Friday, 30 April 2021
Thursday, 29 April 2021
FEATURE: Watches & Wonders 2021 (Part 2: Rolex, Patek Philippe and TAG Heuer)
Continuing our somewhat 'irreverent' look at this years 'Watches and Wonders' watch fair. For Part One, please click the link below:
ROB: Testing, testing... is this thing on?
JIM: Yes! So when are we going to talk about this whole Watches & Wonders flop? Lets start off with two simple questions that might not be so easy to answer. At this point we are two days into this online fair and I would like to know, first of all what is Watches & Wonders and secondly, how do I attend the show? All I have seen is a flood of press releases in social media and some watch sites and after two days I still have not figured out how to attend the show or what this digital fair actually is.
ROB: Umm, well I guess... this is a 'fair' but only in the sense of creating an 'event' for the press to get behind. I guess you attend the 'show' by visiting the brand's websites at the appropriate time - like I assume the other brands had countdowns like TH did. I suppose the idea is that they can start to create a 'brand' and then roll it out properly once the pandemic is over and people can travel, but yeah I agree it's not really anything more than a somewhat co-ordinated mess at this point, and it seems like everyone was releasing at once whereas it might have been smarter to to stagger the releases more over the days - starting with Rolex, I would say and then maybe let that die down a bit before everyone else got their moment. I don't know... how many brands are involved?
JIM: I think there are something like 40 brands participating. I've seen comments on Youtube and Instagram where many are confused about the whole setup. I think you are right that each brand communicates directly with their own releases but could Watches & Wonders at least have provided a schedule on their website so people can know when each brand will present their stuff? I do wonder how beneficial this really is for many of these manufacturers. Wouldn't it be better for a company like Oris to do their own press release in calmer times when no one else is releasing things? I think that would generate more attention and marketing for Oris, now they just become a quick note in the feed of constant press releases.
ROB: Well that was always true of Baselworld wasn't it? The doors open and everyone ran straight past every other booth to get to the Rolex stand.... 'Oh my God what have Rolex released' (usually not much) and then they go to Omega and then Patek and AP and eventually TAG Heuer, meanwhile Oris are sitting their kicking their heels waiting patiently for their turn....
JIM: Yes I know, I just thought they would be smarter now when they do it digitally and enable for more brands to reach a gigantic audience in a completely different way. But counting on the Swiss to be smart and think outside the box is probably not realistic. Maybe in 10 years they will have adopted to a good online format?
ROB: Ha, yes.... okay, let's begin!
ROB: Aha, now this is what I really miss about Baselworld, the Rolex fanboys having a meltdown because 'The Crown' does something they don't like! Hilarious...
JIM: I listened to the new Hodinkee radio episode about Rolex and Tudor. Seriously, Rolex creates zero emotion in my heart. I could see myself happily rocking that two tone Explorer 36 though. It would match my sleazy personality perfectly!
ROB: Plus it's 36mm again so it won't look too manly on your girly wrist... Hehe, this model is not popular with the Rolex fanboys because.... 'when I'm potholing the last thing I need is a soft metal on my bezel...' yeah because you are going to wear your two tone Explorer potholing.
JIM: Hodinkee snobs said something like "Rolex is forcing us to buy precious metals. You know the steel is unobtainable and the two tone is not much more expensive. People have no choice but to buy two tone". They are so deep into the Rolex 'hype-obsession' that its ridiculous! I agree with you that the two tone Explorer is excellent but probably for different reasons. I don't like it cause it pisses Rolex fanboys off, I like it cause I'm generally a sucker for two tone and I think Rolex is a manufacturer that does two tone very well. This 36 mm two tone Explorer is a perfect "classy older but not old gentleman in his best years" kind of watch. Would go perfect with a nice Mercedes with plenty of yummy wooden interior.
ROB: Patek are hilarious, they announce the death of the 5711 (because they are don't want it to become their 'Royal Oak') then announce a green dial which will only be made for one year... and I wonder, if you were already on the waiting list for the blue (which you won't now be getting) do you get a shot at the green one? I very much doubt it, these will be for special customers only!
JIM: Hehe yes! They just keep ass-raping their customers and the customers react by wanting to pay more! Is it a sort of Stockholm syndrome for rich watch snobs?
ROB: Must be.... I still don't really get why the Nautilus is so popular. It's an odd shape, it's got that nasty lump on the left hand side. Why does it trade over list? Why do so many people want it? I don't get it. Is it just because it's a Patek and it's a sports watch? Is it just the Submariner for people who find Rolex a bit gauche?
JIM: I think its a mix of things. Its a Patek for people who aren't really "Patek people". When I think about Patek Philippe I imagine sophisticated people with class. The Nautilus is an exception, with that one I am thinking about either fake rich Instagram posers who got a bigger mortgage to afford buying one or new money people with zero class who just want it cause its hard to get and expensive. Hodinkee probably helped both these groups of people grow into the scale we see today.
