Hello everyone and welcome back to the second part of Jim and I's look back over the TAG Heuer releases of 2022. If you haven't already read part one, click the link below:
ROB: Hey Jim, where should we begin with this second part of our chat?
JIM: Well I think I would like to start by hearing your opinion on a watch that could have been great, but left me with a feeling of 'meh'. A watch that has been out for some time now but we see very little of out in the wild. I am speaking of course about the new 43mm Aquaracer GMT.
ROB: Yeah... you know I was really, really, really excited about that one. Like I was genuinely saving for it at one point, months before the release... debating between the bracelet and the cool blue rubber strap, but then I finally saw it in a store and it was like. Wow. Okay... there ain't no way I am buying that.
It was such a disappointment in the hand. I really thought that blue and white bezel was gonna look absolutely top billy-bollocks and in reality... I didn't like it at all. In fact, if I had to choose between the three Aquaracer GMTs (Pepsi, Batman and... what nickname did we give the blue and white again? The whale, was it? That clearly didn't catch on!) I would 100% go with the Batman first, the Pepsi a distant second and the blue and white not even in the running. And it's so weird because the new Aquaracer is clearly an improvement on the old one technically and yet I am yet to find one I really want to buy.
JIM: Ah yes I remember you were certain at one point that this was the next watch for you. But I agree completely, something about how it all came together when on wrist just 'fell off', for lack of better words. I have always been a fan of the WAY201F Pepsi Aquaracer, which remains my favourite GMT ever from TAG Heuer. The Batman is very nice too but if I had to choose it would be the Pepsi. Not sure why, those colours on the aluminum bezel insert just look killer, perfect combo with the black dial.
I wish we had a proper insider in TAG Heuer who could give us some insights on how good or bad these new releases actually sell. I can't imagine this new GMT flying off the shelves in boutiques and AD's. On the other hand, GMT watches seem to be extremely trendy right now. Seiko releasing its 500 dollar cheap ass GMT and releasing that movement to third parties has suddenly flooded the watch collector space with GMT fanatics. I guess I like GMT's overall, but mainly from a design standpoint. It adds something different to the look of a watch, but I would never, ever need the actual function.
You own GMT's, did you have any motivation besides 'looks cool' when you bought yours?
ROB: Nope. And even when I did go abroad that one time I wore my Heuer 01, haha. But my 1500 GMT looks cool, the red hand against the white dial and the steel bezel. I have been told it's worth a lot more than I paid for it, but I don't think I will sell that one any time soon. Could do with having a mechanic look at the date wheel at some point as it doesn't sit well in the window.
But yeah, it does seem like the GMT is the new trend, and I can't help but wonder why. Surely most of it is looks-driven (which makes the debate over true GMTs versus caller GMTs somewhat moot, although I appreciate the advantages of the true GMT), I mean TAG have the Autavia GMT, the Twin Time Carrera and the GMT Aquaracer... I wonder how long it will be before we get a Monaco with a GMT function?
JIM: Monaco GMT? I wonder what that would look like. I have a feeling I will dislike it. But as they say, you shouldn't judge a girl til you know if she will date you or not.
ROB: Well maybe not, but at this point you can't rule anything out.
ROB: Okay so let's turn back the clock and revisit one that we completely forgot about in the first part of our look back on 2022, the Carrera Plasma. Now, as I'm sure you remember, this was TAG Heuer's return to high end jewellery/watchmaking after quite a break since the likes of the Lady Diamond Fiction and to a lesser extent the Link Lady Diamond Star; both of which predated this blog by a number of years.
This model saw TAG Heuer working in partnership with Lusix, Diamaze and Capsoul who produce lab grown diamonds to very exacting dimensions, which TAG Heuer then fitted into the sides and edges of the Carrera Plasma's case. It also featured a tourbillon and a diamond coated dial, and if I remember correctly a price tag somewhere around the $250,000 mark. I know you like a diamond or two, so this must have been right up your alley, right?
