VIDEO: How to Set the Time on a TAG Heuer F1 Kirium by OBR Horology

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Calibre 16 Chronographs

 

Over the last few years it has become painfully obvious that TAG Heuer's 'Formula 1' range was starting to get a little tired. The current WAZ/CAZ case was introduced way back in 2015, and while there have been numerous updates and minor refreshes it really was starting to feel like it needed a proper overhaul. Last year's collaboration with the American clothing brand 'Kith' caused a whole lot of interest in the 'classic' Formula 1 and it feels like TAG Heuer have jumped at the opportunity to update with a new 'classic' 38mm three handed Solargraph expected at April's Watches & Wonders alongside this line up of Calibre 16 chronographs which was revealed about ten days ago.

While I did praise last year's Calibre 16 F1 chronographs as nice looking watches, the truth is they were incredibly safe and simply didn't have that certain something 'extra' to make them a 'must-buy' rather than another 'nice' watch in a sea of 'nice' watches. Thankfully it seems TAG Heuer have taken the plunge and produced something genuinely new here, which is absolutely to be applauded. After all the watch world is absolutely drowning in 'heritage' this and 'vintage' that and the Formula 1 was never supposed to be anything but fresh and forward looking. 

Yes, I know... the irony!

Unfortunately as I don't get any advanced warning from TAG Heuer and I haven't been into any major cities in the last week or so I haven't had a chance to see any of the new watches in person as yet, so as usual I'm basing my opinions off the renders, pictures and videos that I have been able to view online. On that basis, first impressions are pretty good. I really like that they've given us a completely new, 'modernist' case shape that doesn't hark back to anything (the previous case was a rework of an old Autavia case from the 1970s I believe), but rather takes inspiration from modern Formula 1 cars, and they've maximised the impact of the launch by leading with what are presumably going to be 'top-of-the-line' models in naked and DLC coated titanium.

While that creates a dramatic introduction for the new line the only slight problem with that approach is that it creates the impression that the Calibre 16 F1 has risen in price by as much as 20% overnight, which is somewhat erroneous since the previous Calibre 16 chronographs were uncoated steel.

Presumably there will be some standard stainless steel watches along at some point (probably when the WAZ and CAZ models have made their way to the outlets) and hopefully on bracelets, so it will be interesting to see where those watches fall in terms of price. After all, the Calibre 16 movement is quite old now and has a rather limited power reserve by modern standards... and it also doesn't qualify for TAG Heuer's 'in-house' five year warranty... so at £4300+ it's making the Calibre TH20-00 Carrera models around the £6000 mark look quite a good deal - especially when you factor in that the Carrera has always been presented as the superior model line with more refined finishing and tapered bracelets. 

But that remains to be seen, for now lets take a look at what TAG Heuer presented at the LVMH Watch Week 2025...

So initially TAG Heuer have chosen to launch the new range with four standard models plus one Special Edition in the shape of the 'Oracle Red Bull Racing' branded CBZ2080. I'm told this one looks really good in person, but from what I've seen so far I have to confess I struggle to believe it. There's just so much going on, from the forged carbon bezel with the tacky 'SPEED' lettering and the red TH shield, to the dial itself, which might either look amazing or a complete disaster... I'm not as yet sure. Top all this off with the red AND yellow highlights, not to mention more red skirting the underside of the bezel and even the side of the blue rubber strap. Well.. I just don't know and I don't honestly think I'm going to know until I see one in person. Which might possibly be happening as you read these words...

Is it green or is it yellow... even the website doesn't seem to know.

The one that caught my eye initially was the black DLC coated CBZ2086 with the lime highlights, this is a colour scheme I really like but I'm frustrated by the fact the some of the renders show a definite 'lime green' and some seem to show what could honestly be perceived as a lime tinged yellow. If it truly is a proper lime green, like we've seen previously on the CAJ/WAJ 500M Aquaracers, then this would definitely be my pick of the bunch and one I might look to get hold of at some point in the future. But if it turns out to be yellow with a 'hint' of lime then I'm afraid I'll be rather disappointed and will definitely be subtracting points come December!

