Wednesday, 18 November 2020

SPOTLIGHT ON: Heuer 3000 Automatic (LWO 283) Chronograph

132.206

When I visited the TAG Heuer museum in La Chaux de Fonds back in September 2018, one of the watches which made the strongest impression on me was a two-tone Heuer 3000 chronograph. I instantly resolved to add a 3000 Series to my collection, but it proved harder than I expected and it took over a year to find a full sized one in the UK at a sensible price. That first one was a two-tone three hander, which I liked very much, but I still hankered after a steel chronograph.

A year later I managed to acquire a steel 3000 but it was another three hander, and boy did I have problems getting a couple of links to make the bracelet long enough for me to wear! Despite that, I absolutely fell in love with it and it remains one of my absolute favourite watches to this day... but of course the search for the elusive chronograph continued.


I have (very) occasionally seen 3000 Series chronographs for sale on eBay, but they are usually on leather straps (3000s were never officially sold on anything other than bracelets), almost always two-tone or gold and uniformly from Japan or the United States (and as such subject to import taxes). The watch you are looking at here is also situated in the United States, but crucially steel and on its original bracelet and that was more than enough to pique my interest.


Naturally, I would prefer a 'TAG Heuer' version of the watch (even though I know the 'Heuer' badge makes it at least 50% 'better'...) but given how difficult these are to find I would probably have made an exception in this case, and while I have recently discovered just how financially punitive importing from America can be (more on that to follow) to secure a watch such as this I think I would have been willing to take the hit. 

So what was the problem?


The problem, unfortunately, is that this watch was being sold for spares and repairs and furthermore the seller suspects that there may have been water ingress into the case. I must say it was very commendable for him to own up to that, as many an unscrupulous seller would have left that particular detail out of their description and hoped for the best.

Despite that, this watch sold for £540 (with bids from 13 different people) and with import duties and VAT it would have cost me at least £700 and that's before we even talk about getting it working again, which I'm guessing would have cost at the absolute minimum something like £350 and possibly quite a lot more depending on how messed up the watch is inside.


So, reluctantly I had to pass on this one, which grieves me quite a bit..but I really don't want to get involved in a watch that could prove difficult and expensive to own, repair and wear. It's such a shame though, because at 39mm this would have looked absolutely fantastic on my wrist. 

Admittedly I'm not 100% sure whether the packaging is original or not, given that this is a Heuer branded watch in a TAG Heuer branded box. But I could certainly believe that this box (which I've never come across before, incidentally) is from the correct period - the mid 1980, and given that both my 3000s have TAG Heuer on the dial but Heuer clasps I don't find it that hard to believe that TAG Heuer might have despatched an unsold Heuer in a TAG Heuer box.


While the 3000 Series is clearly still influencing the modern TAG Heuer Aquaracer, you might also see something of a similarity to another legendary watch and that similarity actually extends beyond the simple aesthetics. You see, according to this page from 'WatchLegend.com' the Heuer 132.206 uses the same Lemania/Dubois Depraz 2000 chronograph module that can be found in the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak! So if you look at it as a cheap alternative to Audemars Piguet's most celebrated model then at a thousand pounds it's a good option.

But for me, there comes a point where I have to take the view that £1000 could be better spent on something more modern, less trouble and which I know can be repaired if necessary. I mean, does TAG Heuer have spare hands, dials, etc available for a watch like this? Especially if the seller thinks there may have been water ingress...

And on top of all of that, the seller doesn't give the size of the bracelet, and I don't want to go through all tht again. So.... no regrets, keep looking; maybe one day a working piece will turn up with a full size bracelet and a reasonable price tag, maybe?

Monday, 16 November 2020

ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Formula 1 'Carbon Effect Dial' Quartz Chronograph

CAZ101AC.BA0842

TAG Heuer Boutique / Meadowhall, Sheffield, 17th Aug 2020

This was probably the new release that I was most looking forward to seeing up close and personal and while it didn't disappoint me exactly, it certainly didn't grab me by the throat and thoroughly convince me to buy it like I hoped it might. It didn't help that the salesman misheard me and pulled out the bracelet version instead of the rubber strap model that I was hoping to try... but once he'd pulled it out of the cabinet I figured I'd better just go with it since I was going to be trying on quite a few pieces here today and I didn't want to rub him up the wrong way from the start what with them having to sanitize each piece before putting them back!