JIM: Yes I am a fan, no doubt. Swiss watchmaking is one of life's most unnecessary things right, it is luxury. And what is luxury? Indulging in expensive, beautiful things which you don't really need. But want, because you feel you deserve it. Therefore it makes total sense that we see diamonds, precious metals, mega high frequency movements, tourbillions and so many other crazy things from Swiss brands. Could I ever afford it? No way, but I love that things like this exist. And in this case, it looks stunning! Isn't the dial also covered in like diamond crust or something like that? It must be hypnotising to stare at in person.
ROB: Sure is, and on top of that it has baguette diamond hour markers and a lab grown diamond crown. All wrapped up in a shy and retiring 45mm case... true baller move from TAG Heuer. How many do you think they will sell? I have a funny feeling it was limited to 10 pieces, but I may have dreamt that...
While we are on the subject of shy and retiring watches, let's turn our attention to a more recent release, the Polychrome Carrera Tourbillon. I think it's fair to say that no one was expecting that!
JIM: Yes, that was an interesting one wasn't it! Got a strong Zenith vibe doesn't it? Makes me feel as if LVMH use the same team of designers and engineers to do the more funky stuff both for TAG and Zenith. If you offered me a free choice of any H02T Carrera I wanted, it would be tough to choose between the Polychrome and the Mario Kart edition. Or perhaps not. I would probably go for the Mario Kart edition. Not probably, I would definitely.
ROB: Ooooh, window shopping... let me look at the TAG Heuer website for a moment (which helpfully has a section for 'Tourbillon' watches). Okay, I think I would have to go for the rose gold and black CAR5A5U or the blue titanium CAR5A8C. If only because the Polychrome one... well, I like it, but I don't know if I would still like it in a year's time. I feel like if I get one chance at a tourbillon I would want something a little more classic, but not boring. The Polychrome feels a bit like a watch for someone who already has a couple of tourbillons and wants something a bit 'extra', but I do like it and I like that TAG Heuer did something a bit crazy.
Yeah there's definitely some style crossover with Zenith, and as we know there is definitely mechanical crossover since Zenith stole TAG Heuer's vibrating silicon movement - which subsequently crashed and burned I believe, so maybe that was a good thing...
JIM: OK yes, excellent tourbillion choices, I wouldn't be sad getting those too!
ROB: Okay, let's turn out attention to the Porsche collab Carreras, two pieces were available: one in blue/white and steel and one in gold with red highlights and a red strap. Which one was your favourite?
JIM: Two Porsche watches this year? Now you're surely remembering wrong. There was this big 42mm silver white dial with blue details, it came on a funky white strap with a painted Carrera logo on the side. I think this was a proper collaboration watch! Not my cup of tea, and for sure that blue Carrera paint on the case will hold up as good as those red painted Heuer logo casebacks we saw on for example CV5110, but still I'm a fan of this watch.
Now tell me about that alleged red gold Porsche watch with a red ladies croc strap. I guess it must have been so bad that my brilliant brain decided to erase it from my memory.
ROB: Haha, actually we're both wrong, there were three Porsche Carreras this year.... we forgot about the black PVD one with the yellow highlights! Or did we cover that in part one?
But yes indeed there was a rose gold Carrera with a white dial and red highlights and I have tried it on. It's nice, I really like the gold tone, but it seemed super small to me... like 39mm small. But again, twenty grand, that's just insane.
JIM: Oh so it is not even gold, it is lady rose gold! Now I remember. Can't believe you like that thing.
ROB: I don't particularly like the dial, but the case and strap are nice enough...
JIM: I would never, ever spend that kind of money on something like that. This kind of money could get me five other super nice watches I actually like!
ROB: No, me neither...
JIM: One thing to add is I think it is kind of a brilliant move by TAG to make collaborations with Porsche like this. Is there any human on earth who doesn't know what Porsche is?