ROB: I saw a video yesterday where Eric (Watch Eric) said confidently that these will trade over $200,000... I don't know what the list price is, but I'm guessing nowhere near that. Crazy!
ROB: So, finally.... I've already posted my thoughts on the Aquaracer - at the time of launch I had very mixed feelings about the new models, but you seemed a lot more upbeat, yes?
JIM: If 'upbeat' means negative then yes, I am very upbeat. No, but I think I'm just like you, mixed feelings and sometimes I think I like it and sometimes I hate it. But one thing I'm still certain about.. the old generation is so much better in every way! My main concern with the new one is that they didn't fix the movement. At least they could've gone for a COSC version of the Sellita. And I want someone to confirm that the crown tube has been improved!
ROB: What about the six o clock bubble? I've seen quite a few negative comments on YouTube about the new look...
JIM: Oh yes I really hate that one. But I don't waste too much energy on it since I've heard rumours about an upcoming 40mm version which probably wont have any cyclops. Otherwise I think I would've bashed it a lot more!
ROB: What about the 'Tribute to 844', did that creamy fauxtina got you a little hot under the collar?
JIM: Yes yes, you know me too well. The 844 tribute is really nice, I wouldn't mind rocking that bad boy! And of course you said in your review that this was the best Aquaracer ever!
ROB: I really did NOT! I said it was the best looking of the eight new 2021 Aquaracers, hardly the same thing!
JIM: Stop putting your words in my mouth, I am certain this is your all time favorite Aquaracer
ROB: Well, it isn't... I think the jury is still very much 'out' on this new Aquaracer, I just hope that when we finally get to see it in the stores it confounds expectations; maybe we just have to get used to it? I mean the older we get the harder it is to accept change, especially if the thing that's changing was aesthetically pleasing before. Like... Meg Ryan for instance.
JIM: Who?
ROB: Nevermind.... before your time.
Well that concludes our look at the inaugural Watches and Wonders... let's hope next year it can be a proper fair that people can visit and report from. I guess we'll have to wait and see... same time next year (presumably).
Wednesday, 28 April 2021
Tuesday, 27 April 2021
FEATURE: Watches & Wonders 2021 (Part 1: IWC, Tudor and Breitling)
Remember how last year the watch companies all said "Watch shows are old hat, we don't need a watch show anymore... everything is virtual and online. We have social media, we don't need a huge, expensive show to sell our products. We will launch everything on our own terms via the internet cos all the kids are on there and screw those Baselworld guys."
Well, it didn't take above a couple of months for talk of a new show to start and this year we got the first episode of 'Watches and Wonders'. Due to the continuing pandemic of course this year's 'show' was virtual, but the intention is to make it a physical show as soon as it is feasible to do so. So maybe watch shows aren't 'old hat' after all...? Quelle surprise! After all, rich people can't show up to a virtual show in their Ferraris / helicopters and schmooze with their equally rich buddies can they?
It was dumb to think that a luxury product can exist solely online; who really want's to buy their Lamborghini or their Richard Mille from a website? But let's be honest it was more about cutting out the Baselworld people and taking back control of the fair than ever taking the show to a virtual place, that was just a temporary and convenient argument for the mutiny.
So along with our Swedish friend Jim Dollares, I thought it would be good to at least take a (somewhat irreverent it must be said) look at some of the more interesting things to come out of the inaugural Watches and Wonders show.. so let's do that.
We started on a wrong foot as Jim's first reaction was not overly positive:
JIM: Man this whole digital watch fair seems to be just a big mess of 'everyone releasing a ton of stuff at the same time'. Is there even a proper way to "attend" the fair, I couldn't even find a schedule on their website?
ROB: Yes, that is a major failing isn't it. Surely there should have been some kind of order of business where the brands all got together and organised themselves so they weren't all dumping their new pieces at once. Typical, even when they take control of the 'show' they still can't get it right.... and Breitling didn't even pay to be a part of it, they just released their new watches at the same time and the press just 'assumed' it was part of the show - hahahahaha. Good on them!
ROB: Okay let's start with this IWC Top Gun Mojave Desert 'limited production' do-da. I'm not really a fan of IWC at the best of times, but these are quite eye catching. Apparently 'limited production' varies from limited edition in that there is no set number of watches in total, but they will only make a certain number of pieces each year...
JIM: Oh yes you know I do love IWC and they just keep getting better and better. This year's homerun, this far, for IWC in my eyes is not the Mojave editions though, it is the smaller standard pilot chronograph with blue sunburst and 41 mm case. I have always loved the pilot chrono but thought it was too big. Now it is something I think I could actually wear and enjoy!