Strangely, my first reaction to the watch once I got it on the wrist was that it looked 'small', which was odd because at 43mm it isn't and in fact it was exactly the same size as the Aquaracer I was wearing. I can only assume it's an illusion caused by the bright yellow chapter ring against the carbon effect dial, which appears slightly thicker than it really is from some angles because it is reflected in the polished recess that surrounds it. 


You may be surprised to learn that the watch has a ceramic bezel (a step in the right direction for sure), which means you don't have to worry about those pesky scratches. On the other hand it does add to the cost of ownership; this one is currently listed on the TAG Heuer website at £1650, which is £200 more than the new Formula 1 Red Bull Special Edition. On the plus side, when this eventually turns up on Watchfinder pre-owned in a few years at least the bezel won't be scratched up...!


The carbon fibre textured dial (as opposed to 'carbon fibre' dial, an important distinction as the dial is not made from carbon fibre but merely patterned to resemble the lattice weave of layered carbon) looks great and all round the watch is very bold, colourful and rather 'in your face' which is exactly what a TAG Heuer Formula 1 watch should be.

It is perhaps the Formula 1 'Senna' for those with no interest in Ayrton Senna (there are some, apparently), as it carries a similar aura with that bright yellow chapter ring and the carbon fibre dial screams 'motor racing'... come to think of it I don't think there's ever been a 'Senna' watch with a carbon fibre dial, at least not under the TAG Heuer banner (believe it or not for a period of time the 'Senna' name was licensed to other brands besides TAG Heuer before returning to the brand that Ayrton actually wore in 2015), but of course I could be wrong - please let me know in the comments!

CAZ101AC.FT8024

Going in to this I honestly believed that the CAZ101AC was going to be my next watch, but it just didn't trigger that 'got to have it' feeling in my wallet pocket. I don't think it was because I tried on the bracelet version either, although the woeful pressed clasp (yes, that again) didn't help matters. It seems slightly incongruous that they have upgraded the bezel to a ceramic but left in place this penny pinching eyesore, and this on a watch that cost £1650. Truthfully that clasp shouldn't be on any watch costing more than £400, sure it 'works' but it conveys zero feeling of luxury and like the plastic movement holders that TAG Heuer insist on using are an unnecessary own goal providing easy pot shots for the TAG haters out there on the internet.

Having said all that, looking at these pictures the watch still tempts me to give it a second look. Maybe once this current lockdown is over and the shops are open once again, I need to to do just that? And this time I will make sure I try it on the rubber strap, as I intended in the first place.


CAZ101AC.BA0842 on the TAG Heuer website

CAZ101AC.FT8024 on the TAG Heuer website


Saturday, 14 November 2020

INTERVIEW: Otto William (Calibre 11 Forum Member)


Hi Otto and welcome back to the TAG Heuer Enthusiast blog. It's a particular pleasure to have you back as, you probably don't know this... but your first interview is still the most viewed page on my blog (viewed over 1800 times!). In fact if you scoot right down to the bottom of the page there is a list of 'Popular posts' and your interview is right there at the top! How do you explain this huge popularity? Do you have an army of Ottofans out there, or just a big circle of family and friends? :)

Hahaha. I think first and foremost it's your growing T.H.E.B. page that plays the major role. Your genuity and sincerity of love for Tag Heuer can be very contagious.

I am very happy to be back. You can count me as Tag Heuer fans still. That haven't changed.

It is funny how watch collecting can be very different from one person to another. For most, Tag Heuer might be the first serious watch they ever had and things start to branch out from there. For me it was quite different. I found the love for Tag Heuer since my wife (who despite the fact that I told her not to give me a Tag Heuer) gave me Tag Heuer as wedding gift. Definitely Tag Heuer was not my first serious watch. But in the end I became serious about my Tag Heuer collection.

Also many of Tag Heuer (or Heuer for that matter) pieces came from racing or Formula 1 enthusiast. Although I like racing and especially Formula 1, I was very far from being an enthusiast, but after I joined the Calibre11 forum, I started following a thing or two about Formula 1. I even took time to study the rules and the current league position etc. My favorite team? You've guessed it! The one that is sponsored by Tag Heuer or the driver is the Tag Heuer ambassador.

Well, we're very pleased to have you back Otto!


So it's been an odd year this year, what with most of the world being shut down to some extent... but TAG Heuer soldiers on and of course this year we had the celebration of their 160th year, marked by two very different 'classic' Carreras and two 44mm Dato Carreras. So my obvious first question is do you like the anniversary models and do you think TAG Heuer should have / could have done something different to celebrate? Or is the 160th anniversary perhaps a bit of a non event?