I noticed the blue seemed to be scoring some good points with the COCO and I can kind of see why. Of course everybody loves black and red, but it's done to death at this point. How many watches can one own with that same colour scheme? I own at least three black and red watches myself and I am definitely in no hurry to add another. But blue is more interesting... after all we're more used to seeing blue as a colour in its own right, so to see it used here with black makes for a refreshing change.

And I must say I do rather like the text on the dials, it has a very 'modern' edge to it, while at the same time screaming 'inspired by the 1980s'. It also slightly reminds me of 'Fortis' watches and in my head is exactly the kind of fonts you might find on the dashboard of a 1985 sportscar. I also like how they've integrated the pushers into the case, that looks really smart and in this format I don't even mind the DLC coated pushers on the plain titanium case, in fact it works really well.

That just leaves the black and red models of course, which as I've already discussed are to be expected; but that doesn't necessarily make them 'bad'... just a little unimaginative. But then I'm sure there are a lot of potential customers out there who will fall for red and black more easily than the other colours, and after all they've gone radical on the design front so I'll let them away with going for a tried and tested colour scheme here.

That red strap though... I'm not sure. I think I would be ordering the black one from the plain titanium model (what a pity that doesn't have the red edging!) because those two together would make for a winning formula I think. Still, I'm sure that will be made available down the line, it seems rather too obvious for it not to be, and of course reminds me of the classic 1980s all-black 383.513.

Okay, well I think I've rambled on long enough now, so it's time to welcome back the Council of Considered Opinion, who've had almost a month off now. At least TAG Heuer have given them something to really get their teeth into here! Have at it guys...

Average Score 7.0/10: I think these are cool and a refreshing change from the previous generation. These modern styled automatic chronographs should nicely complement the upcoming retro 3-handers that we expect to look similar to the OG & KITH F1s. The cons are the large size (44mm width & 14.1mm thickness) and price, but I don't feel the price is really that bad for a Ti Chrono. Yes, a better movement would be preferred, but TAG doesn't have many chrono options to slot beneath their in-house TH-20. My favourites are the two reds. Then the Red Bull, which I would've rated higher but think it's too busy looking.

Average Score 7.0/10: It would be a 9/10 if it were priced appropriately and a solid 10 if it were 42mm so more people could wear it (saying this as someone who has enormous wrists and it feels fine on me).

Average Score 7.4/10: I really like the design of these new Formula 1s, which are totally new and full of personality. The contrasts between the grey/titanium case and the black bezel make the titanium red my clear favourite… I only don’t like the price of this new range, which in some way betrays the philosophy of the original Formula 1… I think that a quartz (or solar) version with a steel case, priced at around €2000-2200, would have been more faithful to the philosophy of the original. Perhaps the price is comparable to other automatic chronographs with titanium cases, but it wasn’t necessary for the Formula 1, the entry-level model of the brand, to be automatic and made of titanium… for that and for high prices, there are already the Carreras.

Average Score 5.0/10: Love the look of the blue, the others not so much, and the Red Bull version appears to be nothing special. A tad large and way too expensive.

Average Score 2.0/10: You think TAG will phase out the old F1 series for this new, more upscale design? This is tough for me because I hate them all… I hate them all with a burning passion. They all look like a happy meal toy from the 90s (especially the Red Bull) and I hate the case design. I have to rate them all the same as I see them as equally terrible. This is probably going to be an unpopular opinion, but I have to rate them 2/10 across the board. RIP Formula 1! 

Average Score 5.0/10: Well they don’t look bad but seem expensive for what was a base range watch? May well appeal to someone starting to build a TH collection?

Average Score 2.2/10: I don’t personally like the new models, but I’m not a fan of the original F1s, either. For those that are fans, I can see the appeal and I am happy that they exist for those who will appreciate them. The RB is once again too busy. They can do better. The prices are too high, but that’s what I think of most TAG Heuer releases these days. The “speed” on the bezel looks cheap and like a toy. But other than that…!

