Wednesday 29 November 2017

VIDEO: Disassembling a Heuer 01 Chronograph Movement by Time and Tide


NEW: TAG Heuer Flagship Store Opens on Oxford Street



TAG opened their new store at 449 Oxford Street, London today (right next door to an Omega boutique by the look of things). Apparently the store holds 300 watches including a wide range of Connected models and is the largest collection of TAG Heuer models in the UK. Looking forward to paying this a visit!

Wednesday 22 November 2017

FEATURE: Sniffing Out TAG's on Ebay


As before, I have no connection or interest in these sales, nor can I vouch for their authenticity, I'm just pointing out a few interesting things I've picked up on...


1. TAG Heuer Messenger Bag.

I posted some picks of this the other day, however, the listing seems to have disappeared. I assume it was sold as it was actually quite reasonable compared to some TAG bags on Ebay.



CLICK THE PIC TO SEE THE AUCTION

2. TAG Heuer Ladies Alter Ego

I'm sure this will go up, but at the moment the bidding stands at just £49.99 for this 2002 Alter Ego with a blue mother of pearl face. Seems to be in very good condition and with it's full compliment of bracelet links, I'd buy this myself if I thought I could get away with it. Sadly at 26mm it would look ridiculous, and as yet the wife remains unconvinced. Expect this one to go to the mid-hundreds, if not then it looks a bargain with full box and papers.



CLICK THE PIC TO VIEW THE AUCTION

3. Kirium 'SAPPHIRE'

Standing out for all the wrong reasons, this fake Kirium has a ludicrously oversized logo and although on first glance the bracelet seems credible, closer inspection reveals very poor fit and gaps. It could be that the bracelet has had a hard life, but I suspect it's more likely just a crappy fake. Also, why does it say 'Sapphire' on the dial? Somebody has bid over £100 for this garbage, why would you do that when you could get an F1 Kirium for less than £400? Needless to say I have reported to Ebay, but we'll see if it gets taken down or not...

UPDATE: Ebay didn't do anything and this sold to some poor schmuck for £215.



CLICK THE PIC TO VIEW THE AUCTION

4. TAG Heuer 4000 Series 

A bit of a risky one here, this watch has supposedly been in storage for ten years and is offered 'in need of a new battery'... which is all well and good, but a) who knows if it actually works, and b) who knows if the battery has leaked and destroyed the movement? Bidding stands at £150, and I wouldn't fancy going much higher than that to be honest...



CLICK THE PIC TO VIEW THE AUCTION

5. TAG Heuer Formula One Chronograph

You won't get any bargains from 'watchlinks' but this seller does seem to offer some excellent pieces and this gorgeous Formula One Chronograph from the early 2000s is no exception. The asking price is £799, which is the high end of acceptable, but the watch looks fantastic and has probably been polished to some extent, and has definitely had a new bezel. I must admit I'm sorely tempted myself!



CLICK THE PIC TO VIEW THE AUCTION

6. TAG Heuer Aquaracer GMT

Rather surprised to see this here, not even two months old and it's already up for grabs. With 5 days left bidding stands at just under £1000, and with grey market prices for new at £1700 I'd be reluctant to go higher than £1500, but assuming the paperwork is all in order it's still likely a substantial saving over RRP.



CLICK THE PIC TO VIEW THE AUCTION

7. TAG Heuer Monaco 69

Oh now this is more like it! With 5 days to go bidding currently stands at £880 for this piece of TAG Heuer history, I wonder how much higher it will go? I do like the idea of this and it kind of appeals to me in the same way that the Monaco 24 does, it's a Monaco, but it's something more...

The Monaco Sixty Nine is one of those watches that tends to fade from memory and it's only when one turns up that you think to appreciate it all over again. This watch features a revolving case with the classic Monaco dial on one side and (effectively) a Microtimer digital on the back. The case is very thick though, so it's definitely not going to be for everyone, but like I said yesterday about the 'Executive' model, if money was no object I would definitely have one in my cabinet.

Apparently though, the rubber protection plates fixed to the back case leave marks on the glass, so I was told by a man in Goldsmiths earlier this year...



CLICK THE PIC TO VIEW THE AUCTION

8. TAG Heuer S/EL West McLaren Mercedes Limited Edition

It does seem a little fishy just how often 'New' pieces of the West McLaren Mercedes S/ELs appear on Ebay, but 'premier_brands_boutique' appear to have solid feedback and claim to have sourced this directly from TAG themselves. Quite why TAG would have NOS pieces of a nineteen year old watch knocking about is anybody's guess, but still...