ROB: That watch is very nice, it reminds me of those 'timeless' looking Calibre 16 Carreras that I rave about occasionally... and which would be a lot more affordable, obviously.
JIM: Yes yes that's true but, with the IWC you get a completely different level of refinement. An IWC movement that will give such pleasure and satisfaction in soul and mind when you operate it. A pilot from IWC has long been on my wish list and contrary to some other brands they just keep improving and do things that suit my preferences.
ROB: What do you think of that sandy finish on the Mojave? I'm really not sure at all.... seems like something you would get tired of eventually and wish it was just black.
JIM: I think it is very cool but I agree, this feels like something aimed towards people who already have a handful of Big Pilots and looking to spend between £15-35k on a watch they can wear a couple of times a year to look cool and enjoy something fun. Probably not something anyone buys as his first big pilot, or first IWC for that matter.
ROB: Oh this Tudor looks cool, I really like the green and gold combination. Kinda like an upmarket version of the Harrods Black Bay.
JIM: Yes solid gold case with a green dial is a superb combo. One thing I dislike about all Rolex and Tudor marketing though is how falsely they mislead you by showing their products without a ton of crystal reflections. All these release photos and renders look as if Tudor uses anti-reflective coating but in reality the crystal works as a mirror of constant reflections. Did you see the silver case BB58? Is silver a good material for a case? Won't it scratch like a motherf*cker?
ROB: Maybe... won't it tarnish as well? All my wife's silver jewellery gets that brown tint to it that you have to clean off with a special cloth, lovely!
JIM: Oh yes! Didn't even think of that! Well I guess you can do as old ladies do with their silverware, putting it in a bowl with water and salt or something and soon it looks brand new again. Seems perfect for a watch. But I think that the online community will soon learn that this is charming, similar to that it is apparently charming when your bronze watch turns into something that looks like you found it in a dumpster.
ROB: Oh apparently Tudor have discovered a way to stop it turning brown.... but then I just saw Tim Mosso questioning that in a WatchBox video, saying no one has managed to do that in hundreds of years, so I guess we'll see!
JIM: Isn't it strange that Tudor releases a solid gold diver sold for £12k? The distinction between Tudor and Rolex gets more blurry. Sure, a solid gold diver from Rolex is obviously more expensive but it gets a bit weird to say that Tudor is affordable. Everything comes down to perspective I suppose. Do you really like the gold and green? I am not a fan actually. I have two major concerns with it. First of all, a gold watch should be polished. I think this one from Tudor has no polished sides or anything on the case. Secondly the caseback gives me nightmares. A display caseback on a watch that has what might be one of the ugliest watch movements developed in modern times. I mean look at it. Would you pay £12k for that cheap looking thing?
ROB: No, of course not... seems like everyone is picking up on the fact that the display caseback is simply a cheap option since sapphire is a lot cheaper than gold. I guess it's a bronze/green Autavia for me then, not that I was ever going to go off brand of course.
JIM: One thing I really like from Tudor this year is, obviously, the Black Bay 36 with a stunning sunburst silver dial. The only thing I am negotiating with myself right now though is if it is really worth driving the 250 km, one way, to the closest AD to see it in person.
ROB: But this is clearly meant for women, no?
JIM: Perfect for me and my girly wrist then. Are you a fan of the Black Bay 36 line?
ROB: Ummm, I'd never really thought about it... you know I don't really take much notice of anything that isn't TAG Heuer. So is it just about the silver dial?
JIM: Noooo its a lot more than just that. I tried this watch both in 36 and 41, I think it was in 2019 and since then the 36 has been in the back of my mind. I remember that the applied indices looked perfect on a dial that is very well balanced. The case looked great, bracelet wore nicely. The whole experience of putting that watch on wrist was a pleasure. You know when you try a watch and it just clicks. It felt luxurious but in a discrete way. I remember thinking something like "wow this is a premium watch, I cant believe it doesn't cost more". And now Tudor made it even more perfect with a silver dial!
ROB: Well now that you've told me they make it in 41mm it makes more sense. But wait, the Black Bay 36 is 36mm, the Black Bay 41 is 41mm but the Black Bay 58 is 39mm or 41mm but looks completely different? That makes a whole lot of sense doesn't it?
JIM: No no, the Black Bay 58 is only available in 39 mm. The Black Bay is 41. And the Black Bay 41 is also 41 mm. But the Black Bay in bronze is 43. You are right, the naming of these models doesn't make full sense. Many watch brands do have a nice way of aiming to confuse their customers though, why should Tudor be any different?
ROB: So why didn't they call the Black Bay 58 the Black Bay 39? Oh, never mind...
