ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5 Watch

 

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Goldsmiths / Milton Keynes, 13th September 2021

For the past few months I've been seriously considering the idea of purchasing a 'WAY/WBD' or possibly 'CAY' Aquaracer, if only because once they have disappeared from the shops the stress of ensuring that I don't end up buying a fake on the pre-owned market is too much. Admittedly I do already own a 'WAY' model in the WAY208C, but I'd also really like a steel version and the front runners are either the white dial version with the black hour markers and orange second hand, and the blue dial with yellow accents. 

I can't honestly remember the last time I actually tried on a blue dial (WAY/WBD series) Aquaracer, it must be a long time ago - maybe it was that limited edition 'Hawaii' model with the turtle on the dial and the palm trees on the back plate that I found in the old TAG Heuer outlet store at Bicester Village?

ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Elegant Chronograph

 

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Goldsmiths / Milton Keynes, 13th September 2021

Whilst I have come across the 'Elegant' Carrera in store before, it's never been one that I've been massively moved to try on. It simply isn't a model I gravitate towards and is certainly not something that I would ever buy or wear. But despite that, I was still intrigued enough to give it a go, after all as I keep saying - until you get a watch on your wrist you're only getting half the picture.

And once again this 42mm anthracite dial Carrera proved the point, as it was much nicer on than I had anticipated even by looking at it in the cabinet. For sure it's still not something I would ever buy, but I can still appreciate a nice dial, and this one is absolutely stunning.

ON THE WRIST: Tudor Black Bay Automatic Watch

 

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Goldsmiths / Milton Keynes, 13th September 2021

So some of you saw a version of this post on Friday morning, before I took it down and replaced it with the 'Timeline of TAG Heuer Production'. The reason for this was that somehow, I thought I had tried on a Black Bay 58 and it seems that what I actually tried on was a normal 41mm Black Bay. Bizarrely I somehow managed to get all the details right, and every single picture I used was also the watch that I tried on, but none of them were a Black Bay 58.

I now know that the easy way to tell the difference is that the Black Bay 58 has a gilt bezel whereas the original Black Bay does not, and of course it is 2mm smaller. Honestly I don't think it would make a lot of difference to my opinion, though it does appear from photographs that the gilt numbers on the bezel do liven it up a bit. 

But still, I couldn't leave a post up that was clearly wrong in every way (except that one that matters) and so I decided to rewrite it...

It's been a long time since I tried on a Black Bay (of any kind) and on this shopping trip I had already decided (since there wasn't that much new TAG Heuer available) that I would try out some different watches to spice things up. So on this day I also tried out a Bell and Ross BR-05 and a Brietling Pro Endurance Super Quartz, both of which will be reviewed at a later date.

ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Link Watch

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Goldsmiths, Milton Keynes / 28th December 2017

It occurred to me yesterday that I had never tried on one of the new Link watches, and since I was heading to Milton Keynes today for some retail therapy (not really, I spent more on parking than I did in the shops) I thought I should make a point of getting one on my wrist, if only so I could blog about it.

Because, in all honesty, the vast majority of the 'Link' watches don't really appeal to me all that much. There is a 'Searacer' I see pop up on Watchfinder now and again, which is based on a Link, which is okay... but mostly they seem a little understated for my tastes. In fact I'm not sure that I'd seen many Links until this year when there was a sudden glut of them at Bicester Village prior to these new ones coming out, and to be honest... seeing them en-masse, they all looked a bit... um, cheap. Actually, there's a better looking one in my local jewellers pre-owned, but they want nearly £3500 for that... I think it's a Calibre 17 or 18, it's the one with the black 'striped' dial anyway.

TAG Heuer Searacer / Link

So anyway, as I always seem to in Milton Keynes, I found myself outside Goldsmiths and re-acquainted myself with the salesman (I think his name is Ian, but I could be wrong), who sat me down and fetched me the blue dial Link I'd asked to see. One of the reasons I wanted to try it on was because in the window I noticed it looked massive, very 'platey' (like a dinner plate, flat and round, obviously) and I was curious to see if it looked different on the wrist.

Actually, I don't know whether it's some kind of illusion but all the watches seem to look big to me in the windows, I don't if it's because they seem to mix the ladies' models in with the mens' and thus they appear larger than they really are, oddly it seems to affect the Aquaracers and Links more than the Carreras. While I'm on the subject of Carreras, there was a very nice blue dial model in Ernest Jones, which I think is technically a ladies, but at 41mm it's big enough for most men to wear.