There's no denying the watch looks pretty special and comes complete with all it's various bits and bobs, and perhaps tellingly the packaging looks correct for the period, so that's a good sign. This currently stands at £580 with just under six days to go, I'm sure it will go will over the £1000 mark and possibly a fair bit higher.



CLICK THE PIC TO VIEW THE AUCTION

9. TAG Heuer Multigraph

I can't tell you how tempting this is, at just £495 and in superb condition it's all I can do to keep myself from buying this... I mean look at it, isn't it beautiful? It is a tiny, weeny bit on the small side though at just 38.5mm, but that's probably something I could live with, but only because it's stunning!

But, being sensible about it, it is a bit too much like my F1 Kirium perhaps, and it's yet another black faced watch. What a watch though, this one really does make me want to throw caution to the wind...



CLICK THE PIC TO VIEW THE AUCTION

10. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Chronotimer

Ever since I missed out (well, passed over more like...) the yellow dial Calibre S Aquaracer earlier in the year, I've kind of hoped one might turn up again, and in the meantime this little beauty has also come to my attention. Sadly this one lives in the USA and as such would be liable to import duties (which I do not intend to get involved with!), which is a shame as it is on offer for just over £800.

These yellow dial Aquaracers pop up now and again, but they seem to fall into two categories, the nice ones that are a tad overpriced, or ones which have been worn every day and are covered in bumps and bruises. I think I'll keep my money and hope that Bicester Village can furnish me with one sooner or later...


Monday 20 November 2017

SPOTLIGHT ON: Executive Quartz Watch 915.813


Browsing eBay yesterday I came across this little nugget, and I have to say, those unfamiliar with TAG Heuer's of the past might well take one look at this, point, laugh and declare it fake as fake can be. But, while the logo on the bottom part of the dial does raise a question mark, the watch as a whole is perfectly plausible.


As you can see on this picture the standard version of this watch featured the model name 'Executive' across the lower part of the dial along with two more lines of text, whereas the model I found on eBay has that pesky logo. But this is not at all unusual for TAG after all, a company who loves making limited runs with all manner of badges and logos on the dial. 

As with most models in the 80s, TAG made this model in three sizes, 36mm, 34mm and 30mm - commonly referred to as 'Mens', 'Midsize/Unisex' and 'Womens'. The model pictured above is actually the 30mm version, which rather surprisingly has a 19mm wide bracelet.


The 'Executive' range isn't one that's exactly fondly remembered, it's no Monaco or Carrera and I can't imagine anything would entice Mr Biver to put it back into production as it's very much a watch that's 'of it's time'. This watch was made in 1986, at a time when most of the TAG range was made up of re-branded Heuers (the 'Formula One' series being a notable exception, and despite looking larger it measures a fairly small 36mm across the face (38mm inc crown).


As you would expect from such an elegant design, the watch seems quite thin and features a quartz movement but befitting it's 'Regatta' style it's water resistant to 200m, so quite safe to take on the yacht! 


I'm sure a lot of people don't, but I kind of like a lot these old TAG designs and if I had unlimited funds I would buy this just to have it. I dare say it would never trouble my wrist, but it would look lovely in a display cabinet. It's not even as if this was a 'lot' of money, it seems to have disappeared now but I'm sure it was on there for £300-400. But for £400 I could get quite a lot of half decent watches that I would wear, or half way to something properly worth while. Ah well, maybe when I win the lottery I'll collect one of everything...

More pics and info available in this advert here
https://www.instantluxe.co.uk/watches/wrist-watch/tag-heuer/silver-gold-plated-unisex-executive-A89093


Sunday 19 November 2017

SPOTLIGHT ON: TAG Heuer Messenger Bag


Amazing the things you find on eBay... this messenger bag appears to be genuine and is currently offered for a Buy It Now price of £175. Not sure I'd pay that for it, but it looks pretty neat all the same...






Saturday 18 November 2017

FEATURE: Autavia Heuer02 UAE Limited Edition

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Hot on the heels of the Jack Heuer 85th Anniversary Autavia, comes news of this new Limited Edition watch(limited to just 150 pieces), which was apparently developed in partnership with retailer Ahmed Seddiqi and Sons and costs AED21,200 (£4350) and is only available in the UAE.

