" wrist.

The bracelets and clasps are essentially pretty similar, except that the Calibre S has polished centre links whereas the Chronotimer's are brushed. I'm guessing TAG thought the Chronotimer was shiny enough without adding any more bling on the bracelet. I think I need a half link taking out of the Chronotimer, which is possibly why it's not as comfortable as the Calibre S, the clasp seems to dig into my wrist more when I'm sitting at a desk which could be because it's not sitting snugly. The CAF7013 is very comfortable on the wrist, not as comfortable as the Kirium perhaps - which is definitely my most comfortable bracelet - but definitely a good wearer and a lot less cumbersome than my Aquagraph (which is definitely not a watch for everyone, not least because it weighs as much as a small car).


On the back the Calibre S has a flat back plate whereas the Chronotimer has the circles cut into it, I'm not sure if they have some sort of purpose or whether it's just an aesthetic thing, but it certainly looks a bit more interesting. Perhaps they are designed to let the skin breathe, in much the same way some rubber straps have indents on the back? I'm not really sure...

FUNCTIONS AND USABILITY 
The Chronotimer (like the F1 Kirium of course) is blessed with a plethora of functions, including a second time zone, 1/100th chronograph, digital time, countdown alarm, daily alarm, date and calendar. By contrast the Calibre S has just a 1/100th chronograph and a date (which is displayed using the sub-dials at the bottom when the chronograph is not in use). As far as usability goes, both are a bit of a faff to set up and you definitely need a booklet or a handy YouTube video to help you out, but once set up, the Calibre S only really has the chronograph to play with and that's fairly easy. All you have to do is press the crown in and the hour, minute and second hands reset to 12, while the sub-dials both reset to zero. Pressing the top pusher starts the chronograph (indicated by the second hand) and pressing it again stops it. Once the chronograph is halted, the two sub-dial indicators come into play to indicate the 10ths and 100ths of a second. A push on the bottom pusher resets the chronograph to 12, and finally, pushing the crown in again restores the hands to the correct time. But the really clever bit is that you can push the crown in while the chronograph is functioning and switch between chrono-time and actual time.

The Chronotimer has many more gadgets to play with, which are accessed by turning the crown and then using the pushers to start, stop and set. But some of them are really fiddly and indeed when I got my watch the daily alarm was set on and it took me quite a while to figure out how to turn it off, even with the booklet in front of me. It clearly told me how to turn it on if it had been turned off, but it didn't actually say how it could be turned off. I eventually pressed the button which was supposed to turn it on and realised it turned it on and off. Hardly rocket science, but the booklet should really have been clearer.

The Chronograph is easier to access and functions as you would expect, but most of the other functions I wouldn't really use, I mean I've had my Kirium for thirteen years and I've barely used them on that - I clearly haven't used the daily alarm for one thing!

So is the Chronotimer a waste then? Not at all, if this was your main watch and you were the sort of person who did use it's functions I'm sure you would pick up the necessary skills to operate it without resorting to the manual, but for me it isn't and I won't, but that doesn't mean I don't appreciate it's capabilities. As always with me, I buy watches that I like the 'look-of', rather than the functions... so while I'll probably never really use a chronograph, I like the look of sub-dials so I buy chronographs. And I like the look of the Chronotimer, so I bought a Chronotimer.

CAF7013 Calibre S                      CAF1010 Chronotimer

Lume on both watches is pretty good, slightly better on the Calibre S I'd say, but then the Chronotimer does have a back light for digital functions, so overall you'd have to say the Chronotimer wins there (although only the Calibre S can do it's party trick in the dark of course).

CONCLUSION
I genuinely like both watches and have no regrets about buying them, but if I could only keep one then it would definitely be the Calibre S. The chrono-function is so unspeakably cool that you can't help pressing the crown just to see the hands moving to 12 and back again, it's surely the ultimate in fiddle factor and engages you with the watch hugely. Indeed, so taken am I with the Calibre S movement that I even started looking at Calibre S Link models, and I never look at Links....

I think the Chronotimer is a lot of watch for £950, but I don't know if I would have paid much more for it. By contrast I think I would have been willing to pay a fair bit more for the Calibre S if I'd had to. I don't know what their respective original RRPs were, but I'm guessing the Calibre S was probably higher, and rightly so. After all, the Chronotimer, while I do enjoy it's company, is basically a bit of a compromise, an existing movement taken from the F1 Kirium and cut into the dial of an Aquaracer (in a far less stylish manner than in it's original setting it must be said), while the Calibre S was a new design from the ground up and really wows the owner.

If like me, the Breitling Aerospaces give you a warm fuzzy feeling, but you don't have £3000 to tickle that particular fancy, then maybe the Chronotimer is a relatively affordable route to something similar. If, on the other hand, you want something outrageously different and technically advanced, then the Calibre S is surely the way to go. To be honest I can't really believe they've discontinued using the movement because as far as I can tell, no one, least of all TAG themselves, have got anything like it in the range anymore and that's such a shame.