ROB: Now, I know you have this kinda weird love/hate relationship with Breitling and I'm sorry but I feel like we have to talk about this.... thing. I can't quite believe this exists. What the hell kind of colour is that green? It's absolutely dreadful. I know people will say 'Oh yes, they made this in 1942' and it was the colour of XYZ Bomber Squadron and all that, but a hideous colour is a hideous colour. BMW and Mercedes made beige cars in the 80s but you don't see them bringing them out again as 'heritage' pieces do you? God, how do Breitling make something as cool as the Endurance Pro and then dump this on us? Seriously...
JIM: Dude, I love the comparison with beige cars in the 80's, spot on! This shade of green ain't my cup of tea at all... it is... I don't know, difficult to even find a word that describes it. I don't think it is obviously ugly nor something I hate. It just doesn't do anything for me. Is there anything in the world we can think of that has this odd colour? I cant think of anything!
ROB: Me neither, let's sleep on it and see if anything comes to mind. Do you want to talk about Panerai?
JIM: No.
ROB: Me neither...
PART 2 of Watches and Wonders 2021 will follow on Thursday...
Monday, 26 April 2021
Sunday, 25 April 2021
FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02 'Green Fume Dial' Limited Edition
CBL2116.FC6497
This supposed 'green dial' craze has been around for a couple of years now, without ever really catching fire. Without expending too much brain power I can think of six green dial TAG Heuers that have emerged over the last 3-4 years and now we have another one to add to that list: the CBL2116 green fume dial Monaco Heuer 02. It's a beauty isn't it? Perhaps my favourite Monaco yet, and possibly even better in the green dial stakes than the original steel bezel/green dial Aquaracer of 2019!
This one has apparently been launched to coincide with this year's 'Monaco Grand Prix Historique', but unlike last year's dramatic silver/red piece this one isn't 'intrinsically' tied to that particular event (so no quirky racing car on the dial or engraving on the back this time around). It is, however, a limited edition of 500 pieces... which I think is rather a shame.
I must admit I am growing a little weary of the whole 'limited edition' thing, I get that it creates a buzz for the brand and creates a 'FOMO' panic for the potential customer, and if it sells the product then I guess that's my problem not TAG Heuer's. But, it would be nice to be able to ponder a while and think 'I could save up for this' over a year or two, but sadly that's not the case.
Again...
I don't know about you but I'm not really in a position to drop £5500 on a watch just like that. I guess that's my problem (again), maybe I should have tried harder in school or something... but ultimately it leaves a slightly bitter taste in my mouth, knowing that by the time I decide to take the plunge they will probably all be gone. Of course this isn't something that's exclusive to TAG Heuer, most watch companies have caught onto this idea of manufacturing 'buying pressure', but even so... I find it a bit irritating, especially when it's clearly something that's going to sell well.
Or maybe not, maybe TAG Heuer are right to limit this to 500 pieces. After all, the Monaco market is a pretty conservative one, generally speaking it's any colour as long as it's blue (bow down to the God of square watches: Steve McQueen and say three 'Hail Le Mans'). Sure they went cray-cray with the 50th anniversary pieces (red, green... concrete!!!) but those were even more fuelled by FOMO and the flippers had a field day.
I guess time will tell, but either way from these pictures this looks gorgeous. It's funny, a few days ago I thought to myself 'I don't think I will ever buy a Monaco, I don't really think they are my kind of thing', but seeing this kinda makes me wonder. I've long had a mild 'thing' for the limited edition PVD Monaco with green details made for the Singapore Grand Prix, but this one looks even nicer.
Are green dials the new blue though? Or is it a passing fad that will eventually fizzle out without every really blowing up? I guess we'll get some clarity on that when we see how the new Patek Philippe 5711 olive dial impacts the market. My guess is prices will be absolutely obscene for that, but will it drag the whole green dial market up, or will it be a special case? I have my doubts.
My feeling is that green dials as a whole will never hit the mark like blue did. The problem for me is that pretty much any shade of blue is acceptable, but green is a different kettle of fish. There's a lot of greens that don't look quite right on a watch; for example the new titanium Aquaracer or that God-awful Breitling Heritage chronograph that came out last week!
From my perspective though, this one is a winner and apparently it looks even better in the metal. For a moment I wondered why they didn't put it on a very dark green strap instead of black, but then thinking about it with this kind of dial where it fades out to black that would probably look odd and of course trying to colour-match green would be a bit of a nightmare.
No I think TAG Heuer have got this just about bang on, presenting us with a new twist on the 'modern' style of the Heuer 02 type Monaco. Some may grumble (see C.O.C.O. comments below...) but at the end of the day if you want 'vintage retro chic' you can still get the Heuer branded Calibre 11. Personally I like that they are dragging the Monaco into the 21st Century with models like this (since we no longer have the Monaco 24 option) and I feel sure if they had made this dial with a Calibre 11 movement it wouldn't have sold as well because people who want Calibre 11 pretty much always want blue (unless they already have at least one blue one).
