Showing posts with label 28mm. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 28mm. Show all posts
Thursday, 19 November 2020
Friday, 16 October 2020
Tuesday, 21 July 2020
HISTORY: TAG Heuer Formula 1 (Part One: 1987-1996)
Inspired by my new Formula 1, I decided to start a new series today. In this series I will be looking at the history of TAG Heuer models, using the catalogues to track the release years and how the collections developed and changed throughout the years. As you can imagine, this is quite time consuming (this post took me about six hours to complete) so I will be breaking the ranges down into manageable parts. For TAG Heuer, what better place to start could there be than the first watch the brand launched in its own right ' the original 'Formula 1'.
The history of the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 watch is very involved and further complicated by owners willingness to concoct their own combinations of bezels, cases and straps (either through creativity, or more likely necessity!), I guess that was supposed to be part of the fun, but for the purposes of this post I have consulted the TAG Heuer catalogues from 1987-1996 to ensure no rogue models get in.
You would be forgiven for thinking that the steel case models superseded the initial fibreglass coated originals, but actually the steel cases arrived very early on and the two ranges co-existed for quite some time. It wasn't really until the model was reaching the end of it's life that the fibreglass case was retired.
I rather enjoyed researching this post, even though it required some rather meticulous work including a spreadsheet to ensure I'd included everything, and I even learned something which I did not know - or rather simply had not noticed previously, that the Formula 1 range was discontinued for 4 years around the turn of the century! Evidently when LVMH bought the company they tried to take the brand upmarket, but eventually relented and brought it back - to great success, it must be said!
1987 CATALOGUE
TAG Heuer launched the Formula 1 series with just three watches, all 34mm men's models.
383.513: Men's, black/red dial, black bezel, black resin case with a black strap
384.513: Men's white/green dial, green bezel, red resin case with a green strap
385.513: Men's white/red dial, black bezel, red resin case with a black strap
1987/1988 CATALOGUE
This catalogue witnessed a drastic widening of the range and introduced the ladies (28mm) and steel cased models for the first time.
360.508: Ladies, pink dial, grey bezel, pink resin case with a grey strap
361.508: Ladies, cream dial, cream bezel, cream resin case with a cream strap
362.508: Ladies, navy/green dial, green bezel, navy resin case with a green strap
363.508: Ladies, blue/pale blue dial, pale blue bezel, blue resin case with a pale blue strap
370.508: Ladies, navy dial, navy bezel, steel case with a navy strap
371.508: Ladies, luminous/red dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap
372.508: Ladies, luminous/green dial, green bezel, steel case with a black strap
373.508: Ladies, grey/orange dial, orange bezel, steel case with an orange strap
370.513: Mens, navy dial, navy bezel, steel case with a navy strap
371.513: Mens, luminous/red dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap
372.513: Mens, luminous/green dial, green bezel, steel case with a green strap
373.513: Mens, grey/orange dial, orange bezel, steel case with an orange strap
380.513: Mens. black/yellow dial, yellow bezel, black resin case with a yellow strap
381.513: Mens, blue dial, black bezel, blue resin case with a black strap
382.513: Mens, yellow/grey dial, grey bezel, yellow resin case with a grey strap
386.513: Mens, cream dial, navy bezel, cream resin case with a navy strap*
387.513: Mens, cream dial, navy bezel, cream resin case with a navy strap
388.513: Mens, navy/pale blue dial, pale blue bezel, navy resin case with a navy strap
*386.513 is a special edition version of 387.513, this was for the 'Around Europe Sailing Race of 1987', it is quite unusual to have a completely separate part number just for a logo on the dial rather than a suffix added to the regular part number but I have seen a photo of the back verifying this number. This model was not featured in any catalogue.
1988 CATALOGUE
The 1988 catalogue maintained the collection thus far, with no models added or deleted.
1988/1989 CATALOGUE
The 1988/89 catalogue introduced two pink ladies models which are perhaps best viewed as 'novelties' for the 1989 season as they did not feature in any future catalogues. Also premiered here were the first Formula 1 chronograph watches.
364.508: Ladies, pink/pale pink dial, pale pink bezel, pink resin case with a pale pink strap
365.508: Ladies, bright pink dial, bright pink bezel, bright pink resin case and bright pink strap
374.508: Ladies, black/red dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap
470.513: Mens, blue/black dial, blue bezel, steel case with a blue strap
471.513: Mens, black dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap
472.513: Mens, grey/black dial, red bezel, steel case with a red strap
383.513/85: As the previous 383.513 model but with a red strap
383.513/81: 383.513 is redesignated the 385.513/81 to distinguish from the new red strap model
1991 CATALOGUE
Several more variations added and the previously released chronographs are replaced with new models. The last two resin cased watches are added to the range (both of which are ladies models) and all models with steel cases are now available on bracelets for the first time.
