HISTORY: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 (Era One: 1987-1996)

Inspired by my new Formula 1, I decided to start a new series today. In this series I will be looking at the history of TAG Heuer models, using the catalogues to track the release years and how the collections developed and changed throughout the years. As you can imagine, this is quite time consuming (this post took me about six hours to complete) so I will be breaking the ranges down into manageable parts. For TAG Heuer, what better place to start could there be than the first watch the brand launched in its own right ' the original 'Formula 1'.

The history of the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 watch is very involved and further complicated by owners willingness to concoct their own combinations of bezels, cases and straps (either through creativity, or more likely necessity!), I guess that was supposed to be part of the fun, but for the purposes of this post I have consulted the TAG Heuer catalogues from 1987-1996 to ensure no rogue models get in.

You would be forgiven for thinking that the steel case models superseded the initial fibreglass coated originals, but actually the steel cases arrived very early on and the two ranges co-existed for quite some time. It wasn't really until the model was reaching the end of it's life that the fibreglass case was retired.

I rather enjoyed researching this post, even though it required some rather meticulous work including a spreadsheet to ensure I'd included everything, and I even learned something which I did not know - or rather simply had not noticed previously, that the Formula 1 range was discontinued for 4 years around the turn of the century! Evidently when LVMH bought the company they tried to take the brand upmarket, but eventually relented and brought it back - to great success, it must be said!


1987 CATALOGUE

TAG Heuer launched the Formula 1 series with just three watches, all 34mm men's models.

383.513: Men's, black/red dial, black bezel, black resin case with a black strap

384.513: Men's white/green dial, green bezel, red resin case with a green strap

385.513: Men's white/red dial, black bezel, red resin case with a black strap

1987/1988 CATALOGUE

This catalogue witnessed a drastic widening of the range and introduced the ladies (28mm) and steel cased models for the first time.

360.508: Ladies, pink dial, grey bezel, pink resin case with a grey strap

361.508: Ladies, cream dial, cream bezel, cream resin case with a cream strap

362.508: Ladies, navy/green dial, green bezel, navy resin case with a green strap

363.508: Ladies, blue/pale blue dial, pale blue bezel, blue resin case with a pale blue strap

370.508: Ladies, navy dial, navy bezel, steel case with a navy strap

371.508: Ladies, luminous/red dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap

372.508: Ladies, luminous/green dial, green bezel, steel case with a black strap

373.508: Ladies, grey/orange dial, orange bezel, steel case with an orange strap

370.513: Mens, navy dial, navy bezel, steel case with a navy strap

371.513: Mens, luminous/red dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap

372.513: Mens, luminous/green dial, green bezel, steel case with a green strap

373.513: Mens, grey/orange dial, orange bezel, steel case with an orange strap

380.513: Mens. black/yellow dial, yellow bezel, black resin case with a yellow strap

381.513: Mens, blue dial, black bezel, blue resin case with a black strap

382.513: Mens, yellow/grey dial, grey bezel, yellow resin case with a grey strap

386.513: Mens, cream dial, navy bezel, cream resin case with a navy strap*

387.513: Mens, cream dial, navy bezel, cream resin case with a navy strap

388.513: Mens, navy/pale blue dial, pale blue bezel, navy resin case with a navy strap

*386.513 is a special edition version of 387.513, this was for the 'Around Europe Sailing Race of 1987', it is quite unusual to have a completely separate part number just for a logo on the dial rather than a suffix added to the regular part number but I have seen a photo of the back verifying this number. This model was not featured in any catalogue.

1988 CATALOGUE

The 1988 catalogue maintained the collection thus far, with no models added or deleted.

1988/1989 CATALOGUE

The 1988/89 catalogue introduced two pink ladies models which are perhaps best viewed as 'novelties' for the 1989 season as they did not feature in any future catalogues. Also premiered here were the first Formula 1 chronograph watches.

364.508: Ladies, pink/pale pink dial, pale pink bezel, pink resin case with a pale pink strap

365.508: Ladies, bright pink dial, bright pink bezel, bright pink resin case and bright pink strap

374.508: Ladies, black/red dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap

470.513: Mens, blue/black dial, blue bezel, steel case with a blue strap

471.513: Mens, black dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap

472.513: Mens, grey/black dial, red bezel, steel case with a red strap

383.513/85: As the previous 383.513 model but with a red strap

383.513/81: 383.513 is redesignated the 385.513/81 to distinguish from the new red strap model

1991 CATALOGUE

Several more variations added and the previously released chronographs are replaced with new models. The last two resin cased watches are added to the range (both of which are ladies models) and all models with steel cases are now available on bracelets for the first time.