Yeah, I get that the radial hour markers are kinda sucky and I wouldn't object to those being replaced with the old-style flat versions (or perhaps something else - but not octagonal lume pots, obviously), and the case is a bit thick, but again that applies to all the Heuer 02 Monacos. I just think this kind of dial would look somewhat odd with the old school Monaco, in fact this might be the perfect Monaco for that blingy new bracelet they brought out last year...
But of course my opinion is only half the story (well 65% max) so now it's time to find out what the C.O.C.O. has to say about this one, take it away chaps...
CBL2116.FC6497 Green Dial Monaco Heuer 02: 7.1 / 10
"This is another testament that TAG Heuer makes truly stunning dials especially on this green emerald shade. TH have done it well with the red (50th/Calibre11) and the blue (H02) dials showing off that shiny metallic sunburst hue which plays with the light on different angles. Definitely a must see in person."
"Nice dial. It's a green Monaco, so not much more to say really. I'd still have the blue McQueen."
"I think the green looks great and I really like the recessed subdials. But the H02 Monacos still really turn me off with the radial markers and vestigial running seconds. I personally think the Monaco looks fairly un-balanced with the crown on the right, too."
"8.5/10: The dial is fantastic! I was tempted to rank it higher, just because of the dial, but if I compare it to other Monaco special editions, it's not quite as compelling for me. For example, if I wanted a green Monaco, I'd probably choose the 70s Monaco 50th Anniversary over this one. Also, I like last years red H02 Monaco Historique better. And if one doesn't own a Monaco, the C11 Blue McQueen is still the one to get."
"6 for me...I'm over Green Dials."
"This is much less hideous than most recent releases, but also has nothing really special that says 'buy me' "
"Mmm, 6/10, would have preferred an even green across the dial or paler green centre than present darkening outward towards dark green rather than black, nice sub dials at 3+9 but not liking the seconds unit, crown on the left would have been a bonus."
"The green seems to be close to the recent Certina 60th Anniversary DS Concept Special Edition. I had to resist pretty much when this one came out to save watch funds. Still very tempting. In other words, I like that green. For the Monaco, I'm not so sure. The 50th anniversary has the ultimate green of course in my view! I give it a good 7/10."
"4/10 from me. The dial colour, the running seconds, the movement and the size (thickness) ruins it for me. Otherwise it would be a great Monaco!"
"At first glance, I would give it a 6.5/10. Reading David’s (Calibre11) report I hold out hope I would like it more in the metal but in terms of wow factor and “would I buy it” it rates not that highly. I wanted to give it 6 and thought that too low, 7 to high so copped out and went in the middle. 6.5."
"Probably controversial considering the green love across the industry but - taking the green aside - which is stunning, even though I’m not a green watch person - this is a fairly lazy LE IMO. Considering the critique of the recent Carrera SE, this has even less changes etc."
"The green dial is nice, but I don’t like the alligator strap (I would prefer it with the rally strap as in the Calibre 11 review), and I also prefer the Monaco with crown on the left side, so it’s a 7/10 for me."
"9/10. Love it. What can i say ? I love green dial and in my opinion they have done it really well this time."
"8.5 for me (would be 9.0 if it had two registers and 9.5 if it also had Calibre 11)"
"I'll score 7. It uses this nowadays trend of green, and has a dial with gradation, but I think it lacks the retro feel of Monaco. Also, I think it would have been better to have a green alligator strap. I feel Khaki one is better."
"TAG Heuer have nailed it with the dial. It stands apart from the on trend green used by many other manufacturers. The fade to black in the corners has been executed really well along with sub dials. It hasn't been paired with a green strap either which is a great decision. 9/10"
ADDENDUM: It seems this watch was phenomenally popular and all 500 pieces were sold within the space of a few days. So unfortunately, it doesn't look like seeing one will be a possibility for those of us who were either too slow or too underfunded...
Saturday, 24 April 2021
Friday, 23 April 2021
FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5 'Tribute to 844' Limited Edition
WBP208C.FT6201
When I first heard that TAG Heuer were intending to release an Aquaracer with the dreaded 'fauxtina' I was not overly impressed. First of all, I've never been a fan of artificially aged lume, but secondly, and more importantly, the Aquaracer range isn't even twenty years old yet - so to 'pretend' that this is some sort of 'heritage' piece is a bit of a joke. Fair enough, TAG Heuer have been fairly specific about what this watch is and what it isn't, but even so their explanations seem a little bit 'contrived'.