ROB: True... but it still ain't Ferrari, and never will be. I feel like Porsche isn't really what it used to be either, if someone told me they had a Porsche and then it turned out they had a Cayenne I'd be like 'Oh, so not really a Porsche then... shame.' At least Ferrari's 'Shooting Brake' models are still essentially proper Ferraris, not 4x4 shitters.
Okay so I just checked and we didn't talk about the other Porsche Carrera with the yellow highlights. I really liked that one, I actually liked the first version of that, but I like the yellow one better. It reminds me a bit of those old black and yellow Grand Carrera Calipers that Bicester Village had forever... they were reduced from £7k to £5k and they still couldn't shift them, but they were pretty darned cool all the same...
JIM: Wow it feels like forever since that watch came out. I would definitely have guessed 2021 if you'd asked me. Totally see what you mean about the resemblance to that Grand Carrera look so it makes sense that you like it. I think for me, this just falls into the empty space of 'meh' releases. I understand why it exists and I can see why people like it but it just doesn't excite me the slightest. The steering wheel looking rotor is kind of cool though and I am a fan of the arabic numerals. Can't really go wrong with a blacked out case either I suppose. I don't know, it just feels like playing it very safe using a recipe of an old classic we have seen so many times before. Nothing wrong with that, just not exciting for me.
ROB: Yeah, I had to check it was actually 2022 too... it does seem a hell of a long time ago! Back when it looked like Charles LeClerc might win the Championship (haha), so that shows you how long ago it was.
What else do we have, well I know you are itching to talk about the MarioKart watches so let's go there next...
JIM: Mario Kart and TAG Heuer, two of my favourite things in life! With that in mind, I suppose I should love these watches huh. I am quite the fan of the tourbillion, having those symbols rotating with the tourbillion is so freaking cool. All in all a perfectly executed limited edition for fans like me.
The calibre16 on the other hand just left me with a sense of missed opportunity. It is nice for sure, but nice in the same way you could say that the cheap Skoda you pass by in the street has a nice shade of blue. I love the date wheel with symbols, the engraved caseback is super cool. The patterned dial is kinda good. But... that ridiculously tiny Mario on a kart symbol on the running seconds sub dial. If only... they would have made it face the other way and put it on the seconds hand. This way you would constantly have Mario racing in circles around the sub dial when the movement is running. This would have been the thing turning this watch from very cool to perfection!
ROB: Yeah, I'm not a Mario acolyte unfortunately, so these watches have limited appeal to me. I did like the overall aesthetic of the Calibre 16 and I agree they missed the chance to make Mario drive around the seconds subdial... but my lasting impression was that I would like the watch better without the decoration on the dial and the MarioKart text on the bezel, it would look great with just the checkered dial I thought!
As for the tourbillon, well... I struggle to see who this is aimed at. Rich people who like Mario, clearly. But when I look at the price I would certainly choose a non-Mario tourbillon for my wrist. But I guess it's fun, if clearly out of the reach of most Mario fans looking for a branded trinket. I can't help but think they could have made a quartz F1 alongside the Calibre 16 and sold thousands of them... or maybe that's for next year?
JIM: Yes, a quartz F1 with some fun animation or quirk on the dial would be an instant hit. I'm picturing a bright blue bezel with an intense Nintendo red dial. And the indices could be different Mario Kart symbols.
ROB: Yeah, it doesn't feel like they hit the mark with the colours, but maybe they think red and blue would go better on a Formula 1?
ROB: So, um, speaking of expensive and hard to get watches.... what about the limited edition 'Cortina 50th Anniversary' jade-dialed, solid gold Carrera?
JIM: Are you seriously asking my opinion on this thing? Let me put it this way, do you think there is any person who looks at that thing and thinks "how amazing, I must pay more than 20k to own one"? Maybe a jade dial is brilliant in person? I don't know, don't think I've ever seen one, but in photos I kind of hate it.