Well I like the rather "classic" Carrera. This time around they came with "Heuer02" and "80 Hours" on the dial and while I like the overall look of that watch, I'd still rather have the "Heuer02" and "80 Hours" engraved on the caseback instead of printed on the dial. But it is not the deal breaker for me.

I like the current Dato release but I would prefer it with the "classic" Carrera case instead of the "sport chronograph" case. The 12 o'clock date would be reminiscence to vintage Carrera, this is something that I think they could do differently... but of course, some more avant-garde minded will prefer the newest case.

I can't really comment on the timing of the release. Yes, it is has been a very odd year. I don't think we have ever seen a pandemic on a global scale like this. But certainly the professionals at the headquarters knows something we don't for releasing new product at this time. Maybe the watch market overall is still okay at the moment. I pray we will never see anything close to the "quartz crisis" ever again for the watch industry.

Anyway it is still another decade of milestone for the brand. 160 years! Naturally they would have prepared something special.

In this regard, I am also curious as to what your view is about it as well. Do you think it's a bit of non event?

Umm, well no... but obviously there are those milestones like 100 years, 150 years, then there are those lesser ones like 125 years and 175 years and then you have those inbetween ones. It's clearly too long to go between 150 years and 175 years, especially for an industry that is obsessed with anniversaries of everything from the first man on the moon to the first time Steve McQueen looked cool in a photograph - but, undoubtedly some anniversaries are 'bigger' and 'better' than others.

I think they pitched it fairly well; for the 150th they re-issued the Silverstone, produced a limited edition Carrera and a limited edition Grand Carrera / mobile phone box set... so for 160 years what they've done seems proportionate. It makes you wonder what they will do for the 170th and 175th anniversaries... and indeed the 180th (which will be rather soon after the 175th)?


Speaking of anniversaries, last year we celebrated 50 years of the Monaco (technically about 28 years but whatever...) and your interview was conducted before the completion of the releases. Looking back over that celebration how do you think the pieces stacked up and were you at all tempted to buy one?

I am always tempted to buy a Monaco, even more so the limited edition. But I am realistic and sometimes the limited edition or new releases came in the time when I am not in position to buy a new watch, let alone a rather expensive one like Monaco.

For me, still even now, Monaco is the pinnacle of the Tag Heuer collection. I know, a lot of people would disagree but in my mind that is the way it is. The second Tag Heuer ever that I ever owned was a Monaco. It is no longer mine now, but sometimes I still have seller remorse about it.

Someday I'll find a Monaco that I will never sell. Finger crossed.

Was there one of the five that stood out to you, for good or bad? Jim had some reservations about the red dial 1980s model for example...

Style wise I liked the last one; the black dial without the white inner ring. I always gravitate towards a  black dial watch. I have to be honest though, that last one probably looked the least like a limited edition among the five... so if I have to purchase just for the sake of the limited edition collection then I will choose the first one, the green dial. That one is special in every way and probably it might take a while before that kind of dial, both color and finishing will be seen again, if ever.

Yes, I rather liked the green one. It was such a shock when it was released especially as the leaked images we all saw beforehand showed what looked like a 'brown' dial! It's funny how no one ever talks about the 1999-2009 model (the one with the thick white circle around the dial), it's like it never existed... perhaps because it was the least 'unusual', I don't know?


Moving on, let's talk about your own collection, has there been much movement since our last talk? I know you've sold your gold Heuer 01 skeleton (which I really loved)...

Very much changes for this year only. I officially do not own any Heuer01 movements anymore; sold both on different occasions. I managed to get an Autavia Chronograph and one vintage Heuer 844 Monnin case which I hold very dearly to grail level.

A lot of people love that gold Heuer 01 skeletonized dial. Which makes me wonder why all the fuss about when it was first released? I do miss both of the watches sometimes but I have to look forward. Watch collecting for me sometimes is about evolving and adapting too, as well as sacrifices made along the way. It is truly some sort of path way to find yourself.

Overall I am happy with my collection at the moment. Albeit with little bit of an itch to get some Tag Heuer pieces that I fear it might be out from the catalog soon.

Oh do tell, what are you looking at?