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So on the wrist, the Link appears much smaller, at 41mm it's not small, but I was wearing my CAU2012 Formula 1, which is 44mm and chunky, so it felt quite dainty by comparison. Not as dainty as that new Monaco, granted, but with no chronograph module it's fairly thin as well.

I chose the blue dial simply because I rather liked that 1500 Series that's on eBay at the moment (see previous post), but it didn't stand out like I thought it might. The colour seems a little muted, indeed from a lot of angles it looked grey or even black, and when I did get the light on it, it wasn't the nice jewel-blue I'd hoped for. And worse still when you could see the blue, was when the light shone on the dial so that the time was the least readable. 

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The watch is also available in black (of course) and white dials, and I think perhaps the white is the one I'd go for. It's certainly the most legible, but on the other hand it maybe looks the 'cheapest' of the three... but I don't currently have a white dial watch, and rather too many black dialed ones. While we are here we may as well mention the price, all three come in at £2300, with a Calibre 5 movement, which I guess is okay, although I think I'd rather have the Aquaracer 'Explorer II' WAY2013 and £650 in the pocket if I'm honest. I guess it's slightly unfair to compare a dive watch and a dress watch, but both have steel bracelets and the same movement.

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The bracelet is very shiny and comfortable, but by golly is it fiddly to do up. It's a long while since I've had a watch with a clasp like this (folding from both sides into the middle and giving the appearance of a solid bracelet) and I'm sure it would get easier with practice, but on first go it seems a bit of a mare. The bracelet seems to taper quite a lot as well, and appears quite narrow on the backside, which I know some people like... I don't particularly, but it's not a major issue.

It was at this point that the salesman started flicking through his dealer catalogue trying to find more information on my CAU2012, which rather distracted me... since any TAG catalogue is like catnip to me, especially a big glossy one that I haven't got (incidentally, I passed through Fraser Hart today and noticed a TAG catalogue on a desk with the words 'Haute Horlogerie' down the spine. I don't know what it was but if it's got Monaco V4s and Mikrographs in it then I want one! Come on eBay, don't let me down. Incidentally, I've had notification that I've acquired the catalogue I was bidding on yesterday, so I'm looking forward to receiving that sometime next week. :)

So where was I, oh yes, the Link has a display caseback, through which you can see the Calibre 5 movement. It's not the most exciting movement I've ever seen, but it's nice that it can be seen all the same, most of the Calibre 5 watches I've looked at have had solid backs I think (probably because they are generally dive watches). 

So, in summary, I think it looks better on the wrist than in the window. The case also appears more rounded when it's on the wrist, you don't really notice the slightly 'cushion' shaped case so much, but I must admit I preferred it when the Link had a bezel. I'm not really that keen on watches without bezels, Carreras aside, and if I was going to buy a Link, I think I would opt for something like the Searacer chronograph pictured above.

That said, if you want a smart looking watch to go with a suit for daily wear, I guess this is a reasonable shout. It's just not really my cup of tea. Still I'm glad I tried it on all the same.

ON THE WRIST: Bell and Ross BR-03-92 Diver and Camo Phantom

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Leslie Davis / Milton Keynes 16th Sept 2017

I've been aware of Bell & Ross watches for a while now, and thus far I've been undecided about them. I quite like their aviation instrument aesthetic, but having never tried one on I was unsure about how the round/square design would look on the wrist and whether the watches would be bulky and unwearable.

Well, I have to say, while they are unusual they are also a lot less 'square' on the wrist than a Monaco and thanks to the lovely, wide rubber straps they wear surprisingly nicely. I tried on two models, the BR-03-92 300M Diver pictured above and also the phantom-camouflage version pictured below.

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I'm a bit confused by the nomenclature being that both of these watches are 'BR-03-92', and a quick look at B&R watches on the internet shows that there are plenty of other variants with the same number...

This second one has a little bit of a Panerai look, I think it's the numerals which give the impression of your typical Panerai but it doesn't seem to have the classic lume sandwich or indeed any lume at all (though there might be some on the hands, I couldn't see any but the assistant reckoned there was).

In the window the phantom model was the one that caught my eye the most but on the wrist I preferred the diver. I thought the polished case would put me off, and that the black case would 'disguise' it more, but in actual fact once you get used to the idea of a square watch with a round face and go with it, the polished case actually looks fine.

The rubber straps are really comfortable and very wide, I prefer the ridged strap on the diver if I'm honest, but both are well made and fit well. For some reason the diver seemed to sit slightly better on my wrist, though I don't really understand why that should be. The phantom seemed to want to ride away on the bone, which is something of a problem I do have with other watches as well.

