ON THE WRIST: Girard Perregaux Seahawk 49960-19-631-FK16A

49960-19-631-11A

Time and Gems / Bicester Village, 10th May 2018

This was the watch I tried on right before I checked out the Jean Richard Hokusai Wave watch, and it's in a totally different league (and to be fair, price range). Damned if I can remember the original price, I think it was somewhere between £7-8000, but today this was on offer for 'just' £5300 (according to the card that the lovely Sophie gave me to take home).

First things first, this is an unusual looking watch, and I'm sure it's not going to be to everyone's taste, but I liked it. I'm not totally sure about that bulging right hand side of the case, or the crown at the four-fifteen position, but the dial iself is fantastic. Sure the date positioning is a little wacky... but when you pick this watch up you can instantly tell that this is a very well made, quality item.

It's heavy too, really heavy, possibly even heavier than my Aquagraph (which is saying something), and while a lot of that may come from the very substantial, in fact downright 'chunky' bracelet, I'm sure even on a rubber strap (which is also available) it wouldn't feel in any way, shape or form - light.

49960-19-631-FK16A

Girard Perregaux is a bit of an odd brand, they don't seem to have a name to match the respect they garner in the 'watch community', indeed, I'm not entirely sure I've ever seen a GP anywhere but Bicester, not even in Selfridges or Harrods... maybe they've got a boutique in London somewhere but it doesn't spring to mind. Clearly the product is good, so maybe it's the marketing and brand awareness they need to work on?

When it comes to the Seahawk range, those who are a little... dainty of wrist, shall we say, clearly need not apply. This is a BIG watch, and you're going to need a man size wrist to pull this baby off. I'm not at all sure that crown guard would be comfortable long term and the crown itself is massive, but if you're a larger guy and you want a watch with wrist presence, this thing has it in spades.

The Seahawk operates at the price point where buying a Rolex Submariner makes a lot more sense, but clearly this watch is not aimed at your everyday punters. This brand knows it offers a niche product to a clientele who are more informed and aware, and for who the Submariners and Seamasters of this world are for the hoi-polloi. They know that not everyone will 'recognize' their timepiece and they don't care. They know some people will wrongly assume the watch is a fashion brand, and while it might grate a little they take comfort from knowing that on those rare occasions when they do bump into another GP wearer they give each other a nod and a smile. I imagine owning a Seahawk is a bit like being a member of a club that few can get into, or like owning a Koenigsegg. Evidently it's not a Ferrari - but who wants a Ferrari, 'everyone' has one of them...

Would I buy one? Sure, if I had the money to burn, why not. But no way I'd buy at retail, I bet these things tank hard. But if I was going to buy one, then I think I'd be searching out the green version, because if you're going to big and crazy, then why not go green as well - right?

I'd take that over a Rolex Hulk any day personally, but then if I was looking to spend £8,000 on a watch I wouldn't be looking at either of these, for that money I'd probably take a Heuer 01 with gold lugs instead. But still it's nice to know these things exist, for those with the resources and chutzpah to be bold and different.

ON THE WRIST: Jean Richard Aquascope Hokusai Wave Special Edition

Jean Richard Aquascope Hokusai Special Edition

Time and Gems / Bicester Village, 10th May 2018

Bicester Village currently has at least four watch retailers, there's TAG Heuer of course, L'Atelier (which sells Rotary, Maurice LaCroix, Graham, Corum, Porsche Design and now Breitling), the woefully named Hour Passion (Mido, Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Hamilton) and most recently Time and Gems, which sells Gucci, Jean Richard, Ulysse Nardin and Girrard Perregaux.

I've only been in there a couple of times, in the past I found the staff a bit odd, but this time I was served by Sophie who was very sweet (despite her colleague being a bit of a dick to her I thought). I did try on a Girrard Perregaux, but this post is about Jean Richard.

The first thing to say about Jean Richard is that I actually thought they had gone bust, but seemingly not... in fact they are the official timekeepers for Arsenal FC! They actually had the Arsenal watch in there and boy, what a thing to behold that is.

I mean, look at it. Who wouldn't want a watch with a spinning cannon second hand. How classy. I take back every negative thing I said about Manchester United's logo on the Carrera, by comparison it's weapons grade Chanel.

Sophie was keen to impress on me the quality of materials used in Jean Richard watches, and that the ETA movements are customised to their exacting standards. Well, at the prices they're charging they better be. I somehow had the impression that JR watches were in the £700-£1500 price range, but a lot of the watches on sale today were £3000+ (albeit with a 65% discount) and that seems high to me.

Also, every single watch in the shop (and there must have been a hundred or so) uses the same case. Google tells me they do do other watches, but not in Time and Gems they don't. To be honest I didn't mind the case, it has a Panerai thing going on, but some of the watches do look a bit plasticy if I'm honest. There were a couple in very bright colours (particularly pale blue and purple) that looked as if they might cost £70 from Argos, but there were a few watches that caught my eye.

One was a grey dial chronograph with an orange second hand (can't imagine why that would catch my eye, cough WAJ1111!) and the other was the Hukosai wave dial model. This one looks like it's actually worth the money and at an outlet price of £1050 down from £3000 odd, you would hope it couldn't lose too much more when you got bored of it.

On the wrist the shape doesn't seem obtrusive, it's much less harsh than a Monaco for example and the black case, black rubber strap combo obviously helps give it a flow that it might not otherwise have. The watch is available in a stainless steel (uncoated) case as well, but they didn't have that in today. You can also get it in a PVD case with red markers and hands, but I think the blue is the better looking for sure.

Really, the movement speaks for itself and you know what you're getting, the thing that's going to sell this is the dial and it is pretty cool. Rather than just a print, the dial is textured like a carving, but I did feel like it was a bit... it wasn't exactly clear what I was looking at, if I hadn't guessed because of the Seiko watch-back Hokusais. I mean it's a nice texture and it looks quality, but I think you would tire of explaining to people what it's supposed to be...

I didn't have an opportunity to test the lume properly, I tried curling my fingers over the dial but not much was happening, so I'm not sure how good it's going to be. In my experience Aquaracers that have been on display in shops tend to glow at the slightest provocation, so I'm not sure the explanation that 'it's not charged' really holds much water.

Well it was interesting to have a look and try this on but I don't think I'll be buying a Jean Richard anytime soon, and those Arsenal watches should be banished from the face of the Earth if you ask me! I will post about my Girrard Perregaux experience shortly...