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Sunday, 3 February 2019

ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16

CBK2112.BA0715

Goldsmiths / Sheffield, 26th January 2019

Meadowhall has not one, but two Goldsmiths stores, a larger one on the upper floor which sells the higher end brands like Rolex and Breitling and a slightly smaller one downstairs which sells the less expensive brands like Tissot and Tudor. Understandably, when Goldsmiths opened their TAG Heuer boutique right next door to their main store they stopped selling TAG in there, and moved them downstairs. 

So it was in the downstairs store that I tried on this beautiful new Carrera chronograph (assisted by the very friendly and professional Laura). This is the new incarnation of the Calibre 1887 Carrera and while I know some people are disappointed that they've put the Calibre 16 movement in there instead, I have to say from an aesthetic perspective, they've got it bang on! They had the black and the blue dial in the window and this was the obvious choice, the black is nice, but this has the WOW! factor going on in spades!


Like the Calibre 1887 before it, the Calibre 16 has the chronograph subdials configured in a 6/9/12 format, which I don't mind at all. I know the Heuer 02 is the big thing now, particularly because of it's 3/6/9 layout which provides greater symmetry on the dial, but for me this layout works great as long as they don't try to force too much else in there. In my opinion the problems only really arise when the watch includes a day function as well as a date, which leaves nowhere for the TAG Heuer logo to go and it gets squeezed up into the 2 position.

Undoubtedly the blue dial isn't quite as flexible as the black, but it is by far the more striking. It's a nice darker tone so it won't look too out of place with your suit, but it really comes alive when the light hits it just right. The dial also features polished markers which are tipped with small oblongs of lume, and quite surprisingly for such a dressy piece it also features well lumed hands.


The case is 41mm in diamater which is the perfect size for this design I feel, and around the back there's a sapphire caseback giving you a nice view of the Calibre 16 movement. I quite like the pushers on this, I find them preferable to the 'mushroom' style pushers found on the Calibre 1887 Carreras I think, although to be fair I never found them particularly offensive. This Carrera also features a water resistance rating of 100M, which means you can swim in it on the surface (no diving at all), but why you'd want to I have no idea...

Sporting a Calibre 16, the watch is not particularly slender, but it's not unpleasantly thick either. I'm guessing it's around the 12-13mm mark and should work with all but the tightest cuffs. The bracelet very much reminds me of the one I had on my recently departed Grand Carrera, right down to the clasp. There's no fine adjustment on this style of clasp though, which is a little disappointing, but it does look neat and stylish and as you'd expect on a piece of this quality the clasp is activated by two push buttons.

Price for the CBK2112 on the bracelet is £3500, which seems reasonable for a stunning looking Carrera like this. I must admit I'd really love one of these for my collection, but I fear it may be a little too dressy for me. I can't fault it though really, they've done a lovely job and it makes the perfect alternative for people who perhaps like the new Link chronograph but find the bracelet a bit too much...?

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