CAF1010.FT8011                             CAF7013.FT8011

When I originally bought my Chronotimer, I figured if I could find the Calibre S on the rubber strap then I would have the best of both worlds, with two watches able to share the bracelet and the rubber (I didn't realize that the bracelets were slightly different at the time, but they are still interchangeable). However, of course, I ended up getting both on the bracelets, so I've ordered an FT8011 rubber strap and am expecting it to arrive in a few weeks. Originally my intention was to put it on the Calibre S, mainly because it gives more of that black/yellow contrast, and because I wasn't convinced about the yellow dial/steel bracelet look. But since I've owned this, I've grown to like that combination, and having seen some photos of the Chronotimer on the rubber, I have to say it looks pretty good. Still it's nice to have the option and it will be fun to chop and change...

Saturday, 7 April 2018

ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Aquaracer GMT Calibre 7 Pepsi Bezel

WAY201F.BA0927

Ernest Jones, Sheffield / 7th April 2018

Eight months since my first sighting and I still hadn't tried one of these one, at least until today. After I tried on the new Monaco Gulf 50th Anniversary I thought I might as well give one of these a go, and to be honest I'm still a bit undecided about it.

The bezel looks good, albeit being an aluminium insert rather than ceramic, how long it will remain looking good is open to speculation. The cyclops however, is a disaster. I don't know if it's because the date wheel is black with white text, but the date appears as nothing but a big blurry mess to me. I know I'm not a fan of the old cyclops, but this one seems particularly bad.

The watch has a steel back, which is pretty standard for the 300M Aquaracers, and the bracelet and clasp seem perfectly 'adequate', but no great improvement over, for example, the bracelet and clasp on my Calibre-S CAF7013. The dial is nice enough too, but somehow I couldn't really get excited about it and to be honest I'd have rather put this bracelet on the new Khaki quartz and been done with it. It's a decent size (43mm) and looks better on the wrist than it does in the window, but then all the 43mm Aquaracers look over-sized in the window for some reason.

While I've always been a sucker for colour on watches, I've never been one to get over-excited about the whole Pepsi bezel thing and this hasn't really changed my mind. It will be interesting to eventually see the new 'Batman' bezel Carrera GMT, I have a feeling that one is going to look better than this, just as I always thought the Rolex Batman looked better than the Pepsi GMT.

When I previously wrote about this watch last July, I said the price in the window was £2350, I don't know if that was a mistake or what, but the price is now £2200, which seems pretty fair overall for a Calibre 7 GMT in a 43mm Aquaracer case on a bracelet. I guess if you are a fan of the Pepsi bezel then this is an affordable route to ownership, but with the new Tudor Black Bay GMT coming on to the market at about £2500, this one certainly has it's work cut out for it in the coming months.

ON THE WRIST: Heuer Monaco 'Gulf' 50th Anniversary Edition

CAW211R.FC6401

Beaverbrooks, Sheffield / 7th April 2018

I must admit to being more than a little surprised seeing this in the window today, and pleasantly surprised at that. It must be said that I'm not the biggest fan of the 'classic' Monaco, I've tried on several and I've liked them, right up until I got them on my wrist... but this one I actually liked even on the wrist. I don't know if it's the classic Gulf dial or what, but somehow this one just 'works' in a way that so many others just haven't, at least for me...

The first thing I noticed about this one was that the background is actually a very dark blue, whereas I had kind of assumed it was going to be black. Not only that but it's kind of metallic too so it gives off a cool sunburst effect when the light hits it at the right angle. The second thing I noticed was that the sub-dials aren't white, in fact they look like silver to me - though I'm not 100% sure about that. They look fine anyway, and indeed, despite much debate about the colour scheme in general (and the red accents in particular) I have to say it looks great when you actually see it close up.

Flip the watch over and you've got your regular display back, although because this one was covered in cling film and labels I couldn't see very much at all, which was a shame, but I don't think there's anything under there that I haven't seen before to be honest.

The strap is actually a lot darker than I expected as well, so at first glance you might even think it was black, and the orange stitching definitely gives it a certain something too, though I wasn't overly sold on the clasp with it's huge Heuer branding. The watch sat very nicely on my 7.3/4" wrist, looking just about right for a retro piece, and not at all feminine (unlike that overly-shiny, dainty looking quartz model I tried on in Sheffield last time!) and money no object if I was going to choose a (non 24 series) Monaco, this would probably be the one.

I did notice though that as people on the Calibre 11 forum have pointed out, the strap is maybe a little on the short side. The watch fitted me pretty much straight off, but I did observe that there wasn't much strap leftover, so if you've got an 8" wrist you might have a problem and need a longer strap for this one.

I must admit I'm slightly mystified as to why this is exactly the same price as the plain blue version, or at least it was in Beaverbrooks today. I guess some people would still choose the plain blue dial, but to me it's a no-brainer that this would be the one to pick up. That said, the price in question is a not inconsiderable £4750, and for not much more than that one could pick up a Calibre 36 Monaco 24 from the outlet, which to me seems like a much better deal (particularly as they sell on the pre-owned market for £6500). Even so, I'm sure there will be plenty of punters lining up for this new incarnation of the classic Gulf striped Monaco, and rightly so.