Saturday, 25 May 2024

ON THE WRIST: KITH Heuer Formula 1 Re-Issue Quartz Watch

WA121F.BA0023

TAG Heuer Outlet / Bicester Village, 11th May 2024

Now don't get excited... clearly they didn't have KITH Heuer Formula 1s for sale at the Bicester Village outlet store, but one of the staff there was wearing one and so luckily I managed to get a quick look at it. Unfortunately I couldn't actually try it on as it had been sized to fit the owner and it wouldn't go over my hand, but even so, it was great to actually see one in person and I feel like I can now make a much more informed judgement on the quality, etc.

To be honest, this particular model wasn't my favourite of the ten pieces released, but even so I can see that it's well made and I do think the 'eggshell' dial works even if it is 'pretending' to be a lume dial. The problem presumably is that back in the day these were tritium dials and of course they can't use tritium anymore. Could they have achieved the same effect with a creamy Superluminova? I guess, but then it would have cost more and the pricing structure would have been even more complicated than it already was, so maybe this was the best solution - even if it was a compromise.


I can honestly say the bracelet on this one is leagues apart from the ones produced in the 1980/1990s, not just the finish but the tolerances and the overall feel is greatly improved. Honestly anyone who can hold this and claim that TAG Heuer should be knocking these out for £400 is a complete moron. Yes the bezel is still plastic (actually Arnite) but that aside the watch is made to the same quality as any other entry level TAG Heuer and accordingly must be priced as such.

That said, while I still don't like the 'KITH Heuer' branding or the 'Just Us' script on the dial, the 'Kith & Kin' engraving on the case is so small and insignificant that it really doesn't bother me anymore. In fact if I hadn't already known it was there I'm not 100% sure I would have spotted it at all. 


For sure though at 35mm this watch is still too small for me and as such I would not buy one at any price. In fact I wouldn't be all that surprised if a lot of these end up on ladies' wrists as it seems more appropriately sized to me. As it happens this watch belongs to a lovely lady called Roxie, which is why the bracelet was too small to go over my hand... any of course many thanks go to her for allowing me to see it while I was in the store.  

Now that I've seen one I do hope that TAG Heuer see fit to perhaps revisit the classic Formula 1, but in a bigger size. I think they could have a very good seller on their hands as there must be thousands of people out there for whom these have great emotional draw, but at 35mm I also think a lot of people would be put off. Making a larger size would also keep the 'KITH Heuer' models special and unique, which is obviously something TAG Heuer need to take into consideration when thinking about their next move. 


I saw a few people online asking if the clasps are also branded KITH Heuer and I can confirm they are. As you can see the clasp and bracelet has a kind of bead blasted finish, a bit like the original F1s and the 4000 Series actually. This looks nice, but this could eventually 'polish' on the edges with regular use and there's really not much you can do about that.

Also visible in this picture you can see the clasp has a two button release, quite an improvement over the old fold and click clasps found on the originals!

So yeah, a very interesting encounter for sure, and a very informative one. I must admit my indignation at the bastardisation of the TAG Heuer logo is wearing off a little bit, especially now I understand that this is KITH's modus operandi. I'm not saying I approve, but I guess in 10-20 years these will just be one of those oddball releases, like the Hour Glass Monaco or the camouflage Aquaracer. 

Will they be particularly collectible or valuable? That probably depends on whether Kith are still a thing and also whether TAG Heuer make any more 'TAG Heuer' branded ones... but they will certainly be interesting talking points and a neat little wrinkle in the history of the TAG Heuer Formula 1. 

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