Average Score 4.4/10: I like the Red Bull. Agree that the SPEED on the bezel makes it look like a toy where a non-English speaking designer thought it would be a cool word to put there. In reality it just cheapens the look and makes it look like a joke on Alibaba express.

Average Score 7.5/10: Very cool these. Price is disappointing but not surprising these days. My only gripe is the word SPEED on the bezel. Never liked that but I guess it’s slightly better than Tachymetre? These are strong, taking the price out of the mix. Great start to 2025, but just hope it’s not downhill from here for too long.

Average Score 6.6/10: In my opinion, the update made the watch worth £2500, but if the price is set at £4300-4500, this is too high for a model without an in-house movement. The design update was well forgivable, but the price update is a serious problem. TAG Heuer should price them based on their content. These watches even exceed the price of a Monaco with an in-house movement from a few years ago. The price issue will slowly kill TAG Heuer.

Average Score 5.2/10: In general the watch cases are interesting. Partly because of the colour accents under the bezel. Many colour combinations possible. Typical, sporty TH watches. Unfortunately for me they are too big. 'speed' wasn't necessary. Perhaps there will be versions without text. Gold, Two-tone? 😉

Average Score 7.0/10: TH have come back strong for 2025, the new F1 chrono is an avant garde wake-up call after the line has stagnated for a few years. The case detail and sizing is on point, they look like they will wear spot on. The pick of the bunch for me are PVD red (because red is fastest) and the non PVD because the grey case, black bezel, red trim harks back to older f1 designs. Loses a point because ‘speed’ is too cheesy on the bezel.

Average Score 7.5/10: Well overdue, and seemingly pretty successful. Prices are very high though.

Average Score 7.5/10: I like them - they have their own design language and I won't be mistaking them for another. Titanium is a plus for a big watch to help it feel a bit smaller. Looking forward to seeing what's next for this line in its quartz offerings. A good start. They are just a bit big for me, looking forward to the three handers.

Average Score 7.6/10: Despite the fact that it's a step in a different direction I like the watch itself. I think it's looks great and modernizes the range. The blue square dial will get the best score from me of 8/10, the rest is 7.5 for each.

Average Score 7.2/10: I really like the design, it's clean, legible and very sharp. I also like the titanium case. Just a bit disappointed by the large size and the high price.

Average Score 7.2/10: I like the new case design very much. The curves and rolling surface are awesome. Looks really contemporary. On the other hand these watches also evoke some kind of vintage feel, I don't know how. Probably it's because if the tonneau shape. Especially the RB limited edition.

I like the details mentioned in Jeffs (On the Dash) article very much (bezel capture, Indices). Also the coloured rings between bezel and case are great details. Congratulations to TAG Heuer. The price would justify one of the inhouse movements though.

Average Score 6.4/10: Oh dear Lord, the Red Bull is far too busy and the dial (while I get the chequered flag reference) is a bit too near to a tartan. I hope it looks better in real life! The black and lime is the pick of the bunch in my opinion - the yellow accents are beautiful. A quality piece.

Average Score: 6.8/10: They're all nice except the Red Bull (what a dog's breakfast), but a bit overpriced.

VIDEO: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Indy 500 Quartz Chronograph by Random Rob

 

BUYING EXPERIENCE: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre S Regatta Chronograph

 

While it's a noble endeavour of mine to try to turn my rather large collection of (mostly) cheaper TAG Heuers into a smaller collection of 'less cheaper' TAG Heuers, it does rather take the fun out of the experience. Sure I was a little slow to cotton on to the fact that watches are not inanimate objects and they are liable to break and need repairing, but sometimes I really miss those heady days of 2019-2022 when every other month brought at least one new Ebay bargain to my door. Sigh...

