Tuesday 27 November 2018

ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 Rose Gold Chronograph

CAR2140.FC8145

TAG Heuer Boutique / Bicester Village, 21st November 2018

Aside from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 'Vampire' that I tried on in Selfridges, I'm reasonably certain that this is the most expensive watch I've ever had on my wrist, and certainly the most expensive TAG Heuer (working on RRP, the Carrera Heuer 02T is a bit less). Admittedly it's not something I would ever buy as it isn't really my style, but that doesn't mean I can't appreciate it for what it is, and who knows as I get older maybe I will gravitate towards this kind of aesthetic (although as I'm nearly 50 as it is, maybe not!).

The watch is 41mm in diameter and looking at it in the display cabinet I actually wondered if it was a 39mm, but on the wrist it feels very 'right' and to my mind this is the biggest you really want a gold watch to be. Any bigger and it could start to feel a little brash, at least in this type of design... the rose-gold lug version of the 45mm Carrera Heuer 01 is a different kettle of fish entirely of course.


I have about a 7.3/4" wrist, and the leather strap as fitted is only just long enough, but for most people I think it will be just about right. I imagine it wouldn't be a problem to find a longer replacement and as this watch comes with a regular pin and buckle style fixing (also gold) you wouldn't be restricted to TAGs own range.

The watch has a clear display back to show off the Calibre 1887 movement (the slightly controversial 'in-house' engine that was modified from a Seiko original), which is much loved and highly thought of by TAG Heuer collectors and certainly a lot nicer to look at than the Calibre 16 which has replaced it in the newest models.


The watch is chunky, without being excessively thick, but it's nice that you get a decent case width on this one as, after all, that's where your money has gone. Bicester have both the white dial and the dark grey dial in stock and while I initially went for the darker one but I found the white dial a lot more legible, largely because the gold hour markers and hands contrast much better with the paler face. 

And so we come to the major sticking point for most people... this watch retails at a price of £15050, making it one of the most expensive (non Haute Horlogerie) pieces that TAG Heuer has ever made. Price aside, it is a stunning watch and currently you can pick one of these up for £10535, which while still a considerable outlay does represent a substantial 30% saving. Admittedly it wouldn't be my first choice if I had £10,000 burning a hole in my pocket, but if money was no object then maybe it would be nice to own this as something to wear on a special occasion.

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