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Monday, 19 February 2024

HISTORY: TAG Heuer Carrera Part Three (2017-2019)

 

With Jean Claude Biver now in charge TAG Heuer continued to re-invent itself and to reposition itself as an 'affordable luxury' brand. This era coincides with my growing interest in watches and the start of this blog (in October 2016), so as you can imagine this era is quite a big deal for me as it marks the time when I was first visiting watch stores locally (and in London) to get first hand experience of as much as I possibly could. 

I know a lot of people disliked the 'Biver' era of TAG Heuer and especially the skeletons, fearing that Jean Claude was trying to turn TAG Heuer into a poor man's Hublot; but I am emphatically not one of them. Apart from anything else, I miss the days when a skeleton dial Carrera cost £4000 - I recall at the time Jean Claude promoting the Heuer 01 and telling us all that the new watch was an £8000 watch selling at £4000, and given the price of the more elevated Grand Carreras it kind of replaced he wasn't far off the mark. 

Fun fact, I used to have a huge ginger tom called 'Mr Biver'. 😼


2017-2018 CATALOGUE

In the Jean Claude Biver era the choice of watches on offer was truly astonishing, there are thirty five new Carreras in this catalogue alone, and in 2018-2019 the brand was even more productive. 


CAR2A1J.FC6400: 45mm, skel dial, cer bezel, PVD steel case, lthr/rubber strap (S/E)
CAR2A1J.FC6416: 45mm, skel dial, cer bezel, PVD steel case, lthr/rubber strap (S/E)
CAR2A1K.BA0703: 45mm, blue ceramic bezel, steel case and bracelet (S/E)


CAR2A1L.BA0688: 45mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, PVD steel case and bracelet (S/E)
CAR2A1N.FT6100: 45mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, PVD steel case lthr/rub strap (S/E)
CAR2A5B.FT6044: 45mm, skeleton dial, rose gold bezel/lugs, PVD steel case, rubber strap


CAR2A5C.FT6125:45mm, skel dial, cer bezel, gold lugs, PVD ti case, lthr/rub strap 
CAR2A91.BH0742: 45mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, case and bracelet
CAR2A91.FT6071: 45mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel and case, rubber strap


CAR2A91.FT6121: 45mm, skeleton dial, black ceramic bezel/case, leather/rubber strap
CAR201P.BA0766: 43mm, skeleton dial, diamond bezel, steel case and bracelet 
CAR201T.BA0766: 43mm, skeleton dial, blue cer bezel, steel case and bracelet


CAR201T.FC6406: 43mm, skeleton dial, blue cer bezel, steel case, leather/rubber strap
CAR201U.BA0766: 43mm, skeleton dial, brown cer bezel, steel case and bracelet
CAR201U.FC6405: 43mm, skeleton dial, brown cer bezel, steel case, brown lthr/rub strap


CAR201V.BA0766: 43mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, steel case and bracelet
CAR2090.BH0729: 43mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, case and bracelet
CAR2090.FT6088: 43mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel and case, rubber strap


CAR2090.FT6124: 43mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel and case, leather/rubber strap
CAR5A1Z.BA0510: 45mm, skeleton dial, dia/steel bezel/case and bracelet (Tourbillon)
CAR5A81.FC6377: 45mm, skel dial, dia/wht gold bezel, PVD ti case, lthr/rub stap (Tourbillon)


CAR5A90.BH0742: 45mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, case and bracelet (Tourbillon)
CAR5A90.FC6415: 45mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel/case, lthr/rub strap (Tourbillon)
CAR5A90.FT6121: 45mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel/case, lthr/rub strap (Tourbillon)


CV2A1AB.FC6379: 43mm, black dial, steel bezel/case, black leather strap
CV2A1AC.BA0738: 43mm, silver dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet
CV2A84.FC6394: 43mm, black dial, ceramic bezel, PVD titanium case, leather strap


WAR2411.BA0776: 28mm, white MOP dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet
WBG1310.BA0758: 36mm, blue dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet
WBG1310.FT6115: 36mm, blue dial, steel bezel/case, blue fabric strap


WBG1311.FT6116: 36mm, black dial, steel bezel/case, brown leather strap
WBG1312.FC6412: 36mm, white MOP dial, steel bezel/case, white leather strap
WBG1313.FT6117: 36mm, black dial, PVD steel bezel/case, black leather strap


WBG1315.BA0758: 36mm, white MOP dial, steel/dia bezel, steel case and bracelet
WBG1351.FC6418: 36mm, black dial, gold case and lugs, black leather strap


2017 NON CATALOGUE WATCHES

A good chunk of non-catalogue releases to follow, including two 'Las Vegas' skeletons, the Hodinkee Skipper and limited edition releases for both Tom Brady (American football) and Kei Nishikori (Japanese tennis player).


