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Wednesday, 29 July 2020

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Aquaracer 'Tortoiseshell' Bezel Models

WAY201N.FT6177

Way back in 2019, someone leaked a selection of photos from Baselworld including an image of a blue dial Aquaracer with a bezel that looked like it was made of 'tiger's eye' or something similar. I thought this looked really interesting, although to be honest I didn't much like that it was shown on a blue NATO! Nevertheless I waited patiently for the watch to launch, but nothing happened. Christmas came and went and I thought, okay so surely then it will be shown properly at Baselworld 2020 and then it will come out. Right?

In the meantime nearly all the other models shown in the leaked pictures emerged, including the wave dial ladies Aquaracer, the purple textured-dial ladies Carrera and the green and grey men's Aquaracer, but as for the unusual Aquaracer went, not a sausage. I did find the watch on a website called 'Swiss Watches Direct' which is notorious for putting watches up for sale that aren't yet available, they even quoted a part number for it (WAY101K) which made total sense as the green/grey Aquaracer eventually came out as a WAY101L. They claimed delivery in 21 days, but I'm guessing any orders would have remained unfulfilled and searching elsewhere led to the usual websites (Uhrinstinkt, Uhrenlounge, Hodinky.Heureka) showing the same render and either 'out of stock', 'not yet available' or somewhat amusingly 'shipping to commence July / August 2019' messages.

WAY201P.FT6178

Then Baselworld 2020 fell apart and TAG Heuer started to launch their models through alternative channels, but still no sign of the elusive WAY101K Aquaracer... until now! Well, kind of. While not quite the much awaited launch of the WAY101K Aquaracer, this week we had word of not one, but two new Aquaracers with 'tortoiseshell' resin dials. Which I'm guessing means that either the WAY101K isn't coming out at all now, or that it might come out later - who knows?

So what's changed? Well, I guess the biggest change is that the model has been switched from running a quartz movement to an automatic Calibre 5 movement instead. It's still mounted in the expected 43mm case, but instead of being presented on a blue NATO strap, now it comes on a rather cool looking rubber strap which is moulded to look like alligator leather. A happy compromise perhaps for those who find the idea of a 300M dive watch on a water-perishable strap repugnant? (I'm looking at you WAY201M*)


That aside, the red/brown bezel now surrounds a grooved black dial, while the original blue dial now has it's own unique blue resin bezel. This makes it look rather like those forged carbon Aquaracers that came out last year (yep, the ones with the faux carbon dials) and comes on a blue version of the same rubber 'alligator' strap. I must admit I'm struggling to pick a favourite between these two, I thought the black dial was the obvious winner, but the more I look at the blue one, the more I like it. 

Is it too much blue though? I can't help thinking it might have been a little better if they'd put it on the black rubber strap... 


Onto the issue of pricing, and well... obviously switching it from a quartz piece to an automatic has altered that fairly significantly. As yet these haven't made it onto the UK TAG Heuer website, but Ace Jewellers are selling them at 2550Euro, which translates to about £2300 - which is about what I would expect a Calibre 5 Aquaracer to sell for here in the UK.

As for the 'resin' bezels... as yet we don't really have any information about them, least of all how resilient they are to everyday use. But given the testing facilities at TAG Heuer's disposal in their La Chaux de Fonds factory, we must presume they are reasonably hardy - perhaps the delay has been down to problems with manufacturing them to the required standard?

I honestly think both these watches look great, but I am a little disappointed that they've switched them from quartz to automatic movements. I think at £1400 or so these would have been a no brainer, but at £2300 it's a little harder for me to justify the expense. I am super happy they ditched the blue NATO strap though and these new rubber straps look fantastic. I wonder if the black one would fit on my WAY208C Aquaracer? Now that would look pretty damn amazing!


*I find it slightly disturbing how many TAG Heuer part numbers I'm starting to accurately remember, that's twice today I've pulled numbers out of the air and been spot on both times!

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