CBN2A5A.FC6481
Since the unforgettable Jean Claude Biver launched the Heuer 01 Carrera in 2015, the Carrera range has exploded. There's really no other word for it, we've had 45mm skeleton dials, then solid dials, then 43mm solid dials and then skeleton dials. We've had countless limited editions and then we had the Heuer 02 skeleton ranges! It's only now that we're seeing the end of the Heuer 01 range (hence the sudden influx of stock at Bicester Village), but now we have yet another range, the Heuer 02 powered Carrera 'Sport Manufacture'.
According to TAG Heuer this new range doesn't 'directly' replace any specific pieces, but I think the overall plan is to simplify the range and let's be honest - it desperately needs it. Don't get me wrong, I love that TAG Heuer gives their customers plenty of choice, I'm completely on board with that. But when you have 43mm and 45mm versions of practically the same things, in skeleton and solid dials and then you add in a new 44mm collection to boot, well... it's a bit much I think.
CBN2A10.BA0643
Of course the traditionalists will hate it, because it's too big, the lugs are too short and it doesn't look like it was designed 60 years ago... none of which I could care two hoots about if I'm honest, but at the same time - when I look at it, I must admit it doesn't scream modern 'Carrera' at me either. Maybe it will close up, but in these renders at least... no. Maybe it's the new pushers and crown that are throwing me off? I have seen some photographs that are less 'head on' and thankfully they definitely do look more familiar (you can see these pics on the Calibre 11 website, link at the bottom of the page).
Surprisingly, it's not the green dial version that has grabbed me the most, though I think that's an interesting and laudable idea. No, it's the two tone version on a leather strap pictured at the top of this post. Odd, because I never usually go for leather straps, but with the gold detailing on the crown, pushers, bezel and dial it really works. Presumably you could order this watch on the BA0643 bracelet if you really wanted to, but I don't think it would have the same impact.
CBN2A1B.BA0643
The black colour way looks a bit, ho-hum.. if I'm honest, but I imagine it will be the one that sells the most as it's a 'safe' option. No doubt if we wait long enough we will eventually get some kind of limited edition version that introduces some red highlights to the dial and maybe even to one of the pushers. But as it is, I'm not excited by it personally.
The black, the blue (pictured below) and the black/gold version all have ceramic bezels while the olive green dial model has a steel bezel. Surprisingly this isn't reflected in the prices as the black, blue and green models all come in at £4695, with the gold accented model understandably higher at £5395. That seems a bit odd as you'd expect to pay more for a ceramic bezel - or less for a steel bezel, perhaps?
CBN2A1A.BA0643
While TAG Heuer have changed just about everything on this watch; the pushers, crown, hands, markers, even the font on the dial... perhaps the most noticeable change is in the case. It is slightly thinner than before, but more noticeably, the lugs appear to curve around the case in one piece. This is a significant change from the 'modular' style found on watches such as the original Heuer 01 skeleton, where they were effectively bolted on and highlighted to emphasise the fact using different finishes.
Another, smaller, detail on the dial that's a little odd is the fact that the subdials are numbered at the 12, 4 and 8 positions rather than 12, 3, 6, 9. I guess putting one less digit in that circle makes it a little less crowded and there's no reason why those markings should be any less efficient.
Overall I think these new 'Sport Manufacture' Carreras are quite successful and I'm looking forward to (one day) trying them on in a store. But aside from the gold highlighted version I can't honestly say I'm massively excited by them. Maybe that will change once I see them up close?
Check out the 'In Depth' review at Calibre 11 with plenty of hands-on photographs:
And while you are here, why not check out Calibre11 forum user Abrod520's take on how this range would have looked if he was in charge:
No comments:
Post a Comment