Now, having sold approximately half of my collection, I have used most of that money to buy some nicer watches like my Grand Carrera Caliper Calibre 36, my Grand Carrera Chronograph Calibre 17, my SLR Calibre S and my Aquaracer Solargraph and I don't regret doing that, however I still get the urge to buy 'something cheaper' now and again. Truthfully, spending big money* on watches is still not something I am really comfortable doing, and since I only really like one watch brand most of the things I end up looking at are usually variations of things I already own or things that are still a bit out of my comfort-zone price-wise, even when pre-owned.

*My idea of 'big money' being anything over £2000 honestly...

VIDEO: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Calibre 16 2025 Chronographs by Monochrome Watches

 

NB: The video states there are four new Calibre 16 Formula 1s, but actually there are five. There is also another DLC coated model with lime yellow highlights.

ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Monaco 'Las Vegas' Monaco Calibre TH20-00 Chronograph

TAG Heuer Boutique / Meadowhall, Sheffield, 30th November 2024 

Another fruitful visit to the TAG Heuer boutique in Sheffield on this November morning, not only did I get to try on this 'Las Vegas' Monaco and the Porsche 963 Extreme Sports Carrera, but I also got to handle the limited edition Hodinkee Carrera Seafarer. More on that another time though... today we will concentrate on this DLC coated Monaco, and well if you've tried on any recent black Monaco you'll have a good idea how this wears.

COMMENT MODERATION ACTIVATED!

Apologies for having to do this but I've had to activate 'Comment Moderation'. Thanks to AI and BOTS I'm getting a lot of spam comments which wouldn't matter so much, but Blogger insist I delete any comment that has a link in it. So it's going to be a lot easier for me to just moderate comments in future. This may cause a delay in your comment being published in some instances, but please keep them coming.

Rob / Aqua-G

SPOTLIGHT ON: Another Ridiculous eBay Fake!

Just a little post today in lieu of a video... I reported the above 'Monaco 24' to eBay on Thursday and as usual they 'looked into it' and reported back to me that they found nothing in the listing that contravened their guidelines. I mean.... come on. It's not even difficult to see, is it? TAG Heuer have never even made a white dial Monaco 24 and even if they had it sure as hell would never have looked anything like this.

The only silver lining here is that the watch has a starting price of £3000. So if someone is actually gullible enough to purchase this (and it now has a bid!), then presumably eBay's 'hands on' authenticity checks will intervene. I mean, fancy being an authenticity checker and opening a box with this inside. You'd p*ss yourself laughing wouldn't you?  

FEATURE: TAG Heuer x Porsche - The Collaboration Watches (2021-2024)

 

You know, it really doesn't seem five minutes since TAG Heuer announced they were teaming up with Porsche, and already we're four years into this partnership with ten references on the books! How did that happen? Oh well...never mind. The great thing is that because all these watches have been scored by the COCO council previously we have all the info we need to do a top ten countdown! 

VIDEO: TAG Heuer SLR Calibre S Laptimer by Luxury Works

 

PRICE LIST: TAG Heuer Price List (January 2025)

 

Sometimes luck just isn't on your side... as you'll know if you read my previous post, I managed to delete the Word document I use for these price lists so I had to type the whole thing out again and then just as I finished it someone told me the prices had gone up! So annoying. Anyway, it's done now!

Aside from the previously discussed price rises (massive rises in the RRPs of all the tourbillon models and up to 47% on some pieces!) the main points to note from this snapshot of the TAG Heuer collection are the deletion of the KITH Heuer Formula 1s, all of which are now sold out and the fact that the Monaco Rattrapante's have changed from being listed at £121,000 to being 'Price on Application'. My guess is no one was biting at that price and it's perhaps not surprising when you think what else you can buy for that kind of money.

Also, the entire Monaco range has remained static on price, which perhaps tells us something... and finally the Autavia has disappeared again. Will it return (and in what form)? I guess we'll have to wait and see.

New items are coloured red, price increases are blue, price decreases are green (never had that before!) and anything else is left black.

You can click on each page to get a larger view, or even better open each image in a new tab.

