FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Carrera 'Seafarer'

 

Predictably, when TAG Heuer launched their black dial limited edition Seafarer in 2024, I wasn't much of a fan. Aside from the 'retro' aesthetic, it looked way too blingy and the 'Tide' button looked way too big to me. Also, at 42mm it didn't really seem to make a lot of sense, given that it was most likely aimed at trying to attract attention from vintage Heuer enthusiasts (who naturally prefer 'vintage' sizing). Perhaps that's why it's still available to this day, despite being a limited edition collaboration with Hodinkee? And that also tells you something pertinent about Hodinkee's 'pulling power' in the mid 2020s... 

Having said all that, when I saw it in person I did try it on and I didn't dislike it as much as I expected. The 'Tide' button wasn't actually that oversized and yes it was still blingy, but it fit my 7.5" wrist well, I just didn't think it was right for the people it was trying to sell to. So it's perhaps slightly surprising* that TAG Heuer have now given those people what they actually wanted in the first place (an 'Abercrombie & Fitch' style Seafarer), albeit perhaps unnecessarily embellished with gold indexes and hands and still in that questionable 42mm size. Surprisingly, this sprinkling of gold doesn't seem to have impacted the price like I thought it would, with this one coming in at £7450, the exact same price as the black dial version... though of course you're not paying a 'Hodinkee' tax on this one.

*Actually surprising isn't quite the right word, since renders of this were floating about before the  black dial Hodinkee one came out!

Still, the response seems to be very positive, with this one getting a lot of press and even the TAG Heuer hating 'King of the douchebags' (Christian Zeron, Theo & Harris) falling over himself to praise this new model. Personally I think I prefer the black dial limited edition version, I'm just not really a fan of beige or pastel blue come to that. But you know, I don't have an old 'Solunar' in my watch box and that's the kind of person this one is really aimed at, so fine.

The CBS2016 comes on the new 'B.O.R.' bracelet and also included is a beige sailcloth strap with pale blue stitching. I actually think it looks better on the strap, but how long that blue stitching stays looking nice I wouldn't like to say. 

Anyway, let's turn this one over to the Council of Considered Opinion. I'm sure this is more their cup of tea than mine...

7/10: "Despite being one of the new glassbox models 😏, I quite like this one, especially on the beige strap with pale blue stitching."

7.5/10: "I like it (preferably with the beige strap) but will never buy it. In my opinion the watch is too connected to sailing. I don't have any use for that at all, unfortunately. Colours and the bit of gold are in balance. Nice execution."

8.5/10: "Perfect summer watch - love the strap."

6/10: "I think the colour scheme for this Seafarer, which respects its history, is really great. However, the price being nearly $2,000 more—a significant increase compared to when the previous Seafarer was released—is simply unacceptable."

9/10: "I think they nailed it in design, but I agree about the price hike. I really do think it’s a well done throwback, though. $8,800 seems to be in the same ballpark as Breitling’s chrono models, no? That’s WAY more than I’d pay for any watch… ever. But it seems that everyone is going “upmarket” but it’s not specifically a TAG issue, unless I’m missing something. To be honest I can’t pay too much attention to anything that cost more than $3k, so I could just be out of the loop when it comes to anything over $5k."

6/10: "Liking the chilled vibe of this on the strap, with the vintage colour scheme. Even the glassbox doesn’t look too bad. I can just picture myself sitting on my yacht drinking a G&T while checking the tide times on my Seafarer. I really quite like this. I could see myself buying it for my dad. Except it probably costs more than my car."

8/10: "Much better colourway than the Hodinkee version, and looks quite good on the strap."

6/10: "I liked the black one better. Too much gold on this one for me, but it works well on the sailcloth strap."

8.5/10: "I like this one. Along with the Australian limited edition, it's one of the few glassbox models which really appeals to me. My only criticism is the gold looks a little bright and could be toned down a touch. The running seconds subdial looks very basic in relation to the other subdials too. I don't think it would work if it had the same complexity as the other subdials though, so not a criticism as such.

Nice watch."

8.5/10: "Would have been better if it had no date complication, and no polished protruding subrings. The gold hour markers and hands are a bit too blingy."

5/10: "Cream dial is nice, gold hardware is eh, teal lume in the hands is gross, date window is not a good addition, and the price is just not something I'd ever consider paying for a TAG. When the early renders for this showed up years ago I was excited, and was a little disappointed they went with a black dial initially but now that this is here at such a high price I don't care about it at all, sorry."

9/10: "I love this one."

