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Wednesday, 27 April 2022

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Aquaracer 'Superdiver' 1000M Special Edition

 
WBP5A8A.BF0619

It's been a long, long time since TAG Heuer offered a watch with a 1000M water resistance rating. In fact the previous 1000M contender was the legendary 'Super Professional', a model carried over from the Heuer days and eventually retired in the 1990s. In between of course we have had several 500M watches including some very stylish and surprisingly svelte (WAK series) Aquaracers, some rather more chunky (WAJ series) Aquaracers and of course the positively tank-like 'Aquagraph' (originally the '2000 Aquagraph'): a Calibre 60 powered chronograph that had the rare distinction of being able to operate underwater thanks to the rubber shrouded pushers. 

Of course there's a case to be made that all these extreme dive watches are a bit pointless since most real divers wouldn't dream of taking a phenomenally expensive Swiss-made wristwatch diving when there's a perfectly good dive computer available, but that's not really the point is it? After all, how many Speedmaster owners are planning to visit the moon?



Anyway, I can't talk... my second ever TAG Heuer was the aforementioned Aquagraph and I'm not ashamed to say that I've never even so much as washed the dishes wearing it. Truth be told I didn't really have much of an idea of exactly what I was buying at the time, it was just by far the coolest looking watch in the Bicester Village outlet that day and it made everything else look bland and uninteresting in comparison. Despite the fact that it was 50% more than my budget, I knew that if I bought anything else I would be dissatisfied and after a short debate with myself I dug deeper into the pockets and never looked back. 

I'd like to be able to say the same about this one, but for me it's not quite hitting the mark. I'm not at all keen on the hour hand and somehow that orange bezel quadrant doesn't excite me like it really ought to. I can't quite put my finger on what it is that's not working for me, but there's definitely something that's not quite gelling. Maybe when I see it in the metal those extra two millimetres (the Superdiver is 45mm in diameter versus the 43mm of the regular Men's version) will imbue this with a sense of being something 'extra', because as it is it does kinda look like a regular Aquaracer wearing a flashy coat.


But while the Superdiver is big, when compared to other big brands' recent 1000M watches this is actually a little thinner (15.7mm) and with that part-orange (lumed) bezel insert and unusual, Panarai-esque crown guard this one certainly has some personality... but yeah, I still think in all honesty I would 100% rather pick up a minty (TAG Heuer branded) 'Super Professional' for a quarter of the price.

Ah yes, the price. I've often wondered how much TAG Heuer would charge for the Aquagraph were it to be produced today and I've usually concluded somewhere considerably north of £4000. This one, being both 1000M (rather than 500M) and featuring a titanium case would surely be more, and actually comes in at £5500. Not cheap by any means, but perhaps not completely over the top all things considered.


Intriguingly the crown guard moves with the crown, as you unscrew the crown-guard the protector rides out with it, which I'm sure is no mean feat, especially as it must not compromise the watch's water resistance. Really not sure how they do that, but it's a neat trick. I'm still not sure about it though, I really feel like that thing would jab you pretty hard in the dorsal, especially if like me you wear your watch right up against your left hand.

Big selling point for this one is the Kenissi movement, which is certainly a step up from the Sellita movements that TAG Heuer normally use. It would be nice to think this is the first step towards the brand moving away from Sellita, but if they do I really hope that it doesn't mean the prices go up as well. Right now TAG are basically overcharging for mediocre movements, upgrading the movements should be about 'adding value' and creating respect in the watch community and not an excuse to pump the customer even harder. But we'll see... 


It's strange, I've often thought TAG Heuer really needed to have a proper hardcore dive watch in their line-up, but now that they have I'm afraid I feel rather ambivalent about it. Hopefully it won't be too long until it starts appearing in the TAG Heuer boutiques (I'm assuming this is unlikely to make it to your regular high street jewellers...?) and maybe in person it will make more of an impression on me.

In the meantime, let's find out what the esteemed 'Council of Considered Opinion' think of this latest addition to the TAG Heuer range...




WBP5A8A.BF0619: 7.6/10

5/10. "Technically very good, and I like the design, but they had to justify the rather steep price tag by making it 45mm?"

6/10. "Aquaracer 1000m Pro Diver - I guess you need to be into deep dive watches to get excited about this. There is nothing wrong with it but nothing captivating either. It scores just above average in recognition of the new movement."

8/10. "A very interesting watch! I like the concept, I like the overall look, and the new COSC caliber TH30-00 movement is the icing on the cake. It's a big and bold chunky watch, but with a name like SUPERDIVER, it should be."

7.5/10. "Looks cool, I like the use of a different movement."

7/10. "A good effort. Big and bulky but for a dive watch that’s ok. Not for my wrist. I Like the orange bezel, hands and overall look. Price a little high, hopefully the movement will prove to be outstanding."

5/10. "Nice but over the top for me and too expensive as a toy."

8.5/10. "Good move in the right direction. Best Aquaracer from the current line. Proven movement from Kenissi. May not look as good in the metal, as it does in the publicity videos."

8/10. "Very very cool, great movement, plus minus three sec per day. Would score higher if it weren't for the size and the rather extreme price."

8/10. "Love the colours and the loom in the marketing shots, I am a sucker for lume!"

8/10. "Really like it but the £££ is in dangerously compatible territory."

7/10. "It's nice to see a different take on the design, and the Kenissi movement is an excellent upgrade over the previous Sellita. I'm looking forward to seeing all Aquaracers updated, and hope it doesn't carry a large price premium as the current Sellita models are far overpriced."

7.5/10. "This is genuinely interesting, but SO expensive."

9/10. "It looks great, my favourite Aquaracer together with the 844 tribute. Price is not so nice, and for this reason I can’t give it 10/10."

7/10. "Finally going a 'almost in house movement' and great too see. Unfortunately design wise seems an Aquaracer/ Panerai & Citizen (Grand Touring) hybrid which isn't for me."

9/10. "Personally I love this concept. Harking back to the days of the Super Professional. A real tool watch. For me big is beautiful, so can’t wait to see this in the metal. Partial to a splash of Orange also."

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