Predictably, when TAG Heuer launched their black dial limited edition Seafarer in 2024, I wasn't much of a fan. Aside from the 'retro' aesthetic, it looked way too blingy and the 'Tide' button looked way too big to me. Also, at 42mm it didn't really seem to make a lot of sense, given that it was most likely aimed at trying to attract attention from vintage Heuer enthusiasts (who naturally prefer 'vintage' sizing). Perhaps that's why it's still available to this day, despite being a limited edition collaboration with Hodinkee? And that also tells you something pertinent about Hodinkee's 'pulling power' in the mid 2020s...
Having said all that, when I saw it in person I did try it on and I didn't dislike it as much as I expected. The 'Tide' button wasn't actually that oversized and yes it was still blingy, but it fit my 7.5" wrist well, I just didn't think it was right for the people it was trying to sell to. So it's perhaps slightly surprising* that TAG Heuer have now given those people what they actually wanted in the first place (an 'Abercrombie & Fitch' style Seafarer), albeit perhaps unnecessarily embellished with gold indexes and hands and still in that questionable 42mm size. Surprisingly, this sprinkling of gold doesn't seem to have impacted the price like I thought it would, with this one coming in at £7450, the exact same price as the black dial version... though of course you're not paying a 'Hodinkee' tax on this one.
*Actually surprising isn't quite the right word, since renders of this were floating about before the black dial Hodinkee one came out!
Still, the response seems to be very positive, with this one getting a lot of press and even the TAG Heuer hating 'King of the douchebags' (Christian Zeron, Theo & Harris) falling over himself to praise this new model. Personally I think I prefer the black dial limited edition version, I'm just not really a fan of beige or pastel blue come to that. But you know, I don't have an old 'Solunar' in my watch box and that's the kind of person this one is really aimed at, so fine.
The CBS2016 comes on the new 'B.O.R.' bracelet and also included is a beige sailcloth strap with pale blue stitching. I actually think it looks better on the strap, but how long that blue stitching stays looking nice I wouldn't like to say.
Anyway, let's turn this one over to the Council of Considered Opinion. I'm sure this is more their cup of tea than mine...
7/10: "Despite being one of the new glassbox models 😏, I quite like this one, especially on the beige strap with pale blue stitching."
7.5/10: "I like it (preferably with the beige strap) but will never buy it. In my opinion the watch is too connected to sailing. I don't have any use for that at all, unfortunately. Colours and the bit of gold are in balance. Nice execution."
8.5/10: "Perfect summer watch - love the strap."
6/10: "I think the colour scheme for this Seafarer, which respects its history, is really great. However, the price being nearly $2,000 more—a significant increase compared to when the previous Seafarer was released—is simply unacceptable."
9/10: "I think they nailed it in design, but I agree about the price hike. I really do think it’s a well done throwback, though. $8,800 seems to be in the same ballpark as Breitling’s chrono models, no? That’s WAY more than I’d pay for any watch… ever. But it seems that everyone is going “upmarket” but it’s not specifically a TAG issue, unless I’m missing something. To be honest I can’t pay too much attention to anything that cost more than $3k, so I could just be out of the loop when it comes to anything over $5k."
6/10: "Liking the chilled vibe of this on the strap, with the vintage colour scheme. Even the glassbox doesn’t look too bad. I can just picture myself sitting on my yacht drinking a G&T while checking the tide times on my Seafarer. I really quite like this. I could see myself buying it for my dad. Except it probably costs more than my car."
8/10: "Much better colourway than the Hodinkee version, and looks quite good on the strap."
6/10: "I liked the black one better. Too much gold on this one for me, but it works well on the sailcloth strap."
8.5/10: "I like this one. Along with the Australian limited edition, it's one of the few glassbox models which really appeals to me. My only criticism is the gold looks a little bright and could be toned down a touch. The running seconds subdial looks very basic in relation to the other subdials too. I don't think it would work if it had the same complexity as the other subdials though, so not a criticism as such.
Nice watch."
8.5/10: "Would have been better if it had no date complication, and no polished protruding subrings. The gold hour markers and hands are a bit too blingy."
5/10: "Cream dial is nice, gold hardware is eh, teal lume in the hands is gross, date window is not a good addition, and the price is just not something I'd ever consider paying for a TAG. When the early renders for this showed up years ago I was excited, and was a little disappointed they went with a black dial initially but now that this is here at such a high price I don't care about it at all, sorry."
9/10: "I love this one."
8/10: "It was only a matter of time before a homage to A & F was launched as well. I really like this watch, especially on the fabric strap, which looks great! The gold indices, however, wouldn’t have been necessary—triangular lume plots might have been a better choice."
8/10: "A wonderful beige chronograph for beige people who enjoy big thick chronographs inspired by old shit from the past. 🤩 A solid 8/10."
9/10: "I love the new Seafarer! I must have a thing for champagne, gold and teal, the colors just work for me. It looks great on its bracelet, and even better with its strap. It's the first 2nd gen glassbox that I might actually consider buying (but not at retail price)."
6.5/10: "I really like this. It's a little big at 42mm and the tide button is a bit ungainly. I like it on the strap and the bracelet. Seems more opaline cream to me rather than beige. It's classy nonetheless. As for the tide function, I'm not into sailing but it's a complication I would actually use on holiday! Price is a bit steep (as usual with Tag releases these days)."
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