8/10: "It was only a matter of time before a homage to A & F was launched as well. I really like this watch, especially on the fabric strap, which looks great! The gold indices, however, wouldn’t have been necessary—triangular lume plots might have been a better choice."

8/10: "A wonderful beige chronograph for beige people who enjoy big thick chronographs inspired by old shit from the past. 🤩 A solid 8/10."

9/10: "I love the new Seafarer! I must have a thing for champagne, gold and teal, the colors just work for me. It looks great on its bracelet, and even better with its strap. It's the first 2nd gen glassbox that I might actually consider buying (but not at retail price)."

6.5/10: "I really like this. It's a little big at 42mm and the tide button is a bit ungainly. I like it on the strap and the bracelet. Seems more opaline cream to me rather than beige. It's classy nonetheless. As for the tide function, I'm not into sailing but it's a complication I would actually use on holiday! Price is a bit steep (as usual with Tag releases these days)."

VIDEO: TAG Heuer Classic Formula 1 Restoration by Watch Fanatic

 

FEATURE: My Top Ten Formula 1s by The Highwayman

Today, we are joined by the newest member of the Council of Considered Opinion 'Dave The Highwayman', for the second of our '40 Years of the Formula 1' celebratory posts. Dave is the newest member of the C.O.C.O. and a valuable addition given his thoughtful and insightful comments, so I'm interested to see what his top ten Formula 1s might be...

DTH: When Rob asked me to write a piece about my top ten F1's, I really had to delve into the memory bank. Trying to recall what I thought of them at the time, and importantly, what I was actually wearing in the second half of the 80's.

I remember the original F1 watches very well, I was not however a customer at the time. In truth, they really didn't appeal to me. I was...and still am a man entirely untouched by fashion trends! One could argue I was very much the target market, I was young, I had a little money and I was into motorsport. They just didn't hit my spot though, I wore a suit for work and wanted a “serious” business-like daily watch. 

I chose to wear a well used 70's steel Omega Geneve. That watch was actually my first “deal”, bought for £50 from a colleague and later sold back to the same guy for a £100. I still feel slightly bad about that one.. The F1's were quirky, small, colourful and in my mind at the time.. something of a novelty, throwaway item. I looked at them but didn't seriously consider buying one.

I did however buy an example of the totally forgotten Avia “Turbo” for weekends. In black and red,it matched my black XR3i with red bumper inserts.. Ahh, those were the days, before the inevitable, crushing disappointment of adult life set in !

Looking back, that Avia was clearly intended as a cheaper F1 alternative, aimed squarely at the same market. Multiple bright colours, racing stripes and “Turbo” printed on the rubber strap. They also shared the same ETA movement as the F1 for about a quarter of the price, nothing changes does it..

Only very much later in life did I appreciate just what an innovative, well designed and cool watch the F1 really was though. Far from being “throwaway”, they are very well built, the numbers still in use a testament to that. 

Sadly, the credit for that now goes to Tag Heuer as they were released post takeover. In fact, the F1 was very much a Heuer project, the design and much of the execution carried out before the buyout. I think the fact that these watches always carried a Heuer signed crown is a fitting tribute to their heritage. I wonder if Heuer could have survived without the merger given the subsequent success of the F1 range, perhaps....we will never know.

I was reintroduced to the F1 in a rather circuitous fashion. At some point during my watch dealing career, I bought a Tag Heuer 1500. I didn't know it was full lume until I wore it one night. I was rather stunned to see the whole dial light up.. it was a genuine WOW moment.

A search for other models with this wondrous and mystical feature led me back to the original F1, but I was still unsure. I still felt it was too small and too much of a novelty watch. 

I was wrong, when I did eventually bite the bullet and buy one, I fell in love with it immediately. I am blessed with a slim wrist,35mm is fine on me. It also helps that the bracelet is a man sized 18mm width, 16mm would make the whole watch look too small.

The first gen watches have that undefinable trait we call “character”. It's a watch that quite simply makes me smile, it's cute, but a genuine diver, it's quirky and friendly, but it's cool and it's tough. I love the full lume, I delight in that unique and tactile plastic on plastic bezel action. If the first gen F1 was a car it would be an original Mini, appealing to men, women, kids, rich and poor alike for different reasons. 

It's timeless, it still looks fresh and it's a truly great piece of design. So with all that said..my winner won't come as a surprise! 

#1: 371.513 / WA1211 Full Lume Quartz.

#2: 376.513 Quartz

I love the black and yellow colourway on this one. I don't currently own one, something I will put right at some point in time. Being a bracelet guy I'm really limited to the steel case F1's,this is a shame as I like the fibre cased models but I'm less keen on the rubber straps.