CAR2A1D.FT6101: 45mm, special skel dial, cer bezel, steel case, leather/rubber strap (L/E)  
CAR2A1E.FC6400: 45mm, skeleton dial, dia bezel, PVD steel case, leather/rubber strap (L/E)
CAR2A1G.FC6400: 45mm, skeleton dial, cer bezel, PVD steel case, leather/rubber strap (L/E)


CAR2A1H.FT6101: 45mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, PVD steel case, lthr/rub strap
CAR201N.EB0115: 43mm, special dial, ceramic bezel, PVD steel case, rubber strap (L/E)
CAR201R.FT6120: 43mm, special dial, steel bezel/case, leather/rubber strap (L/E)


CAR221B.FC6350: 39mm, 'Skipper' dial, steel bezel/case, black perforated strap (L/E)
CAR5A1X.BA0510: 45mm, skeleton dial, steel/diamond bezel. case and bracelet
CAR5A8V.FC6377: 45mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, PVD titanium, lthr/rub strap (L/E)


CBH2210.XXXXXX: 38mm, silver dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet (L/E)
CAR2151.FC6291: 41mm, brown dial, gold bezel, steel case, brown leather strap (L/E)


WAR2A13,BA0738: 43mm, special dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet (L/E)
WAR2A13.FC6337: 43mm, special dial, steel bezel/case and black perf leather strap (L/E)
WAR2A13.FC6421: 43mm, special dial, steel bezel/case, blue perf leather strap (L/E)


WAR2A12.FC6337: 43mm, special dial, steel bezel/case, black perf leather strap (L/E)



2018-2019 CATALOGUE

A truly astonishing number of new models in the 2018/19 catalogue. Fifty four to be exact. And there were a ton of non-catalogue models to follow as well... crazy!


CAR2A1AB.FT6163: 45mm, special skel dial, ceramic bezel, steel case, lthr/rub strap (S/E)
CAR201M.FT6156: 43mm, special skeleton dial, steel bezel/case, red rubber strap (S/E)
CAR201V.FT6087: 43mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, steel case, black rubber strap 


CAR201W.BA0714: 43mm, anthracite dial, ceramic bezel, steel case and bracelet
CAR201W.FT6122: 43mm, anthracite dial, ceramic bezel, steel case, leather/rubber strap
CAR201W.FT6095: 43mm, anthracite dial, ceramic bezel, steel case, leather/rubber strap


CAR201Z.BA0714: 43mm, black dial, ceramic bezel, steel case and bracelet
CAR201Z.FT6046: 43mm, black dial, ceramic bezel, steel case, black rubber strap
CAR205A.FT6087: 43mm, skel dial, ceramic bezel, PVD steel case, gold lugs, rubber strap


CAR205B.FT6087: 43mm, skeleton dial, gold bezel, PVD steel case, gold lugs, rubber strap
CAR208Z.BF0719: 43mm, sunray grey dial, titanium bezel/case and bracelet
CAR208Z.FT6046: 43mm, sunray grey dial, titanium bezel/case, black rubber strap


CAR5A5U.FC6377: 45mm, skel dial, cer bezel, PVD ti case, gold lugs, lthr/rub strap (Tourbillon)
CAR5A5V.FC6377: 45mm, skel dial, gold bzl, PVD ti case, gold lugs, lthr/rub strap (Tourbillon)
CAR5A8P.FC6415: 45mm, skel dial, cer bezel, PVD steel case, lthr/rub strap (L/E) (Tourbillon)


CAR5A8W.FT6071: 45mm, skeleton dial, cer bezel, PVD ti case, rubber strap (Tourbillon)
CAR5A8Y.FC6377: 45mm, skeleton dial, cer bezel, PVD ti case, lthr/rub strap (Tourbillon)
CAR5A8Y.FT6072: 45mm, skeleton dial, cer bezel, PVD ti case, lthr/rub strap (Tourbillon)


CAR5A80.FC6377: 45mm, skeleton dial, diamond bezel, PVD ti case, lthr/rub strap (Tourbillon)
CAR5A80.FT6072: 45mm, skeleton dial, diamond bezel, PVD ti case, lthr/rub strap (Tourbillon)
CAR5A91.FT6162: 45mm, skel dial, cer bezel, PVD steel case, lthr/rub strap (S/E) (Tourbillon)