I am looking at Aquaracer ceramic bezel and Aquaracer ceramic bezel Chronograph. Especially at the Aquaracer Chronograph, it might be either discontinued from the looks of it or upgraded into H02 movement. The one that I really like is the Aquaracer Chronograph Grey Phantom already gone from the website and the Tag Heuer boutique in my country also sold their last piece of it.


Ah yes, I know those models well... I always thought the Calibre 5 (WAY218B) was slightly nicer myself and I believe the three hander was a limited edition whereas the chronograph (CAY218B) wasn't for some reason. Not really sure why, but anyway... either would be a nice addition to the collection for sure.

Do you think they will put the Heuer02 movement in the Aquaracer? I'm not so sure, it will push the price point way up. I always think of the Aquaracer as the stepping stone from the Formula 1 range up to the Carrera and making the Aquaracers £3-4000 would be a mistake in my opinion.
 
Yes the biggest concern will be the price after they put the H02 inside the watch. You've seen the trend from Carrera, Monaco and probably will also be the Aquaracer later, but yes I think they will do it. There is something about the Aquaracer that really attracts me, whether three hander or chronograph.

Maybe they could do some kind of special edition, maybe a 500m Aquaracer... perhaps even a modern take on the Aquagraph with the Heuer 02 inside? For sure if the Aquagraph was on the market today it would be £3500-4000 so that could work. But I don't think they would want the regular Aquaracer to be so expensive.

500m Aquaracer with H02 movement will be awesome. And don't forget H02 will give different layout to the subdials, it will give the watch an entirely new look. I think it could work.

Imagine a watch that have everything in one packaged. In house movement, check. Water resistant, check. Rotating bezel, check. Chronograph, check.

Well the Heuer 02 has a similar layout to the Calibre 60 in the Aquagraph, so yes I'm sure it would work. :)

Oh since you mentioned it a 'new' Aquagraph would be an epic comeback if they decided to pay tribute to the not so old. It is your namesake* as well as a very solid watch. Wish I could have got one brand new in a box from the boutique itself, that would have been quite an experience.

(*Aquagraph is my user name on the Calibre11 forum)

You know, I just looked on the TAG Heuer website and there's only a handful of Aquaracer chronographs on there and they are all quartz, not a single Calibre 16 to be seen. Maybe you better snap one up while they are still in the stores!

Yes! This is exactly what I am worried about! If the Aquaracer chronograph is gonna be things of the past I think I will be a bit sad. Okay enough about Aquaracer now, it just makes me want it even more!


Talking of Aquaracers (sorry Otto), one of the most lauded releases of 2020 has been the Aquaracer 'Batman' GMT, with it's gorgeous blue dial. Has the WAY201T grabbed you at all?

Yes. It does looks really well made in my opinion but I already have the blue&red version with black dial, so that's that for me. It would be different if it was a black dial instead of blue dial.

Okay, is that because it's a more 'authentic' Batman with a black dial, or is it like me that you don't think the light blue GMT works so well with the (gorgeous) blue dial? Would you really buy it with a black dial even though you already have the Pepsi or were you thinking to trade 'up'?

With the current price of Tag Heuer recently, I think I can only think about trading up! But it is all hypothetical. I still love the blue and red version as well (I refuse to call it Pepsi or Batman. I think Rolex coined that term and let's just say it is different, the bezel doesn't even share the same shape). I think the dogecagon bezel is what attracted me the most to the Aquaracer line, it's just different and nice.

Speaking of which, I really want to see with my own eyes the Aquaracer green dial with steel bezel. That one didn't even made it to my country before it sold out world wide. Now they have the green bezel with green dial but I still want the previous one instead.

Me too, the green bezel version does not work for me, the bezel insert is so dull it just seems to sap all the life out of the dial. I'm sure the steel version must look so much better, but like you I still haven't been able to find one anywhere... my wife has the green one with diamonds on the dial and the green is fantastic, so, I don't know, I guess we just have to be patient and hope one turns up somewhere.

Well I don't have high hopes if it is from Tag Heuer themselves. Sometimes Tag Heuer make very few of watches that I like, like the Isographs for example! Maybe that's just my luck, but yeah maybe it will turn up from somewhere. Who knows?

Okay, moving on... as you know TAG Heuer has a new CEO in the shape of Frederic Arnault (son of LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault), I wonder if you could have an audience with Frederic what you would like to say to him regarding the company and where you see TAG Heuer going in the future?

I would probably asked him what will be the future for the 'Haute Horlogerie' (cause you always need to write Haute Horlogerie in italic style. It just the way it is. Don't ask.) department at Tag Heuer. Will we see another V4 ? Micrograph ? Etc...

