OWNED: Aquagraph 500M Chronograph

Somewhat embarrassingly, when I bought my Aquagraph in 2013/4 I had even less idea about mechanical watches than I do now. Which is to say that I bought this thinking it would have a battery in it, and was slightly taken aback when the assistant started to explain to me how to wind it, etc...

But I've already written about my 'Buying Experience' so I won't retread all that ground again, but if you haven't read that post you can find it HERE

I can understand that this watch isn't for everyone, I mean there's no getting away from the fact that it is a big lump of a watch. It's 40mm, but it's thick and weighs a ton. You definitely know you've got it on, and I never really get used to the weight no matter how long I wear it, but then I kinda like that.

The Aquagraph is one of very few watches where it is possible to use the chronograph function underwater, and I don't think it gets anywhere near the respect it deserves for that. Now, I'm never going to use it underwater, I don't even wash-up with any of my watches on my wrist, but that's beside the point. The only minor issue there though is that the pusher covers are made of rubber, and while these still look perfect, rubber doesn't last forever. So, inevitably, one day I will have to replace them. But as I say, right now they look mint and I've had this watch for three or four years already, and I can't see me ever wearing this as a beater so it will continue to be treated carefully.

It's a very rugged watch, and to all intents and purposes looks like a watch with another watch stuck on top of it, but because the bezel is nicely angled it avoids that really chunky look you get with some of the 1000M divers from Seiko. I mean, those with a sub 7" wrist might wish to look elsewhere, because while the diameter isn't too extreme at 40mm*, the thickness and weight is going to look a little out of place on a dainty wrist.

The lume on this watch is fantastic, and there's a LOT of it. Not only on the hour markers and hands, but also all around the bezel (with an extra lume pip at the top), and even the running seconds has lume on the tip. Slightly oddly perhaps, the only hand that doesn't have lume is the chrono seconds (although the chrono minutes hand does), but really criticising this watch for not having enough lume is a bit of a joke!

The lume is super strong as well, mine is usually kept in a box and so when I take it out the lume is always flat as a pancake. Obviously I try to charge it manually, and initially it shines like a torch but fades quite quickly. I do notice though that when it is worn outside in the sun the charging effect is much more effective.

The bracelet is, as you might expect, a chunky piece... but then you couldn't really put this brick of a watch on a 'Jubilee' type bracelet could you? I love the bracelet and it's never occurred to me to take it off, but people do and there are some (mildly horrific) pictures of Aquagraphs on NATO straps.

Actually... it looks okay, from this angle... you can't see all the silly retaining pieces clanking about everywhere and the overlong strap tail flapping about or folding over... :)

My only issue with the bracelet is the lack of micro adjustment on the clasp, you do get a half link to make sizing easier, but still... my wrist can swell quite a bit in the summer and sometimes this watch is too tight to wear and sometimes (when I've lost a bit of weight) it can be flopping around all over the place. A few holes for adjustment could have made all the difference, but it's not a deal breaker.

As you'd expect the bracelet features a very well hidden diving extension which I didn't even realise was there until I'd had the watch a couple of years. Again, not something I'll ever use, but a basic requirement on a 500M dive watch like this no doubt.

Obviously, being a hardcore diving watch this watch was available with a rubber strap or in a boxed kit with both and a changing tool. Annoyingly, a while after I bought mine (from Bicester Village) they got in a kit and it was selling for the same price I paid for mine (£2100).. I must admit I was a bit miffed about that, but it was probably a couple of years later so I couldn't exactly take them to task!

I do like the look of the rubber strap, but I haven't investigated the costs beyond a quick glance at the notoriously expensive sellers on eBay. I suspect it may be expensive because it probably comes as a three part set, including the diving extension - which again I will never use.

The Aquagraph features a nicely decorated back, with a diving helmet heavily embossed onto the back plate. There is also a yellow (orange on some pieces) band around the crown stem which is intended to warn the user that it is not screwed down before being submerged.

Fitted with the Calibre 60 movement (with a Dubois Depraz module) containing a whopping 46 jewels, this is a fantastic watch that I don't believe I will ever part company with. A lot of these seem to be have been used as intended, rather than baby'd like mine... and I've read of them having problems with the crown threads, which strip and ruin the case. You wouldn't believe how careful I am when I screw down the crown!

Incredibly, this watch is easily attainable on the second hard market for around £1000-1300, which is quite poor really when you consider the original price was £3000. But this is something I've noticed, when a watch is discontinued it's value kind of freezes, whereas with my wife's Aquaracer, because it's still essentially unchanged and available, the second hand value somewhat reflects the newer, higher list price. So the £650 I paid for it about twelve years ago is probably what she could get for it today.

On the other hand, if I didn't have one I would be chuffed to bits to pick one of these up for that kind of money. As I said, this isn't a watch everyone's going to get on with... it's not the easiest thing to wear, and it's not the most 'comfortable' watch in the world, but I love it. I saw a video the other day which said that some people find the crown is annoying and that it digs into the back of your hand, I can't say that have noticed this at all, but it could be that people are wearing the watch too tight because of the lack of micro adjustment. Just a thought...

You can read more about the Aquagraph by visiting Calibre 11 (some great photos as well) by clicking HERE

*I need to get my measuring stick out, Watchfinder list this as a 40mm dia, whereas Calibre 11 say it's 43mm... I don't think it's as big as 43mm to be honest, but it's a little deceptive. The glass looks quite small, because the bezel is quite substantial and the case is larger than the bezel so that may be where the disparity arises.