I've never really understood the concept that the Aquaracer is the descendent of the legendary 1000 Series. It literally evolved from the 2000 Series, in fact when the first Aquaracer was released (the one with the round bezel and lume dots, ironically) it was initially called the 2000 Aquaracer, just as the Aquagraph was initially called the 2000 Aquagraph. But then the 2000 name was dropped and the 2000 Aquaracer became, well.... just the Aquaracer. Along the way it also adopted the dodecagonal bezel from the 3000 Series, which is perhaps the single most recognisable feature of the modern Aquaracer.
I mean, I get that the 1000 Series was the original Heuer diver and the Aquaracer is the current TAG Heuer diver, but beyond that it's a little bit of a leap for me.
But leaving all this aside, I was still not keen on the idea of a 'retro-heritage' Aquaracer... at least until launch day, when I was slightly pained to admit that it was the best looking of the 2021 models. Ouch - how did that happen? I don't even like the heritage divers that everyone else raves about (Blancpain 50 Fathoms, Longines Legend Diver, etc) but this one really works!
Side by side with the 844 you can see how they've taken the details, like the bezel edge, and applied it to the new model. I still don't like the octagonal lume pots, though I'm reserving final judgment on those until I can actually get to see a new Aquaracer in the flesh, but now that it's been a couple of weeks since the big launch I do think the new Aquaracer is starting to gel.
The round cyclops at six is still the major bone of contention, but I think I'm even starting to come to terms with that - especially as the 'lump' is now underneath the glass; I think if it was on top it could have been a dealbreaker for me and many others. I'm not quite so sure about the octagonal holes in the tropic strap, I think maybe that is verging on kitsch... but I guess it's a bit of fun; I wonder how many of the 844 people who get to own one will switch that strap out for something more traditional though?
Despite the limited numbers available the watch is still available on the UK website, and that is perhaps due to one or both of the following factors: 1) the standard stainless steel models are £2500, whereas the titanium models (of which this is one) attract a £1000 premium, and in this case an £1100 premium, and 2) who exactly is this model aimed at?
While this design looks great, it does seem a bit 'redumbnant'. If you are into the 'classic/retro' look then surely the ultra-modern Aquaracer is not the model for you, and if you like the dodecagonal bezel and the ultra bright lume of the Aquaracer, then surely the retro treatment is probably not going to be your thing either? Yes, I did say that this watch seems to be the best looking of the new Aquaracers, but that is perhaps despite the fauxtina and retro details. Pretty much any watch looks killer in black and red and this one has definite echoes of the Monza 40th Anniversary (the other retro watch that I actually like, and also one with a racing strap curiously enough). Give this one standard lume and switch out the 24 hour numbers for some other red flashes and I'm sure I'd like this one just as much.
So, since you can buy an original 844 for less than £3600 clearly the target market for this watch is not someone who 'wants an original but can't afford it', but rather someone who wants a new watch but likes a superficially retro vibe. Again, I do think this is the best looking 2021 Aquaracer we've seen so far, but I do wonder how many people will actually put their hands in their pockets for it? Initially I thought 844 pieces was far too few, but now I'm starting to wonder if they haven't pitched it just right.
I can imagine in a few years that this, like the Carrera 160 Silver dial, will become one of those sought after watches even though it didn't sell out like hot cakes on release and I guess at least the rumour that the 'Tribute to 844' was to have the Heuer badge on the dial turned out to be a lot of nonsense; I really do think that would have been a step too far for everyone, so let's be thankful for common sense prevailing.
Hopefully in the not too distant future I will be able to visit a TAG Heuer boutique and see some of the newer pieces in the flesh. It's been a long time since my visit to the Sheffield store (I think it was September 2020) and there's been a good few releases since then - not least the Bamford Aquaracer, which I still haven't managed to get a proper look at. This one isn't even due until next September and I guess there's a fair chance it will sell out before it actually hits the stores, so this could be another one of those elusive limited editions that only their owners ever actually get to see. I hope not, it would be nice to be able to see one, just once before they completely disappear into people's collections.
Thursday, 22 April 2021
Wednesday, 21 April 2021
ON THE WRIST: Heuer Autavia Heuer 02 'Harrods Limited Edition' Chronograph
CBE2116.BA0687
TAG Heuer Boutique / Bicester Village, 19th April 2021
I was never really a fan of the original black dial Autavia Heuer 02, it was way too retro for me and I didn't care for the bracelet or the tan coloured strap it came on. I did warm up to the JH85 Autavia with the silver dial and I appreciated the changes they'd made to the bezel text, but it wasn't until the release of the limited edition 'Calibre 11' Autavia that I found an Autavia Heuer 02 I could really get behind. But of course there were only 100 of those and I missed my chance and now they go for two or three times their original value, so, much like the original Alec Monopoly Formula 1 it ain't never going to happen!