CAR5A93.FC6442: 45mm, skeleton dial, cer bezel and case, lthr/rub strap (L/E) (Tourbillon)
CBG2A1Z.BA0658: 45mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, steel case and bracelet (GMT)
CBG2A1Z.FT6157: 45mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, steel case, rubber strap (GMT)


CBG2013.BA0657: 43mm, special skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, steel case and bracelet (S/E)
CBK2110.BA0715: 41mm, black dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet
CBK2110.FC6266: 41mm, black dial, steel bezel/case, black alligator strap


CBK2112.BA0715: 41mm, blue dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet
CBK2112.FC6292: 41mm, blue dial, steel bezel/case, blue alligator strap
CV2A1S.BA0799: 43mm, brown dial, brown ins, steel bezel, case and bracelet


CV2A1S.FC6236: 43mm, brown dial, brown ins, steel bezel/case, brown alligator strap
CV2A1U.BA0738: 43mm, anthracite dial, black ins, steel bezel, case and bracelet (L/E) 
CV2A1V.BA0738: 43mm, blue dial, blue ins, steel bezel, case and bracelet


CV201AJ.BA0715: 41mm, black dial, black ins, steel bezel, case and bracelet
CV201AK.BA0715: 41mm, black dial, black ins, steel bezel, case and bracelet
CV201AP.FC6429: 41mm, black/white dial, ceramic bezel, steel case, black perf strap 


CV201AR.BA0715: 41mm, blue/white dial, ceramic bezel, steel case and bracelet
WAR1112.FC6391: 39mm, blue dial, steel bezel/case, blue quilted leather strap
WAR1113.BA0602: 39mm, black dial, PVD steel bezel, case and bracelet


WAR1114.BA0601: 39mm, blue dial, diamond bezel, steel case and bracelet
WAR1115.FC6392: 39mm, black dial, diamond bezel, PVD steel case, quilted leather strap
WAR1311.BA0778: 32mm, white MOP dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet


WAR1312.BA0778: 32mm, silver dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet
WAR1314.BA0778: 32mm, white MOP dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet
WAR2413.BA0776: 28mm, black/diamond dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet


WAR2415.BA0776: 28mm, white MOP/diamond dial, dia bezel, steel case and bracelet
WAR2416.BA0776: 28mm, silver dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet
WAR2419.BA0776: 28mm, blue dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet


WAR2452.BD0777: 28mm, white MOP/dia dial, gold bezel, two tone case and bracelet
WAR2453.BD0777: 28mm, white MOP/dia dial, gold/dia bezel, two tone case/bracelet  
WBG1311.BA0758: 36mm, black dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet


WBG1312.BA0758: 36mm, white MOP dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet
WBG1315.FC6412: 36mm, white MOP/dia dial, diamond bezel, steel case, white leather strap
WBG1350.FC6418: 36mm, black dial, PVD steel bezel/case, gold lugs, black alligator strap


2018 NON-CATALOGUE WATCHES

Lots of non-catalogue pieces to round out this part of the Carrera History, including the Chinese Lunar Exploration Program L/E, two Mexico Angel models (white and red), a rather cluttered looking Alec Monopoly Carrera, several boutique only editions and a piece unique Carrera made for Chris Hemsworth that was auctioned for charity.
 

CAR2A1B.FC6425: 45mm, special skel dial, ceramic bezel PVD steel case, alligator strap (L/E)
CAR2A1F.FT6044: 45mm, special skel dial, ceramic bezel, PVD steel case, rubber strap (L/E)


CAR201A.BA0714: 43mm, black dial, ceramic bezel, steel case and bracelet
CAR201AA.BA0714: 43mm, special dial, ceramic bezel, steel case and bracelet (S/E)
CAR201D.FT6087: 43mm, special skeleton dial, ceramic bezel/case, rubber strap (L/E)


CAR201E.FT6087: 43mm, special skel dial, ceramic bezel/case, rubber strap (L/E)
CAR201F.FT6087: 43mm, special skel dial, ceramic bezel/case, rubber strap (L/E)
CAR201G.BA0766: 43mm, skeleton dial, ceramic bezel, steel case and bracelet (L/E)


CAR201J.FT6087: 43mm, moondust dial, ceramic bezel, PVD steel case, rubber strap (L/E)
CAR221C.FC6350: 39mm, special blue dial, steel bezel/case, black perforated strap (L/E)  
CAR2091.FC6450: 45mm, special skel dial, ceramic bezel, PVD steel case, rub strap (L/E)


