FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Carrera 39mm Calibre TH20-00 Chronographs

 

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I almost feel like I should preface this post by saying that when you read my comments you should probably bear in mind that this new line of 39mm Carreras is at least partially aimed at the type of customer who bought the so called 'Glassbox' vintage style Carreras of the last few years (most, if not all, of which were limited editions...) and as such this model isn't really aimed at me.

But having said that, it feels like TAG Heuer have tried their best to keep enough DNA from the aforementioned 'Glassbox' Carreras to satisfy the vintage Heuer fans, while giving these a veneer of modernity, hopefully sufficient that it might increase the spectrum of appeal to people who didn't lust after or perhaps never even saw the previous 39mm Carreras. 

Over the last few years the 'Glassbox' re-rereleases have found their sweet spot in the market. Realising they were never going to sell enough to become regular models in the line-up due to their smaller case size (despite what the watch community tell you, Mr-Joe-Public-TAG-Heuer-Customer very much does like shiny, bold 43/44mm watches) and vintage aesthetic, TAG Heuer had limited their production to the mid-hundreds and managed to successfully sell most of them all in a few days - largely thanks to flippers and FOMO (though surprisingly the recent 'Panda' was a bit sluggish in comparison to previous watches, so maybe it had reached saturation point).

But now the 'Glassbox' is done and in its place we have this new range of Carreras with the code 'CBS' which are already hitting the high street, indeed Maxine at the Meadowhall branch of TAG Heuer sent me this photo just a few days ago. And if you're thinking it looks big for a 39mm that's probably because the photo was taken on her wrist... (thanks Maxine).

Now I've seen quite a lot of photographs of this black model over the last few days and the impression I've got is that this isn't the easiest watch in the world to photograph. Aesthetically this doesn't hit the mark for me anyway, but I always try to be objective in my scoring so my number could be anywhere between 4.5 and 7.5 depending on which photograph I am looking at, so clearly these need to be seen in the flesh before making any damning statements.

But this, as I am always telling the COCO members who moan that they haven't seen enough 'videos/photos' or gained real life experience, is supposed to be about 'First Impressions', and my 'first impression' is that I like the blue one a lot better than the black one.

I get that the black one is trying to reference the Heuer Dato 45 with it's 12 o'clock date, but if you are trying to appeal to 'regular Joes' rather than the 'watch community' I think maybe putting it at the '6' would have been a better choice. I think people selling these will soon tire of being asked if the blue comes with the date at '12' and the black with the date at '6'...

And then there's the elephant in the room, that bezel. When I first clapped eyes on the new curved bezel I knew it reminded me of something but I couldn't work out what it was, until someone on the THF Forum pointed out it was reminiscent of the current Autavia.... and the Connected. Yikes! There's also something slightly 'Ressencey' about this watch, and I've heard other people say that too, so it's not just me that sees it.

But again, I don't think this looks so bad on the blue model because it looks less fusty and vintage inspired (which by the way, is obviously a positive for the COCO council so expect good scores for the black one here), but that one has its own Achilles heel... that running seconds counter. Oh sweet Jesus, what were they thinking? I know people have been moaning about the crosshair running seconds for years, but I never found it particularly offensive, this just looks damned strange.

I'd still take the blue over the reverse panda any day of the week though, if only because it isn't handicapped by the application of 'fauxtina' on the hands. Indeed, if I could only change one thing about the black one it would be to give it white lume. Yes the bezel looks a bit odd and the date is in the 'wrong' place, but even if those things were corrected the 'fauxtina' would still kill it for me.

In case you are wondering what the Calibre TH20-00 is, as far as I can ascertain it is an improved version of TAG Heuer's in house 'Heuer 02' movement which now has a bi-directional winding rotor. I'm not sure what else has changed as TAG Heuer seem to be being a bit vague about it - nothing new there of course. I don't quite know why they have felt the need to change the nomenclature of their movements, I think perhaps it has to do with the fact that like Tudor (for example) they are starting to utilise Kenissi movements in their (more expensive) watches and they want to give the impression that everything is in-house... hmm.

Anyway, as I said at the start of this piece, these really aren't aimed at me personally. Too small and too... old fashioned, for want of a better word. So let's turn them over to the people they truly are aimed at, the small and old-fashioned Council of Considered Opinion.

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Black: 6.5/10. Blue: 7/10. I think it's great that TH has added a 39mm Carrera to line-up. I don't mind the more modern styling either. But a few details I'm not so keen on - the faux lume and 12 o'clock date on the reverse panda, the 6 o'clock running seconds the brushed case sides, and yes, that strange curvy bezel under the crystal that spoils the Carrera's clean lines. Definitely moving in the right direction, but I can't help be a little disappointed.

