CBE2117.BA0687
There's something about Hodinkee that rubs me up the wrong way, I don't know if it's the aura of smugness, the complete lack of humour displayed in their videos or the beards... it gives me the impression that it's a company for people who wear suits without socks, and who spend far too much time on Instagram. But let's not let cloud our judgement, eh...
I didn't much care for the Hodinkee Skipper, I thought it was overpriced, pretty ugly and re-using cases marked Carrera (and re-branding it the Carrera Skipper) was poor form. But still, it clearly wasn't aimed at me (contrary to popular belief I don't think everything TAG make should be aimed at me, but that doesn't mean I can't have an opinion about it) and it sold out in a day or so, so they must have done something right.
So here we are in 2018 and here's the next Hodinkee Special Edition (a Special Edition this time, not a Limited Edition), and well.... be honest, who didn't see that one coming?
The orange and black Autavia was bound to come along eventually, be it a Hodinkee Special Edition or not. Back in 2003 TAG Heuer re-released the Autavia in the black/orange dial, white/blue dial and white dial/gold case versions - so can we assume the gold case version will be along before long? Perhaps, perhaps not... (although we do know there's a Batman GMT and a 'flavour of the month' bronze version on the way) but this one was a dead cert and sure enough, here it is.
Problem is, we've only just had the superb looking Calibre11 'Siffert-dial' Autavia... and in comparison this one looks a bit, err... well, it just isn't that exciting is it?
I've never been that keen on the Autavia, and there's no point retreading old ground so I'll focus on the elements that are unique to this model.
One thing that does give it a slightly 'unique' look is the Tachymeter bezel, which is different to the one used on the JH85 and the Calibre11 versions. I'm not crazy about it if I'm honest, it looks a bit 'basic' somehow... I do think the orange splashes are a welcome addition to the dial which has a tendency to look very monochromatic on the original, but again I just can't help comparing it unfavourably with the white/blue version.
I know the 'Heuer 02' text was removed from the Calibre11 version, and here it's been left on... it does look a little bit cramped shoved in there with the date window, but I don't think it looks as bad as the new Link Chronograph.
Aged lume done properly...
Oh, and it's got faux aged lume, which is another point against it in my opinion. The only watch I think that I like with the biege lume is the Tudor Pelagos LHD, and I think that works because there's no 'white' on the dial, even the date wheel is off white. As soon as you put aged lume in front of a crisp white sub-dial (for example) it looks awful and obviously fake. I think this is something the industry needs to stop doing to be honest, surely it's a good thing that the new lume doesn't 'discolour', and I can see this fad passing eventually and people being left with some watches that look a bit silly. Then again, people are breaking eggs over their bronze cased watches to make them look 'old', but at least they can be polished up again...
Overall then, it's not bad. Predictable, unimaginative, and completely inferior to the Calibre11 model, but not completely terrible. In other words, it's the best Hodinkee TAG Heuer so far...
Been thinking about this thing when they put Heuer logo on the watches. It feels a bit like people fool themselves pretending its not really a Tag but it is a Tag with an incorrect old logo on it... It is not and will never be a"real" Heuer.
ReplyDeleteSome people claims it is only because the logo looks better but I dont know... //Jim
Hi Jim
DeleteIt's marketing pure and simple, I bet if there's one thing JCB wishes he could change it would be getting the Heuer name back (Without the TAG prefix). There was even a video where he said as much that it was stupid... what is odd is that other brands have had periods where there watches weren't the best, but because the name change provides an easy reference you get this silliness with the name thing.
I agree that people do fool themselves, and the company is using it to their advantage, but it is pretty silly. The watches come out of the same factory at the end of the day. I guess it's a unique situation that they need to work with and make the best of, I find it bizarre that they still make a TAG Heuer Monaco though... talk about sitting on the fence!
Does the logo look better? I don't think so, it always looks like half the logo to me... nah, I think it's simply association with old pieces and the negative connotations of the TAG part of the name again...
Changing the name was dumb, but then at the time they wanted the company to be 'forward thinking' and modernist, there was no mileage in Monacos or Carreras back then, quartz was the future - but hindsight is a wonderful thing. They could drop the TAG name, since it's pretty meaningless now, but I think perhaps the biggest problem would be how long it would take to offload all the watches with the TAG logo on the dial...
Rob