I also wanted to know like if he could choose to take any one brand to lead within the LVMH group, which one will he choose personally and why? Will it still be a watch brand or one of the others ? Will it be Tag Heuer in particular? or Zenith? 

Something like that...

Oh that's a good answer... and it brings me nicely on to my next question!


A few months ago David (Calibre11) posted a photo on the Calibre11 forum of a platinum Monaco V4 that had been worn daily and was scratched and beaten up. As someone who doesn't even wear their Microtimer to work because it scratches too easily, I was horrified to see such a beautiful watch in such a state, but then again maybe this person is very rich and sees it as a 'beater' watch. I wonder what you thought about that?

I am a big believer that watches are meant to be worn and enjoyed. I mean, there's obviously a difference between abusing a watch and wearing it daily. But to be able to wear the watch that you love daily itself is a blessing, rather than wearing a watch but wishing that the weekend would come sooner so that you would be able to wear the watch you love again. I agree there are occasions when it is better not wear a watch, i.e. when you are running and gonna sweat all day it might be better to keep your dress watch with leather strap at home and don't go wearing your your racing chronograph while swimming !

All of that even coming from person with an OCD such as me ;). I used to check my watch all the time for scratches when I just got my first Monaco, but times change. I still wear my watch 'consciously' but now I can accept that it will show "signs of wear" eventually.

You know what is a good therapy that works for me to desensitize the fear of 'signs of wear'? Buy and maintain vintage watches! They usually carry 'battle scars' before it gets into your hand, so you need to learn to accept the not so perfect condition.

Absolutely, I am still a bit 'precious' about my watches for sure, but I am better since I started buying pre-owned. The 2000 Multigraph I'm wearing right now has a chip in the back edge of the case which you can't see when wearing it, and my 500M Aquaracer also has some damage in almost the same place (which again you don't notice on the wrist), but it does make it easier to wear these watches knowing they are already 'worn'... on the other hand it doesn't help when I put on my F1 Kirium that I bought brand new in 2004 and is still almost mint! Hahaha...

And in respect of the guy with the Monaco, on the one hand I wish I could afford to wear a watch like that everyday, but on the other even if I could it would still grieve me to see it scratched up like that so I don't think I could. Maybe it would be different if I was born wealthy, I'm sure if I was I would have a somewhat different attitude to things like that, and maybe there's a lesson there about only owning watches that not only can you afford, but that you can wear without being stressed about wearing them.


Talking of being OCD, here in the UK we've just had to put our clocks back an hour as we move from BST (British Summer Time) to GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) which is a bit of a headache when you have more than a few watches! I was just wondering, firstly do you have 'daylight saving' or time alterations in your country and also when you set your watches do you set them to the exact second like me? And do you align the minute hand with the seconds so that when the second hand hits the 12 the minute hand is on the minute markers exactly, or does it not bother you so much?

We don't have daylight saving in my country, Indonesia. But I know what you were talking about because I used to lived in Australia where they do have daylight saving. I set my watch down to the second like you, that is why accuracy is such a big deal for me. If let's say 3 days from when I started the watch the watch is already too fast or too slow, I will categorized it as "not so accurate" whereas if I can only notice the difference after a week, then I label it as 'fairly accurate'.

Oh by the way I don't own a quartz watch, so I wouldn't have so much headache if there is a change in time like daylight saving. For additional information, normally I rotate my watch once a week manual or automatic doesn't matter.

Since you don't own a quartz watch at least you are spared the irritation of the second hand not hitting the minute markers properly. My wife's watches (and her green dial Aquracer in particular) all seem to have this problem and it would really do my head in!

Okay, since you neatly side stepped my earlier question about Frederic Arnault... is there anything you think TAG Heuer could change for the better, anything that niggles you?

Although I love to see that Tag Heuer have raised their prices and are still doing well, I miss the time when Tag Heuer offered me a very good value for money at entry level price. Now I feel Longines have sort of taken that place.

And finally, we've already spoken about the Monaco a few times during this interview, so now gun to your head - Calibre 11 (obviously) blue dial or Gulf?

Okay, gun to my head, I will choose the Gulf. A harder question will be black dial Monaco H02 or Calibre 11 Monaco Gulf. But let's save it for the next interview!

An excellent idea, thank you again for taking the time to talk to us and hopefully we can have our third interview sometime next year.