Black: 9/10 Cool ! Lots of people will comments about the 12 o'clock date window but hey it's been there before if you check the history. Blue: 9/10 Definitely will be more popular unless the end result surprised me. Both are probably one of coolest released of Tag Heuer in recent years in my personal opinion

Black: 8.5/10. Blue dial 8/10. I’m not sure how I feel about the curved inner scale in the dial. Some shots it looks good but then others no no much. Fortunately I will be able to see it in an AD and then update my score end of year. So glad to see it as a release and not another limited edition. That also was a plus in its scoring.

Black: 6/10 (I'm not sure about the 12 o'clock date window). Blue: 7/10. There is nothing fundamentally wrong with these except the glassbox, which I have never liked. I think the dials looks a bit busy too. 

Black: 8/10 I like the new dial design and think this is the best modern take on the classic Carrera DNA yet. Blue: 5/10 The stupid half-ass running seconds is really starting to truly ruin designs now. The watch look unfinished with the way the date window eats so far into the track. Either go full 3-register, or be brave and go 2-register - either option would have been amazing, and instead the chosen result is just so-so.

Black: 6/10 Because of the 12 o'clock date I give the black version a 6. Blue: 8.6/10 The blue one is gorgeous! with the date on the right spot.

Black: 7/10. Blue: 5.5/10. I like the black one more because of the balanced subdials. I am unsure about the solution for the rehaut and glassbox, but at this time, I don’t like it very much. I prefer the strap on the black one, too.

Black: 7/10 While it's a little busy for its own good, the black version works better, mainly because of the use of two dial colors and the date at 12h. Blue: 6/10 In my opinion, TAG Heuer tried to achieve too many things at once with these new chronos. Accordingly, the blue one's lack of hierarchical & structuring design elements is a bit too obvious.

Black: 8/10 I wish the subdials were white. Wish the strap had texture. Blue: 7/10 Nice colour. Wish it had no seconds subdial markers.

Black: 6/10. Blue: 7/10. Really not a fan of 12 o’clock date. Designs don’t overly excite me looking at the pics, but not rubbish either.

Black: 6.5/10. Blue: 6.5/10. Ultimately they appear much better than the renders suggested. I’ll hold my final judgement until I see them in the metal. The dials are too busy but overall they seem ok. I think I’m gonna like the quirky curved dial. Did we decide on a name for that yet? The pushers and crown are pretty awful. I would score both 6,5 for now. A more minimalist dial would get these above 7.

Blue: 7.5/10. Black 7.5/10. Nice, these are something I would consider buying.

Black: 8/10 Never been a fan of the date at 12, otherwise a solid looking watch. Blue: 7/10 Again a solid watch but the running seconds at 6 is not something that rings my bell, albeit this is better executed than the current 02 Monaco's.

Black: 7.5/10. Blue: 7/10. A surprising new take on the Carrera, mostly modern but with a nice blend of retro. I think these will be very popular among fans of the brand. There's a lot to like. However, the curved inner bezel/chapter ring treatment doesn't impress me. Nevertheless, the Reverse Panda is my favorite TAG Heuer release of Watches & Wonders.

Black: 7/10. Blue: 6.5/10. Would have been one point higher if not for the raised tachy bezel.

Black: 8/10. Blue: 7/10. From what I have seen in a video, I think this panda reverse watch is not photogenic and that it will be better IRL, although I don't quite like that internal bezel in Connected E4 (42mm) style, and I also don't like that the subdials are silver and not white, and neither is that protruding outer ring of the subdials, inherited from the Carrera Sport and Elegant (and which I don't like on those either). I like the choice of the strap, finally abandoning the crocodiles in a Carrera!

Despite the points that I would like more in another way, it is a nice watch.

Black: 4.5/10 Do not like the date window at 12 at all and why do they have to continue to put faux lume on the hands! Dial and sub dials are OK but that's about it for me. Blue: 5.5/10 Not sure how I feel about the domed crystal and bezel, I just don't think it works. The dial is nice but nothing special.

Black: 8/10 TAG Heuer has been reinventing and pushing boundaries with the latest Carrera. I think this design is really nice, especially with the 39mm and glassbox improvements. Would have been great if this is a true B&W reverse panda. Blue: 7.5/10 Still a lot to like but a Blue Carrera is not just my cup of tea. Aquaracer and Monaco takes the blue dial spots for me.