375.508: Ladies, black dial/green hands, black/green bezel, steel case with a black strap

380.508: Ladies, black/yellow dial, yellow bezel, black resin case with a yellow strap

383.508/481: Ladies, black/red dial, black bezel, black resin case with a black strap

The yellow and black ladies model does not appear in any further catalogues and should probably be considered a 'novelty' for 1991.

376.508: Ladies, black dial/yellow hands, black/yellow bezel, steel case with a black strap

377.508: Ladies, black dial/pink hands, black/pink bezel, steel case with a black strap

374.513: Mens, black/red dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap

375.513: Mens, black/green dial/green hands, black/green bezel, steel case with a black strap

376.513: Mens, black dial/yellow hands, black/yellow bezel, steel case with a black strap

377.513: Mens, black dial/pink hands, black/pink bezel, steel case with a black strap

570.513: Mens, blue/black dial, blue bezel, steel case with a bracelet

571.513: Mens, black dial, black bezel, steel case with a bracelet

Model numbers 387.513, 388.513, 385.513, 470.513, 471.513 and 472.513 appear to have been deleted.

1992/1993 CATALOGUE

No new models were added in the 1992/93 catalogue, but some of the long standing resin case models were deleted: 382.513, 383.513 and 384.513. At the same time the TAG Heuer numbering system was changed, the chart below shows the old and new numbers.

1994/1995 SELECTION CATALOGUE

In this catalogue we find the blue and black dial Formula 1 chronographs joined for the first time by a white dial variant.

CA1212.BA0493: Mens, white/black dial, black bezel, steel case on a bracelet

1995/1996 CATALOGUE

By the time the 1995/96 catalogue came around the resin cased models had been completely discontinued, however it appears that you could still choose a strap instead of a bracelet. Four brand new models were added to the line-up, these were the last first generation Formula 1s as by 1997 the whole line was revamped and rubber straps were brought in as alternatives to bracelets.

WA1218: Mens, white dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap or bracelet

WA1219: Mens, white deal, blue bezel, steel case with a blue strap or bracelet

WA1418: Ladies, white dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap or bracelet

WA1419: Ladies, white/blue dial, blue bezel, steel case with a blue strap or bracelet

SPECIAL EDITIONS

382.513K: Mens, Ukyo Katayama Limited Edition (1992)

383.513/1: Mens, British Petrolem dial special edition.

The Ukyo Katayama limited edition has been shown to have either 382.513-K or 382.513/K (where the K appears to have been made by appending the number '1') on the caseback, and was subsequently renumbered WA1262.BS0085 (though I doubt that ever appeared on an actual watch).

Many thanks to Snowy at the Calibre 11 forum for this information and pictures.

 

383.513*: Mens, Olympic Games Special Edition

571.513T*: Mens, Olympic Games Special Edition (Chronograph)

380.513*: Mens, Van Halen 5150 Tour Edition

CA1211-RO*: Mens, Saudi Arabian Equestrian Federation (Chronograph)

370.513*: Mens, Merit Cup, Zushi 1992 Special Edition

374.513*: Mens, Tom's World Sports Prototype Championship Team Special Edition

375.513*: Men's, Indianapolis 500 Special Edition

377.513*: Men's, Indianapolis 500 Special Edition

370.513*: Men's, Kenwood Special Edition

372,513*: Men's, Hot Dog Special Edition

385.513/085*: Shell Oil Special Edition

380.513*: Men's, Olympic Games Special Edition

374.513*: Men's, Hot Dog Special Edition

385.513/085*: Mazda Eunos Roadster Special Edition

383.513/085*: Japan Bowl 1993 Special Edition

I hope you have enjoyed this (rather detailed) look at the history of the first generation of Formula 1 watches, I hope to continue the series now and again (when I have plenty of time on my hands), though it remains to be seen how feasible it is given the horrendous number of watches released in later years... and really, once you get to around 2015 the catalogues are all but useless as a reference since they all become essentially 'selections' from the range and therefore unreliable for determining model life spans. Unfortunately this is a side effect of the website taking over the job of the physical catalogue - but of course, you can't consult the website as it was in 2016. 

I pity the historians of the future I really do! For all the cant about 'Connected to Eternity', it all seems very impermanent, perhaps there's a case for a 6 monthly look at the range to preserve the ebb and flow for future generations of TAG Heuer enthusiasts?

Visit the 'History of TAG Heuer' page HERE