LINK TO OTTO'S 2019 INTERVIEW:
http://tagheuerenthusiast.blogspot.com/2019/07/interview-otto-william-calibre-11-forum.html

Thursday, 12 November 2020

FEATURE: How Accurate are my Quartz Watches?

Quartz movement inside my CT1113 Searacer

TRIGGER WARNING: This post may contain pro-quartz and what could be perceived as 'anti-mechanical' sentiment, please approach with caution and if you feel upset have a cup of tea and a biscuit.

While there is always much talk about accuracy in the watch community, it is usually centred around mechanical pieces. These can vary in accuracy from +/-2 to +/-20 seconds per day and still be within the manufacturers accepted tolerances. Seiko are particularly poor in this regard actually, I believe some of their watches can be -20/+40 seconds per day and still be deemed to be running at an acceptable rate!

Quartz watches, on the other hand, are generally assumed to be (and are indeed) way more accurate, with figures of one second a month often bandied about. Indeed many people use a quartz watch as a 'control' when setting and monitoring their mechanical pieces, but there are factors which affect the accuracy of quartz watches (battery life, age, time since last being serviced etc...) so I thought it would be interesting to have a look at how my watches (which span from 1986 until 2018) are performing.

I painstakingly set all my watches to the second when I adjusted them to GMT at the end of 'Summer' two weeks ago, so these results are deviations over the last two weeks. 

Aside from the ones I know have been serviced by the TAG Heuer worskshop (my CG1110 SEL and my blue 2000 WN1112) I would assume none of my quartz watches have been serviced since being bought new (most of my watches have been bought pre-owned).


SIGNIFICANT GAINERS

The worst performing watch of the lot was my yellow/grey 'classic' Formula 1, gaining a total of 8 seconds in two weeks (I do not know when the battery was last changed as I haven't had this one very long).


Second worst performing was my two tone 2000 Exclusive, which I suspect must be coming up to needing a battery, that one gained 7 seconds.


Next up was my 4000 Series which gained 6 seconds, despite me changing the battery very recently.


Then came my beloved yellow Aquaracer Calibre S which gained 5 seconds, again I suspect the battery is due for changing soon with this one, but I am quite surprised that such a modern watch calibre is performing not all that great.


Other gainers were my classic all-black Formula 1 (4 seconds) and my blue 2000 Exclusive which gained 3 seconds (which as I mentioned already was serviced a few months ago by TAG Heuer).

 
SIGNIFICANT LOSERS

Only two of my watches lost any significant time (for the purposes of this post I'm counting that as +/-3 seconds), those being my black and yellow Formula 1 (4 seconds) and my silver 6000 Series chronograph (5 seconds). I've had the 6000 a while and I haven't changed the battery and again the Formula 1 is a recent purchase so I can't speak for the age of the battery in that one either.



THE WINNERS

All my other watches fell within the +/-2 seconds range, but a few were still absolutely dead on and surprisingly none of them are particularly 'new'.

First up we have my CG1110 S/EL which was recently serviced by TAG Heuer.


Then we have my blue three hander 6000 Series, which I changed the battery in myself about a month or two ago.


Finally we have my red case / white dial classic Formula 1 (the one with the dodgy date wheel), which was another recent purchase and as yet has not had a battery change.


So there we are, maybe in the real world quartz isn't quite as accurate as we are led to believe, but even in the worst case here we're still only talking half a second day, which compared to mechanical watches, some of which could easily be fifteen or twenty seconds out after two weeks and still be considered to be running extremely accurately, is pretty impressive. Especially when you consider that that watch is probably 30-35 years old and more likely than not has never been serviced! 

But then of course, quartz watches have no 'soul'... and they aren't connected to eternity, but then it turns out neither are all mechanical calibres. Apparently, some mechanical watches have 'disposable' modules for the chronograph which are replaced at service time, something I wasn't aware of until a couple of weeks ago when Jim Dollares spoke about it on the Calibre 11 forum. 
Which is weird as it rather undermines one of the key arguments for buying mechanical over quartz; that it will always be repairable / serviceable for generations to come. 

Interesting...!


Addendum.