Maybe you are in the same boat? Well, if so, there is an alternative in the 150 piece limited edition made for Harrods of London and which can currently be found at the TAG Heuer Outlet at Bicester Village. Granted this one doesn't feature the blue touches or the nicer bezel from the JH85 which made the Calibre 11 model the best Autavia Heuer 02 by a country mile, but it does give you a somewhat similar overall aesthetic without the crippling price tag!
Of course, I've never actually seen a Calibre 11 Autavia (how many of us actually have?) so it was nice to try this on and get a feel for what might have been, and at the same time experience what is actually a very nice watch in its own right. The white dial somehow assuages my anti-retro jitters, and, despite the fact that this one features the original large text bezel, I still really liked it. Even the dreaded 'fauxtina' didn't set my teeth on edge, and that's a first!
The Autavia Heuer 02 is quite a thick watch, but it's not by any means 'unwearable', and even though it is 42mm it doesn't seem unduly large (for reference I was wearing a 39mm 3000 Series when I visited the store). I must admit that in the flesh the bracelet was nicer than I remembered it, but I definitely still preferred the black leather strap - another point of similarity with that glorious Calibre 11 Limited Edition of course.
Bless good old Watchfinder for always providing a 'head-on' shot of almost any watch I care to write about, but really their photograph doesn't do this watch any justice at all, it is so much nicer than it appears at the top of this post. I hope my photographs give you a slightly better impression... but I have to say I don't think they do it much justice either; I did my best but the lights in the boutique are a bit of a nightmare and the main objective is trying to avoid reflections on the crystal.
When I wrote about this previously my take on it was that as a Harrods Limited Edition it paled into insignificance against the green bezel Tudor Black Bay. I still stand by that comment, the Black Bay is the perfect Harrods watch with that precise shade of green wrapped around the dial, but taken on its own merits and without that caveat, this one is definitely a winner in my book - and a nicer watch than the Black Bay to boot!
Not sure exactly how many Bicester have of these available, but given there were only 150 made altogether it's probably going to be no more than a few. If this one sounds like the one for you why not give the store a call on (01869) 249008 to check stock and don't forget you don't have to live nearby since orders can be shipped anywhere within the UK. And if you are a fan of the original black dial version, worry not because they have those too!
CBE2116: Harrods Limited Edition of 150 pieces
On the bracelet: LIST PRICE - £4350 BICESTER PRICE - £3500
On the strap: LIST PRICE - £4250 BICESTER PRICE - £3400
CBE2110: Original Black Dial Edition
On the bracelet: LIST PRICE - £4395 BICESTER PRICE - £3550
On the strap: LIST PRICE - £4295 BICESTER PRICE - £3500
Tuesday, 20 April 2021
Monday, 19 April 2021
HISTORY: TAG Heuer 1500 Series (1990-1997)
Perhaps surprisingly described by TAG Heuer themselves as 'the basic sportswatch', when you think about it... it actually kind of makes sense. There are no chronographs for a start and nor are there any 'automatic' models. Dial colours are extremely limited too, with just five options available throughout the range: white, black, blue and granite, plus one 'full-lume' piece which was rather annoyingly only offered as a midsize option!
The range is actually smaller than it first appears, largely because the vast majority of models were given two numbers (pre and post 1992) and when you take those duplications out of the equation suddenly you realise there really aren't all that many 1500s to look at.
So this post will be shorter than some, but hopefully educationally worthwhile - it certainly opened my eyes to what the 1500 series has to offer.
1991 CATALOGUE
The 1500 Series arrives in 1990 and first appears in the 1991catalogue, frustratingly just one year before TAG Heuer decided to renumber every watch in their range. Somewhat similarly to the 4000 Series, the range arrives en-masse, with 20 models shown in the catalogue.
Since every watch has a post 1992 number, I am using that as the main number. I will also include a chart at the bottom of the page cross-referencing everything.
For your reference, the second number in the post 1992 model number indicates the size: 1 = full size, 2 = mid size and 4 = ladies. However, I believe the GMT full size was 40mm, whereas regular models were 37mm and midsize 35mm. Ladies were approximately 27mm. Presumably then '3' would have related to the old '15' size that TAG Heuer were using in the late 1980s?