TO VIEW PREVIOUS PRICE LISTS CLICK HERE 

(OR VISIT THE PRICE LIST TAB)

VIDEO: TAG Heuer Blue Dial Aquaracers by Brent Miller Time

SPOTLIGHT ON: Latest Additions to the Bicester Village Stock List

 

It's been a little while since I did one of these posts, so I thought it would be interesting to take a look at some of what is currently available from the Bicester Village outlet... apologies to readers from outside the UK as this is obviously a little irrelevant to you.

I really used to love visiting the Bicester outlet before the pandemic, it was always exciting to see what weird and wonderful new pieces had been found in Swiss cupboards and to chat with Even, Tom and Liam. I got to see so many cool limited editions on my various visits, Monaco 24's, mother of pearl dial Calibre 16 Carreras, even a shark dial Aquaracer! Sadly these days the stock is a little more generic, but there are still interesting things to be found... it's just that the good stuff tends to come and go rather quickly, so it's pot luck what you see when you get there.

I'm sure some of you are aware, but if you aren't already it is possible to request a link to the outlet's WhatsApp list which will keep you up to date with the latest stock. All you need to do is contact Evan at Bicester Village (01869 249008) and request to be put on the list, and don't worry if you don't live near Bicester or Cheshire Oaks as they can send watches anywhere in the UK.

As always, there is limited stock and some of the deals are better than others, but I know in the past I've picked up some very nice watches from Bicester (most recently my wife's black and gold ceramic Aquaracer WAY1355) at extremely reasonable prices. The great thing about buying direct from the brand is that you can be sure that you're getting a genuine product and of course you still get your 2 or 5 year warranty (depending on the movement).

Okay, let's take a look at a few of their current offerings... and this really is only a snapshot of what's available, when I last looked there were 97 different watches listed; so well worth a look I think!

FEATURE: The Era of the Affordable Tourbillon is OVER!

Welcome dear readers and, well... a bit of a last minute change to the scheduled programming today. By rights you should be reading about a very old Heuer 2000 Series I spotted on eBay the other day, but that's going to have to wait... because today we have something far more interesting to talk about.

As you probably know by now, every six months I trawl the UK TAG Heuer website and produce a price list which you can access HERE or by clicking on the 'Price Lists' tab at the top of the page. While it's mildly interesting to keep track of the prices, the real purpose of these 'price lists' is to provide a snapshot of what's available at any given time to future historians. I mean if someone had been doing this since 1986 my life would have been one whole hell of a lot easier these last eight years, I can tell you!

But I digress...

VIDEO: TAG Heuer Green Dial Aquaracers by Brent Miller Time

 

ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Carrera 'Porsche 963' Calibre TH20-00 Limited Edition Chronograph

TAG Heuer Boutique / Meadowhall, Sheffield, 30th November 2024 

Way back in September last year (IIRC) I visited the TAG Heuer boutique in Sheffield's Meadowhall Centre only to find I'd missed the Carrera Extreme Sports Porsche 963 by a mere 48 hours. So I was pleasantly surprised to find it had come back into stock on my last visit... especially as we know it is limited to just 963 pieces worldwide. 

As I've mentioned previously, I find myself rather perturbed by this new Carrera line. On the face of it the daring, avant garde designs should be right up my alley, but somehow I find them a little hard to warm to. At least partly to blame are the strange looking rubber straps, with this faux integrated look that while admittedly practical, also feels very 'faux' indeed.

VIDEO: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Chronograph by Harrison Elmore

FEATURE: Keeping Track of Wrist Time 2024

 

Happy New Year to all my readers! I hope you've all enjoyed the break (if you're lucky enough to get a break at Christmas of course) and you're ready to start another year of TAG Heuer enthusiasm with me?

So, obviously, it's that time again... where I reveal the REAL winners and losers of 2024. 🤣

I'm talking of course about which watches spent the most (and least) time on my wrist, and this year it's safe to say it was a bit of a walkover...