375.508: Ladies, black dial/green hands, black/green bezel, steel case with a black strap
380.508: Ladies, black/yellow dial, yellow bezel, black resin case with a yellow strap
383.508/481: Ladies, black/red dial, black bezel, black resin case with a black strap
The yellow and black ladies model does not appear in any further catalogues and should probably be considered a 'novelty' for 1991.
376.508: Ladies, black dial/yellow hands, black/yellow bezel, steel case with a black strap
377.508: Ladies, black dial/pink hands, black/pink bezel, steel case with a black strap
374.513: Mens, black/red dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap
375.513: Mens, black/green dial/green hands, black/green bezel, steel case with a black strap
376.513: Mens, black dial/yellow hands, black/yellow bezel, steel case with a black strap
377.513: Mens, black dial/pink hands, black/pink bezel, steel case with a black strap
570.513: Mens, blue/black dial, blue bezel, steel case with a bracelet
571.513: Mens, black dial, black bezel, steel case with a bracelet
Model numbers 387.513, 388.513, 385.513, 470.513, 471.513 and 472.513 appear to have been deleted.
1992/1993 CATALOGUE
No new models were added in the 1992/93 catalogue, but some of the long standing resin case models were deleted: 382.513, 383.513 and 384.513. At the same time the TAG Heuer numbering system was changed, the chart below shows the old and new numbers.
1994/1995 SELECTION CATALOGUE
In this catalogue we find the blue and black dial Formula 1 chronographs joined for the first time by a white dial variant.
CA1212.BA0493: Mens, white/black dial, black bezel, steel case on a bracelet
1995/1996 CATALOGUE
By the time the 1995/96 catalogue came around the resin cased models had been completely discontinued, however it appears that you could still choose a strap instead of a bracelet. Four brand new models were added to the line-up, these were the last first generation Formula 1s as by 1997 the whole line was revamped and rubber straps were brought in as alternatives to bracelets.
WA1218: Mens, white dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap or bracelet
WA1219: Mens, white deal, blue bezel, steel case with a blue strap or bracelet
WA1418: Ladies, white dial, black bezel, steel case with a black strap or bracelet
WA1419: Ladies, white/blue dial, blue bezel, steel case with a blue strap or bracelet
SPECIAL EDITIONS
382.513K: Mens, Ukyo Katayama Limited Edition (1992)
383.513/1: Mens, British Petrolem dial special edition.
The Ukyo Katayama limited edition has been shown to have either 382.513-K or 382.513/K (where the K appears to have been made by appending the number '1') on the caseback, and was subsequently renumbered WA1262.BS0085 (though I doubt that ever appeared on an actual watch).
Many thanks to Snowy at the Calibre 11 forum for this information and pictures.
383.513*: Mens, Olympic Games Special Edition
571.513T*: Mens, Olympic Games Special Edition (Chronograph)
380.513*: Mens, Van Halen 5150 Tour Edition
CA1211-RO*: Mens, Saudi Arabian Equestrian Federation (Chronograph)
370.513*: Mens, Merit Cup, Zushi 1992 Special Edition
374.513*: Mens, Tom's World Sports Prototype Championship Team Special Edition
377.513*: Men's, Indianapolis 500 Special Edition
370.513*: Men's, Kenwood Special Edition
385.513/085*: Shell Oil Special Edition
380.513*: Men's, Olympic Games Special Edition
385.513/085*: Mazda Eunos Roadster Special Edition
383.513/085*: Japan Bowl 1993 Special Edition
371.513*: Relix Hot Dog 10th Anniversary Special Edition
381.513*: Rare blue strap version (as worn by Nelson Piquet)
381.513*: Helmet dial Special Edition
382.513*: Tokoro's Deluxe Watch Special Edition
373.513*: Hot Dog 10th Anniversary Special Edition
I hope you have enjoyed this (rather detailed) look at the history of the first generation of Formula 1 watches, I hope to continue the series now and again (when I have plenty of time on my hands), though it remains to be seen how feasible it is given the horrendous number of watches released in later years... and really, once you get to around 2015 the catalogues are all but useless as a reference since they all become essentially 'selections' from the range and therefore unreliable for determining model life spans. Unfortunately this is a side effect of the website taking over the job of the physical catalogue - but of course, you can't consult the website as it was in 2016.