WD1221.BC0633 (955.713/633/C): Midsize, granite dial, two tone bezel/case on brown leather
WD1411.BA0614 (959.708/614/M): Ladies, granite dial, steel bezel/case on a bracelet
WD1211.BA0610 (959.713/610/M): Midsize, granite dial, steel bezel/case on a bracelet
WD1111.BA0606 (959.706/606/M): Full size, granite dial, steel bezel/case on a bracelet
WD1111.BC0620 (959.706/620/C): Full size, granite dial, steel bezel/case on black leather
WD1211.BC0630 (959.713/630/C): Mid size, granite dial, steel bezel/case on black leather
WD1120.BB0607 (925.206/607/M): Full size, black dial. two tone bezel/case and bracelet
WD1220.BB0611 (925.213/611/M): Mid size, black dial, two tone bezel/case and bracelet
WD1420.BB0615 (925.208/615/M): Ladies, black dial, two tone bezel/case and bracelet
WD1120.BC0623 (925.206/623/C): Full size, black dial, two tone bezel on brown leather
WD1220.BC0633 (925.213/633/C): Mid size, black dial, two tone bezel on brown leather
WD1110.BC0620 (929.206/620/C): Full size, black dial, steel bezel on black leather
WD1212.BA0610 (929.113/610/M): Mid size, lume dial, steel bezel/case and bracelet
WD1110.BA0606 (929.206/606/M): Full size, black dial, steel bezel/case and bracelet
WD1210.BA0610 (929.213/610/M): Mid size, black dial, steel bezel/case and bracelet
WD1410.BA0614 (929.208/614/M): Ladies, black dial, steel bezel/case and bracelet
WD1221.BB0611 (955.713/611/M): Mid size, granite dial, two tone bezel and bracelet
WD1121.BB0607 (955.706/607/M): Full size, granite dial, two tone bezel and bracelet
WD1421.BB0615 (955.708/615/M): Ladies, white dial, two tone bezel and bracelet
WD1121.BC0623 (955.706/623/C): Full size, white dial, two tone bezel on brown leather
1992-1993 SELECTION
The 1992/3 selection catalogue added a couple of new pieces to the range.
WS1110.BC0620 (159.306/620/C): Full size, black dial GMT, steel bezel on black leather
WS1120.BB0607 (155.706/607/M): Full size, white dial GMT, two tone bezel and bracelet
1995-1996 CATALOGUE
Hard to believe, but the 1500 Series is already heading for the out-door. As is often the case, TAG Heuer decide to give it a boost in the arm to keep it ticking over for a few more years.
WD1210.BC0630: (929.213/630/C): Mid size, black dial, steel bezel/case on black leather
WD1213.BA0610: Mid size, white dial, steel/black bezel on a bracelet
WD1413.BC0640: Ladies, white dial, steel/black bezel on a bracelet
WD1222.BB0611: Mid size, white dial, two tone bezel and bracelet
WD1422.BC0643: Ladies, white dial, two tone bezel on brown leather
WD1423.BB0615: Ladies, blue dial, two tone bezel and bracelet
WD1223.BC0633: Mid size, blue dial, two tone bezel on brown leather
1996 CATALOGUE
Just one new piece added to the range in this catalogue.
WD1214.BA0610: Mid size, blue dial, steel bezel/case and bracelet
1997 CATALOGUE
The last outing for the 1500 Series, no new models were added in this catalogue
NON CATALOGUE MODELS
These are the 1500 Series pieces I have managed to find that didn't appear in any of the catalogues above.
WS1120.BC0623 (155.706/623/C): Full size, white dial GMT, gold bezel on brown leather
WS1111.BA0606 (159.006/606/M): Full size, white dial GMT, steel bezel on a bracelet
WS1110.BA0606 (159.306/606/M): Full size, black dial GMT, steel bezel and bracelet
WS1111.BC0620 (159.006/620/C): Full size, white dial GMT, steel bezel on black leather
WD1214.BA0607: Mid size, blue dial, steel bezel on a bracelet with polished midlinks
WD1422.BB0615: Ladies, white dial, two tone bezel and bracelet
WD1414.BA0614: Ladies, blue dial, steel bezel and bracelet
WD1410: Ladies, black 'Mickey Mouse' dial, black bezel, steel case and bracelet
WD1221.BB0611DIS: Men's, white 'Mickey Mouse' dial, two tone bezel, case and bracelet
WD1421.BB0615DIS: Ladies, white 'Mickey Mouse' dial, two tone bezel, case and bracelet
The 1500 Series is a bit of an odd one really and for some reason it seems rather biased towards the mid-sized models. Not only is the (always desirable) full-lume dial only available in a 35mm case, but the blue dials/bezels are also only available in 35 and 27mm too.
For a full size chap like me the GMT is the best option at 40mm (actually I already own a 159.006 on a bracelet) but those aside you only really have a choice of four different watches, albeit with each of those having either bracelets or leather straps.
As always, writing this post made think 'Oh I bet I could pick up a granite dial 37mm for a few hundred quid no bother', but looking on eBay all the 1500s that aren't knackered seem to be up for more than you would expect - especially for a 'basic' sportswatch...
Next time we will be looking at the long and extensive history of the S/EL.
To visit the TAG Heuer History Page Menu, click HERE