Apparently, my expectations of normal quartz watches was way too high. I'm informed that a non-high accuracy quartz movement (i.e. non thermally compensated) is more likely to be in the order of -10 to +20 seconds per month, in which case my watches are all performing admirably! :)

Tuesday, 10 November 2020

SPOTLIGHT ON: TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 'Mother of Pearl' Japanese Special Edition

 
CBK2116.BA0715

While TAG Heuer are prone to using mother of pearl dials on a lot of their watches, the vast majority of those pieces are ladies models, but this black MOP dial is not without precedent, indeed I was lucky enough to try on a previous version (CV201P-0) of this watch at the TAG Heuer Bicester Village outlet back in July 2018.

I was pretty impressed with that one, and this one looks even better in just about every way possible. I much prefer the less fussy bracelet, and I like that the dial is less fragmented without the inner circle utilised on the CV201P. I've tried on a blue dial version of this Carrera and I was very enamoured with the elegant styling, and of course I am a sucker for the Calibre 16 with its 6-9-12 strangely attractive, if asymmetric subdial layout. 


Costing 555,500 Yen (approximately £4100) the CKB2116 is technically a 'Special Edition' but is in fact limited to just 500 pieces... as always, it's hard to fathom TAG Heuer's use of 'Special' and 'Limited' edition, with some 'Limited Editions' not being limited to any particular number and some 'Special Editions' having definite quantities. If anyone can give a definitive explanation I would love to hear it!


While I'm sure the black mother of pearl dial won't be to everyone's taste, I must admit I do rather enjoy it. It seems like a nice way to go a bit 'decadent' without resorting to a diamond bezel, and I can well imagine this dial capturing one's attention at any time of the day.

The watch looks pretty big in this wrist shot, but it's actually only 41mm which is the same size as the CV201P-0, and that one seemed to wear a good bit smaller than that despite the fairly substantial case thickness. 

All in all it looks like a winner in my book though it's a pity that it's limited to the Japanese market. I guess TAG Heuer know from experience what sells where, but I bet if they put one or two in the Oxford Street boutique they would sell easily enough. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to wait for them to arrive at Bicester Village in a few years... maybe I should start saving now?


On the Wrist post for the CV201P-0.BA0794:

The TAG Heuer CKB2116.BA0715 on the TAG Heuer website:

Sunday, 8 November 2020

BIG NEWS: TAG Heuer Bicester Village Telephone Ordering Available from Tomorrow


Once again, due to the ongoing Coronavirus pandemic and the national lockdown the TAG Heuer boutique at Bicester Village has been forced to close. However, as from Monday you will be able to purchase discounted pieces via telephone or email on Mondays and Thursdays.

Now obviously in order for this to work you need to have some form of access to stock information and to that end I have created a dedicated blog to give you just that. 

Please follow the link below to access this new site, but please be aware that this site is not 'live' (or indeed directly connected to TAG Heuer in any way), so there is always a possibility that items may be sold out.

As far as I know, at present the store can only send to addresses within the UK.


You can contact the store on (01869) 249008 or via email: enquiries.bicester@tagheuer.com


Friday, 6 November 2020

SPOTLIGHT ON: TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T Tourbillon 'Mexico' Limited Edition

 
CAR5A55.XXXXXX

Thus far if you've wanted to avail yourself of one of TAG Heuer's incredibly 'affordable' Swiss-made tourbillon pieces, then you've been stuck with having to accept a 'semi-skeletonised' dial along with it. Now while a lot of people like that aesthetic, there's more than a few who don't and indeed who are glad to see the back of the JCB era skeletonised Carreras (as they do seem to be disappearing one by one).

But now, the opportunity to get a TAG Heuer Carrera tourbillon with a solid dial (save for the cut-out for the tourbillon of course...) is here, albeit in the form of a very limited, 'limited edition' for the Mexican market.


Just 21 pieces of this stunning watch will be available, at an asking price of 572,300 Mexican pesos (which is around about £21,000). The piece is 45mm in diameter and has a matt black ceramic case accented with rose gold hands and hour markers, with additional detailing to the upper chrono pusher and crown.

The CAR5A55's bezel is marked with the text 'Mexico' at the '1' position and carries the Heuer 02T movement which boasts a 65 hour power reserve. The watch is presented on a black leather strap with a rubber back which we're used to seeing on many a Carrera, and without doubt the perfect choice for this particular model.


I should say this is one of the best looking Carreras we've seen in a long time and definitely my favourite tourbillon piece to date. I have a real thing for black and gold Carreras and this one (minus the slightly Marmite gold lugs) ticks an awful lot of boxes... unfortunately at this price it's a little beyond my means, assuming I could even get hold of one if I could afford one!