CAR5A8L.FT6167: 45mm, skeleton dial, titanium bezel/case, lthr/rub strap (L/E) (Tourbillon)
CAR5A8M.FT6166: 45mm, skeleton dial, titanium bezel/case, leather strap (L/E) (Tourbillon)
CAR5A8N.FC6448: 45mm, skel dial, cer bez, PVD steel case, lthr/rub strap (L/E) (Tourbillon)


CAR5A8S.EB0136: 45mm, ceramic bezel, steel case/lugs, white leather/rubber strap (L/E)


CBG2018.FT6143: 43mm, skeleton dial, carbon bezel, PVD/carbon case,rubber strap (P/U) 
CBG2A12.FC6450: 45mm, skeleton dial, diamond bezel, steel case, leather/rub strap (L/E)


CBH2240.BG0673: 38mm, gold/black dial, gold bezel, case and bracelet (L/E)


CBK2113.BA0715: 41mm, black dial, steel bezel, case and bracelet (L/E)
CBK221A.EB0171: 39mm, black dial, steel bezel/case, leather bund strap (L/E)



SPECIAL & LIMITED EDITIONS

CAR2A1AB.FT6163: Aston Martin Special Edition
CAR2A1B.FC6425: Hodinkee Portugal National Team Special Edition
CAR2A1D.FT6101: Indy 500 Limited Edition - 101pcs
CAR2A1E.FC6400: Las Vegas Diamond Bezel Limited Edition - 7pcs
CAR2A1F.FT6044: Mexico Angel Limited Edition
CAR2A1G.FC6400: Las Vegas Limited Edition - 77pcs
CAR2A1J.FC6400: Manchester United Special Edition
CAR2A1J.FC6416: Manchester United Special Edition
CAR2A1K.BA0703: Red Bull Special Edition
CAR2A1L.BA0688: Ayrton Senna Special Edition
CAR2A1N.FT6100: Red Bull Special Edition
CAR201AA.BA0714: Alec Monopoly Special Edition
CAR201D.FT6087: Tokyo Boutique Special Edition - 100pcs
CAR201E.FT6087: New York Boutique Limited Edition - 100pcs
CAR201F.FT6087: Oxford Street Boutique Limited Edition - 100pcs
CAR201G.BA0766: Indy 500 Limited Edition - 102pcs
CAR201J.FT6087: China Lunar Exploration Limited Edition - 100pcs
CAR201M.FT6156: Manchester United Special Edition
CAR201N.EB0115: Air-K Limited Edition - 150pcs
CAR201R.FT6120: Tom Brady Limited Edition - 466pcs
CAR2091.FT6088: Mexico Angel Special Edition
CAR2151.FC6291: Swiss Limited Edition - 250pcs
CAR221B.FC6350: Hodinkee 'Skipper' Limited Edition - 125pcs
CAR221C.FC6350: Blue Dreamer Limited Edition - 100pcs
CAR5A8L.FT6167: Cortina Exclusive Limited Edition - 10pcs
CAR5A8M.FT6166: Singapore / Malaysia Limited Edition - 10pcs
CAR5A8N.FC6448: Japanese Limited Edition - 20 pcs
CAR5A8P.FC6415: Carbon Phantom Limited Edition
CAR5A8S.EB0136: Ginza Boutique Exclusive Special Edition
CAR5A8V.FC6377: Mexico Limited Edition - 30pcs
CAR5A91.FT6162: Ayrton Senna Limited Edition - 175pcs
CAR5A93.FC6442: Tete de Vyper Limited Edition
CBG2A12.FC6450: Japanese Limited Edition - 50pcs
CBG2013.BA0657: Ayrton Senna Special Edition
CBG2018.FT6143: Chris Hemsworth Piece Unique for Auction
CBH2210: Ronnie Peterson Limited Edition - 40pcs
CBH2240.BG0673: Ronnie Peterson Solid Gold - 2pcs
CBK2113.BA0715: Japan Only Special Edition
CBK221A.EB0171: Fragment Design Limited Edition
CV2A1U.BA0738: Beaverbrooks Exclusive Edition
WAR2A12.FC6337: Muhammad Ali Ringmaster Arabic Special Edition - 750pcs
WAR2A13.BA0738: Muhammad Ali Ringmaster Special Edition
WAR2A13.FC6337: Muhammad Ali Ringmaster Special Edition
WAR2A13.FC6421: Muhammad Ali Ringmaster Special Edition


LINK TO PART 1 (1996-2012)
LINK TO PART 2 (2013-2016)
LINK TO PART 4 (2019-2021)
LINK TO PART 5 (2022-2024)
LINK TO PART 6 (Other Chronographs)
LINK TO PART 7 (Other Watches)



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