Is this when you reveal that it is your favourite release this year?
ROB: Ha, no no no. To be honest I still don't really know what I think of it, I would love to see one in real life, but obviously that's not going to happen. But I thought it would appeal to you... all that gold and blingy jade, seems like something right up your alley. But apparently not.
JIM: Yeah you would think so but no. My taste is more towards high polished steel, popping silver, diamonds, rainbow diamonds, two-tone.
ROB: So we are coming to the end now, just two more watches to discuss, first we have the gold panda Carrera, or, as we briefly Christened it on the THF Forum - the NOT JH90. I gotta tell ya, in the renders I thought this thing was a bit of a dog, but photographs suggest it's actually rather nice... I mean, totally out of my budget, but still pretty sweet looking!
JIM: I'd say that the jade gold shitter was the total dog. The not JH90 gold panda Carrera on the other hand was a super sexy little thing. I would not mind hitting that, as the young folk say. Imagine me getting really old, like turning 40, this would be a perfect example of a piece I could see myself buying to mark such occasion. Luckily I have many years left before I get that old.
ROB: Sadly I cannot say the same, my 40th birthday was a long time ago. What's that saying again... 'Youth is wasted on the young'. Very true that.
JIM: You say now that something like this is out of budget for you but dude, just look at your journey this far. I don't think it is impossible to think in ten years you'd be rocking something in this price range?
ROB: Hmm, well.... I guess it could happen - technically speaking, like if I inherited some money or something, but I really don't think so. In ten years I will be focussing on my pension and wondering how many more mornings I have to get up and go to work.... haha. You, on the other hand, have discovered watch collecting at a much younger age so in fact you are the one with time on your side. Besides, I don't think I would ever feel comfortable wearing a gold watch, apart from anything else I would be scared to death of scratching the damned thing, especially since gold is so soft.
Okay, so let's turn our attention to the final release of 2022, the Watches of Switzerland limited edition panda dial Carrera Elegant. The forum was falling over itself to praise this one, at least until it emerged that maybe this wasn't the only panda on the horizon... but you gave it quite a low score. So what's up with dat?
JIM: I gotta be completely honest with you. I am yet to fall for the 42mm elegance Carrera. I don't know what it is but I have never desired that line of Carreras. In some sense it feels like a product designed and produced to attract as many casual buyers without offending anyone's taste ever. And honestly, now they just made a panda version of it and my balls still don't tingle. At all. I think at this point, old men who fancy the Heuer from 60's and 70's are so thirsty for a new panda that they get blinded by their desire. In ten years time I think most collectors will have written this thing off as just another far from perfect, too big, lame attempt from TAG Heuer.
ROB: Well, I gotta be honest with you, I'm not crayzee for the Elegant Carrera either. I've tried a few on, but it feels a bit too... 'Elegant' for a chap like me. A bit too grown up. I may be 53 but in my soul I'm still in my 30s. That said, I do think the panda dial brings a bit of exuberance to a slightly fuddy watch, but is it the panda everyone really wanted? Like you, I expect once the REAL panda arrives this will swiftly be downgraded, just as well there's only 250 of them out there...
Okay, so that concludes our look back on the TAG Heuers of 2022 (unless they spring a surprise December release on us of course), I hope you enjoyed it and thanks to Jim for joining me for this post. Jim will of course be back for our Watches and Wonders coverage in April (although I hope we will see him again before that), I wonder what TAG Heuer will have in store for us then?
OTHER POSTS FEATURING JIM DOLLARES:
My Love Affair with the Heuer Carrera 160th Anniversary LE:
Watches and Wonders 2022:
Tudor Black Bay 58 Buying Experience:
Is Trying on Expensive Watches a Good Idea?
First Impressions of the Hodinkee Dato 45:
Feature - Gulf Watches
Five Years of TAG Heuer and Red Bull Racing:
Carrera 160th Anniversary Buying Experience:
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