Now, while I've not really succumbed to the Autavia's charms... I must admit the lighter dial versions of this watch do seem nicer than the black dial. I definitely appreciated the smaller text on the bezel of the Jack Heuer, as it seemed to solve one of the major design flaws of the original - but strangely, even here with the original text size the problem seems less of an issue.

But even so, a brown bezel (still aluminium by the way) watch is never going to be one to add to my collection, especially not on a brown leather strap (perish the thought). And yet somehow, I kind of like this... but I still think the best Autavia limited edition would be the Jo Siffert style panda dial with the blue hands, I'm sure it's only a matter of time.

The watch is to be launched at Dubai Watch Week, albeit only 9 will be available. A further 90 will be released in December with the final 91 ready for sale in the New Year. Somehow I don't think they will struggle to find buyers...

Thursday 16 November 2017

FEATURE: Paul Newman's 'Paul Newman' Rolex Daytona...


As I'm sure most of you are aware, Paul Newman's 'Paul Newman' Rolex Daytona recently sold at auction for a frankly astonishing $17.8M. By comparison, Steve McQueen's Heuer Monaco (used during the filming of the film 'Le Mans') sold a while back for a much more reasonable $800,000, albeit there was a major difference. In Newman's case it was 'his' watch, personalised with an engraving on the back by his wife who gave the watch to him as a gift. By contrast the Monaco was supposedly one of three watches used during the filming, although quite what's happened to the other two I don't know.

The previous record was held by the Patek Philippe 1518 (which sold for $11.1M in 2016) which was a stainless steel version and one of only four in that material ever made, and before that came the 5016A blue enamel dial grand complication made for the Only Watch charity auction in 2015.

It's hard to say quite why the Paul Newman sold for such an incredible sum, in the case of the two Pateks there are literally only 4 and 1 in existence, so it's a case of genuine rarity, but as I understand it there are something in the order of 2000 made with what is known as the 'Paul Newman' dial.

I have not been able to verify this number, but I'm sure I heard it somewhere... but in any case, the rarity is nowhere near the league of the Patek watches (and lets not even get into horological value), so why is this watch worth so much money? Sure this watch was expected to fetch some big money, but nobody expected it to open with a bid of $10M, indeed it's estimate was a mere $1M!

To be honest I can't help but think that this is a watch that is heading for a fall. It might take a while, but since there's nothing 'special' about this watch per se, it's 'value' comes from the fact that it was owned by Paul Newman and that the dial configuration has become known as 'the Paul Newman'. Is that really enough to justify it becoming the most expensive watch ever sold?


In 1999 the Patek Philippe Supercomplication was sold for $11M, and then again in 2014 for $23M. However, this was a pocket watch, not only that but at the time it was the most complicated watch in the world. It was recently offered again and failed to sell, partly because the title of most complicated watch has now been taken by the Vacheron Constantin 57260.

Personally I feel that these watches have more inherent 'value'. But the problem is that once the watch is no longer the most complicated watch in the world then the value falls. When it comes to values, you either need something 'unique' or you need something to be 'the first', someone else can always make something 'more' but they can't take away being 'first', but is simply being 'Paul Newman's' Paul Newman really enough to sustain the value long term?

I guess that will very much depend on the lasting fame of Paul Newman himself. To me, here in the UK, that doesn't seem a particularly good bet, but I think he was perhaps more famous in the USA?

Then, there's the popularity of the Rolex Daytona itself, is that going to last indefinitely? It wasn't that long ago you could buy them for reasonable prices, it's only recently that they've gone through the roof. Is that going to change?

If you're buying a rare Patek Philippe, it's not something that's driven by a surge in desirability in the wider market place, you're buying a special and rare watch and that's never going to change. I can't help but think that this is something of a 'pop-culture' aberration that in time may be seen as something of an expensive blip in the market, and potentially one that costs someone a lot of money in the long run...


Since this is a TAG Heuer blog, I couldn't end without pointing out that Watchfnder are currently selling a 'Steve McQueen Monaco' made in 1969 with the box but no papers for £14,200. Which seems a lot, but also a lot more reasonable!