It's quite surprising how different these two models look, one bringing to mind Panerai and the other quite obviously echoing the look of the Rolex Submariner. I still like both but I'm swaying towards the diver, which is actually £2800 compared to £2900 for the phantom. 

The question now is do I sully my collection with a non-TAG product? Currently there's nothing in the TAG collection that is really setting my heart racing, and everything I do like either has a shitty strap or a cyclops, of course there is the potential of the new movement, but it's probably only going to turn up in the so called 'mutant' Carrera which I already own with the Heuer 01 movement.

But is the B&R a good investment? Not that I buy watches as investments, but nor do I want a watch that's going to lose a ton of money, and if it does then I'm more inclined to wait for a second hand model to turn up. Ah the eternal dilemma of the watch collector!

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Goldsmiths / Milton Keynes 16th Sept 2017

Another watch I tried on was the Tudor North Flag on a steel bracelet. Tudor fans would probably point out that this is probably a better 'investment' than the B&R, particularly with it's in-house movement and display caseback... and I'm sure they would be right. But the case is a bit marmite, and even though it's a good chunk cheaper than the B&R diver it doesn't really excite me in the same way.

I do quite like the dial and the power reserve indicator is a nice feature, but it seems a bit odd not having any crown guards. To be honest, I only really tried it on because I wanted a Tudor catalogue. So no, I don't think this is really one for me...

ON THE WRIST: Red Bull Edition Carrera Heuer 01 Chronograph

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Goldsmiths / Milton Keynes 15th June 2017

Another surprise for me today, was seeing the brand new Red Bull edition Heuer 01 Carreras in Goldsmiths. The salesman in the shop told me they were the second place in the country to get them, don't know if that's true or not but I haven't seen them anywhere else yet and I noticed they also had the Tudor Pelagos LHD in the window which is as rare as rocking horse poo (my friend Rich has one) so Goldsmiths at the MK must be the place to be!

I tried on both the leather/rubber strap version and the bracelet and I would say that my initial impression from the original photographs holds up, the leather strap is definitely my choice, and it looks even nicer than I thought it would. Indeed, I thought it could go either way in the flesh, but it's a lovely looking strap and the blue much better compliments the bezel whereas the bracelet comes off a little bland to my eyes.

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As with all bracelet versions of the Heuer 01 Carrera, there's that clunky 'step' transition to deal with as well, and it doesn't look any better here than on any of the others. The leather strap follows the contoured approach of the original rubber and blends in to the case in a much more aesthetically pleasing manner, I can't see why anyone would choose the bracelet personally.

The dial looks great, the white numerals really give the watch a completely different look to the original skeleton, but I have to say the lack of a border around the date is perplexing. Compare with my (original) Heuer 01 and the date is much less clear at a glance. Such a simple thing, it's almost as if they 'forgot' to put one on - surely not?

It's easy to think that these two watches are the same piece on two different straps, but clearly they are not. The leather strap version is titanium and features the same black coated case and red line as on the original skeleton watch. The bracelet version is steel all over and I have to say I don't think the silver case does it any favours either, it just seems rather dull in comparison. Also the pushers on the titanium version look better to me as well, but that could just be because it looks more like my watch.

Both watches are 45mm and the bracelet version retails at £4550, while the leather version is offered at £4400. I would take the leather version even if those prices were reversed to be honest, it just seems by far the more exciting watch and the blue bezel just works so much better with the black case and leather strap.

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I spent a good half an hour in Goldsmiths chatting to the salesman, who for once actually knew what he was talking about. I mean he didn't know that the black case meant it was titanium - but he knew the difference between a Grand Carrera and Microtimer, He also owns a Kirium so he can't be all bad! He also told me never to buy a Monaco Sixty Nine because they are impossible to service without scratching them and the rubber on the back case leaves marks on the glass... so now you know!

Out of the blue he asked if I had a Grand Carrera, and then produced a pre-owned CAV511A on a bracelet, the very watch I've been bleating on about these last few months (the one that's in my local jewellers) which was being sold for £2850 or thereabouts. And do you know what, I tried it on and I really didn't like it at all. How bizarre. Completely gone off it, which leaves me wondering what my next purchase will be because I had pretty much sold myself on that watch and now I don't know what it might be...

Or even if it will be a TAG Heuer. I'm flirting with Breitling, and while I haven't settled on a piece that is to my taste and price bracket as yet, I did leave Milton Keynes with two Breitling catalogues courtesy of a nice lady in Leslie Davies. Not sure the Breitling for Bentleys are for me though.