I pity the historians of the future I really do! For all the cant about 'Connected to Eternity', it all seems very impermanent, perhaps there's a case for a 6 monthly look at the range to preserve the ebb and flow for future generations of TAG Heuer enthusiasts?
Thursday, 31 October 2019
BUYING EXPERIENCE: TAG Heuer Kirium Quartz Ladies Watch
WL1316
I started watching this one on eBay a few weeks ago, when it was bidding at less than £100. My wife has been toying with the idea of a Kirium for quite a while but the cheapest she's found them has been about £280 for one in good enough condition. Indeed, while ladies watches are generally cheaper than men's, two other WL1316 on eBay at the moment are pushing the £400 mark, which is too much really.
I eventually secured this one for £201, and quickly received an email from the seller telling me the watch would be on it's way asap. Sure enough the following Monday I received the watch; admittedly not in the best packaging, it was inside a small, fragile cardboard box inside a jiffy bag but it survived all the same. First impressions are pretty good; the bracelet has some stretch to it for sure, but as my wife's wrists are very small that might be a good thing as my Kirium bracelets are very rigid and I feel this might work better for her comfort wise. The polished links are a bit scratched up, but I will give it a polish before I give it to her and get the worst of that sorted (as I did with my own CL1112) and at least the whole bracelet is polished so I don't have to worry about mixed finishes.
The clasp seems pretty sound, which is a relief as the Kirium clasps do wear as they are designed to be 'pressure fit', and the fold-over safety clasp is solid and will provide a good back-up even if the main clasp does eventually wear (as my blue quartz chrono has) and start to loosen somewhat. The watch looks to keep good time and I'm told it's had the battery replaced in the last six months so that should be good for the foreseeable future as well. I'm looking forward to cleaning this one up and getting ready to spring a surprise on my wife sometime in the near future!
These photos aren't great unfortunately, but I think it's clear that there's some significant improvement in the finish of the bracelet from when I received the watch and since I took these pictures I've done some more work on it and given it a polish with Autosol and it's now looking a lot, lot better.
The dial is really nice, I'm sure she's going to love that metallic blue finish, and the watch works perfectly (so perhaps some advantage to keeping it aside for a little while) although I'm definitely going to have to get that bracelet shortened for her as she has the smallest wrists imaginable (I reckon she's going to need six links out of her new Aquaracer when she finally gets it). The only mild annoyance is that the bezel is very stiff to turn, but since I doubt my wife has ever turned the bezel on any of her watches, I don't think it will be too much of a problem!
Friday, 3 August 2018
SPOTLIGHT ON: Ladies TAG Heuer 1000 Series Watch
980.028N
Ultimately my wife didn't want to rush into another purchase after already spending £270 on an Alter Ego (she's not quite as profligate as me... yet!) so she passed, but I'm looking out to see if it gets relisted all the same.
It may not be fashionable to admit it, but I kinda like the older black and gold TAGs. You may remember I talked about a black and gold S/EL the other day, and if that had been a full bracelet instead of a leather strap I think I would have been hard pressed to restrain myself...
But there is a degree of 'patina' when you buy these older watches, which you have to be prepared for. The gold on the bezel looks great (as do the hands I notice), but the bracelet and clasp look a little rough. I'm not very well versed in the care and upkeep of gold, so I'm not sure what could be done to restore the pristine look, but given that TAG's 80s watches are notoriously thin on the gold plating, you wouldn't want to be rubbing it too hard I don't think.
When you're collecting watches, it's classic pieces like this that can give you something fresh in the collection without breaking the bank. For us chaps there is the hurdle that watches from the 80s tended to be a good bit smaller back then, but while women's sizes may have increased too, most women wouldn't turn up their nose at a smaller piece the way a lot of men do. Honestly, I wish I could wear 35mm because there would be a lot out there for me, but at 17 Stone and with a 7.3/4" wrist - I really can't.
I'm sure if I look through the catalogues there'll be a man-size(ish) version of this, but you can bet your bottom dollar that if you can find one it won't be available for £169... which is annoying - but for the discerning lady watch collector it really is a buyers market (at least from what I've seen). I wouldn't be surprised if this watch doesn't re-appear on eBay* sometime soon and I wouldn't be surprised if my wife snaps it up either. She's definitely got the bug now...
I think a lot could depend on how well the Alter Ego bracelet goes, if it comes back looking better than she hoped I think that will give her a lot of confidence going forward that she can buy watches pre-owned and get them looking nice again without spending a fortune. We shall see...
*The watch has indeed been relisted at the same selling price.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Womens-TAG-HEUER-1000-Quartz-Watch-28mm-Black-Dial-Date-WR-200M-/253769936185?oid=253752412943
Thursday, 31 May 2018
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