VIDEO: TAG Heuer Monaco Review by Watchfinder


Monday 6 November 2017

ON THE WRIST: Carrera Heuer 01 Ayrton Senna Special Edition

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TAG Heuer Boutique, Sheffield / 6th November 2017

After the relative disappointment of the new quartz Monaco, it was nice to get my hands on something else which restored the faith a little. This all-black, Heuer01 Carrera is perhaps even nicer than the Red Bull Drive Timer I tried on earlier in the year, and although the watch is branded with the Senna S logo on the 9 o'clock subdial and also on the bezel, it's quite subtle and it takes a moment or two to notice it. I kind of like that, I mean I'd prefer it if all the 'branding' was on the back (like the Red Bull watches), but I get that a lot of people would want the 'Senna' name where people can see it.

The watch is surprisingly heavy, not that it is particularly heavy, but my Heuer01 is titanium with a rubber strap whereas this is all PVD coated steel (save for the clasp which is titanium and the bezel which is ceramic). You certainly know you've got it on, but I don't think it's anywhere near as heavy as my Aquagraph. I do wonder though how the bracelet is going to stand up to wear and tear, the bezel's going to be fine of course (save for the endless fingermark wiping), but a PVD coated steel bracelet... I'm not so sure.


Still at £4900 I would hope the buyer would be taking good care of his watch and not wearing it 24/7 like a beater, but you know how susceptible to scratches bracelets and clasps are.

I really, really liked this watch. I think the numerals on the face make the watch look different enough from my original Heuer01 that I wouldn't mind owning both and I think the bracelet is much cooler than the standard steel bracelet on the Red Bull version. I don't even mind (too much) the £750 premium for this over the standard 45mm Heuer01, but at this price the same problem arises... if I had £4900 to buy this watch, I would save a bit more and get the Monaco 24.

But that's by the by really, this is a very nice piece and easily one of best watches in the current line-up.

VIDEO: Heuer Autavia: A Week on the Wrist by Hodinkee


ON THE WRIST: Monaco Quartz Watch

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TAG Heuer Boutique, Sheffield / 6th November 2017

The obvious missing piece from my watch collection is of course a Monaco of some description, but as of yet I just haven't been able to find the one I like enough at a price that I'm willing to pay. All the ones I seem to like are Special Editions and the one I really like is just too expensive (even with a 40% discount in the outlet). So I was rather excited about the launch of the new Monaco Quartz timepiece, as it seemed to present an affordable way to add a Monaco to my collection... but sadly having come face to face with it today, I can safely say that is not going to happen.

I must admit I was a little concerned when I read that the watch was 37mm, and even more concerned when I realised that the brown and white versions (which are sold as ladies watches) were the same size. But, I kept an open mind, after all square watches wear larger than round watches so it was likely to be more like 39-40mm on the wrist, which puts it in the same realm as my F1 Kirium.

The problem is, well... the first problem is the size, because it does look a little dainty on my 7" wrist. I mean it's okay, but it's right at the limit of what I would feel comfortable wearing. Now I know a lot of people don't like the bigger watches and so this may be fine for you, indeed my friend with the small wrist (who bought my old 2000 series) would be fine with this watch, but for me it's just not quite big enough.


It's also rather slender for a Monaco, and rather shiny... indeed, it looks strangely feminine somehow. I know the pictures don't really convey this, but I promise you that on the wrist it really does give the impression of being a ladies watch. It's not just a matter of the size, it just doesn't feel in any way 'manly' at all, the case is closer to the design of the Monaco 24 than the standard Monaco, with beveled edges and while this works with the Monaco 24's bulk, here it gives the watch a more delicate appearance and to me this is not helping.

So what you basically have here is a 'black dial' unisex 'Monaco' which will mostly appeal to women and to guys who find the standard Monacos too big and bulky, indeed, if you are in the market for an elegant dress watch then this may very well be an ideal timepiece, but to me, this isn't a Monaco.

(I'm pretty sure this picture is a woman's wrist.)

It may be a square watch with Monaco written on the dial, but it doesn't give me the feeling a Monaco should, and it's nothing to do with the movement or the lack of of a chronograph. To me a Monaco should not be 'dainty' on the wrist, and that's exactly how this feels, and I'm genuinely disappointed because I really thought that this might be what I was looking for and it really isn't.

Strangely I've always found the standard Monacos to be somewhat un-ergonomic, the square shape at odds with the curvature of the wrist, but having sampled the alternative I find that I definitely prefer the proper square Monaco and I think that unless I can somehow scrape together the funds for the black dial Monaco 24 (and get it past the missus!) it's going to be a pre-owned Monaco for me...