#3. 471.513 Quartz Chronograph.

So why I have chosen a dodgy chronograph that wasn't really a chronograph for a podium position? The answer is it was actually the first F1 I owned, in fact it was the first Tag Heuer I owned. These watches were an abject failure really and no.. mine didn't work properly. The movement was “interesting” to put it kindly, built by Roventa Henex using two batteries and a separate chrono module atop an ETA  base. 

Unusual in that the centre hand was running seconds and the chrono seconds were on a subdial. Rumour has it that when they went in for repair they were tossed in the bin! So does it deserve a podium on  merit, no not at all, but it has a place in my heart and that's what watch collecting is all about. At some time I will try and find another with problems and fix it, some would say I'm a masochist.. 

#4: CA1210.BA0493 Quartz Chronograph

Although looking very similar to the 471.513, these later F1 chronographs used a proper ETA 251.264 movement. Reliable and a much better watch, it would be on the podium if it were about common sense and not emotion. I used to own one of these as well and I do regret selling it, I would like to find  another.

#5: 385.513/085* (Eunos Special Edition) Quartz

So I'm contradicting my earlier comments here with a fibre cased F1 on a rubber strap, why..? Simply because I own a Japanese import Mazda Eunos and its the only watch as far as I know to have Eunos on the dial. I do need to find one of these, doesn't every enthusiast want a watch connected to their car in some way?

#6: CAC111B.BA0850 Indy 500 Quartz.

Not an obvious choice, but I quite like these. They don't seem terribly popular now and look a little dated. Many for sale seem to have had a hard life with paint loss on the bezel etc. They are relatively cheap and pretty good value I think. I've come close to buying one a few times but never hit the button.

#7: WAH1013.BA0860 Gulf Quatz

No other reason than it's a decent looking watch and it has GULF on the dial, everyone needs a GULF watch don't they?

#8: WBY1111.BA0042 Solargraph

I am still not wholly convinced by the Solargraph, but if I had to opt for one this would be it and it's

worthy of a top ten spot. I wish the hour hand didn't look odd, I wish it was full lume, even if that meant normal quartz. I have concerns about the longevity of the movement too. In general, I wish it was just an upsized WA1211 with the same balance and proportions but we can't have everything!

#9.: CBZ2084.FT8097 Calibre 16 Chronograph

I had to have a PVD watch in my top ten and this is my pick, good looking watch. I don't like “Speed” on the bezel, but I'll forgive that as I love the blue more than I hate the 'Speed'.

#10: WAZ221A.BA0875 Calibre 7 GMT

It's just a really good looking watch, what more is there to say !

My top picks are vintage heavy as you might expect. I think the first gen three-handers and the second gen chrono's are the watches that made the range what it is and the reason for it's longevity. Looking through the huge number of models over the years, it's apparent just how important the F1 in all it's many guises has been to Tag Heuer.

Every upper mid tier brand needs a strong entry level range, long may the F1 continue to serve that purpose. Congratulations on 40 years !

Thanks Dave, that was a very enjoyable read and don't forget wherever you see the 'Formula1@40' banner you can click on it to see all the available posts.

VIDEO: TAG Heuer Carrera 'Astronomer' Limited Edition by Random Rob

CATALOGUES: Heuer Catalogue (1985/1986)

You can now access a HUGE library of TAG Heuer / Heuer catalogues direct on the blog by clicking the 'CATALOGUES' tab at the top (in the drop down menu on a phone/tablet) or clicking the link at the bottom of this page.

VIDEO: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Circuit Board and Battery Replacement by Solim BD

 

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Carrera 41mm Glassbox Chronographs

 

As you probably know by now, I'm not a huge fan of the second generation of glassbox Carreras, especially the 39mm ones which look tiny on my 7.5" wrist. I actually don't mind some of the 42mm models and it's a shame they don't offer the purple dial, for example, in the larger case as that one is rather nice. So it's not that I'm completely 'anti-glassbox' and I do have some 37mm watches in my collection (so it's not purely the size). I think it's a combination of the diameter, the glass dome and the thin 'not-a-bezel' visible under the crystal conspiring to make it feel a bit dinky and a wee bit feminine (honestly). 

But perhaps I'm not the only one with reservations? Perhaps TAG Heuer themselves realise that maybe they went a little bit small, because at LVMH Watch Week they released three new glassbox chronographs in a larger (41mm) diameter. Yay, for common sense!