It's nice to see a properly 'limited' limited edition with a unique feature, although I can't help feeling this won't be the last solid dial tourbillon we see emerging from La Chaux de Fonds. It's a hell of a way to start a new style though and I'm sure this one will get many an admiring glance.


It would be nice to see a more affordable version of this, minus the tourbillon and with the regular Heuer 02, but retaining the solid dial. Perhaps something of that ilk is already underway? If so, 2021 is looking very promising indeed... 

Further reading:

Wednesday, 4 November 2020

BUYING EXPERIENCE: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Quartz Watch

 
381.513/1

I'm sure by now you must be rolling your eyes... after six months without purchasing a single watch, I've now bought five classic F1's on the trot (seven if you include my wife's pieces), and yes I'm afraid it is a pretty familiar story so I will keep this post mercifully brief!

A few weeks ago I bought a yellow/grey model from a Japanese seller called 'Spirit*Age' and I was pretty impressed with the quality of what I got, so I kept an eye on his listings and sure enough something soon came up which piqued my interest.


The 381.513 was one of the early entries in the Formula 1 range and it last appears in the 1991 catalogue. Aside from a little wear to the bezel at the '6' position, this one is in fantastic condition all round. Again, like the other F1 I got from 'Spirit*Age' this one features a much thicker plastic strap than I've found on my other watches. I don't know if this is because this is still the original strap or if for some reason the Japanese straps are made thicker? This one certainly isn't new, it's quite well worn and rounded on the end, but I guess they last longer when they are twice as thick!


After my last Japanese buying experience (my green and black 375.513 bought from 'HH7373' on eBay) I was expecting to pay import tax, but again the watch was pushed through my letterbox with no demand for payment. I'm assuming it has something to do with how 'Spirit*Age' sends the parcel, but I'm not really sure. Still, I'm not complaining.

There is a little wear to the back of the strap where the spring bar goes, not sure what happened there but it doesn't look in imminent danger of breaking. As it happens I have a spare BS0081 in my drawer just in case.


I don't want to say this is the last of my classic Formula 1 purchases, because we both know I can't make that sort of commitment. But buying these has definitely chipped away at the old TAG fund quite significantly, maybe it's time to save again and work up to something bigger, perhaps that Aquaracer 'Batman' GMT I reviewed a couple of weeks ago... or maybe something else?

Monday, 2 November 2020

SPOTLIGHT ON: TAG Heuer Tristar Quartz Watch

 

954.413

This is another one of those eBay tales that could have been a huge disappointment had luck not intervened... I found this a few days ago with a starting bid of £150 and I got rather excited because spectacularly ugly as it is, there's something about the Tristar that appeals to me. Maybe it's because it looks like it was designed to be worn by a Soviet General, I really don't know... but I would like one, despite its obvious shortcomings (not least of which is the puny handset that looks completely out of place).


Admittedly the clasp looks like it needs some attention, but I was more concerned that the bracelet looks a lot like the one on my 3000 Series and knowing that availability of links for these is so scarce I contacted the seller to enquire about the wrist size it could accommodate. The next morning I got a polite response telling me that it was just over 8" plus the diving extension and that was me thoroughly invested and ready to bid.


Perhaps a little too invested, since I completely forgot to check the simplest of details, like the part number! This photo convinced me the watch was all good, I knew it would be on the smaller side because my 3000s are only about 38mm, again completely forgetting that watches generally look bigger in 'wristshots' than they do in real life.

Fortunately I was talking to a fellow enthusiast about my potential purchase and he sent me some info which had the part number in large text at the top of the page, drawing my attention to it.... hmm. 954.413.


For those not au fait with the TAG Heuer numbering system of the 80s and early 90s, it went like this:

Last two numbers - 08: Ladies watch
Last two numbers - 15: Large ladies watch
Last two numbers - 13: Boy's watch
Last two numbers - 06: Man's / full size watch

In my excitement and haste, I had overlooked the fact that this watch was actually a 'boys' watch, which I would estimate would be 34 or 35mm. Granted I am perfectly fine wearing a 34mm resin cased Formula 1, but that is because a) there are no larger options and b) the straps with the TAG Heuer shields on them seem to make those watches wear slightly larger than they are, perhaps also the colours help in this regard as well. 


As it happened a couple of days before the auction ended someone placed a bid, so I knew I wasn't going to get it for £150, and once I realised that the watch was smaller than I thought I started to look at it in a different light. Though I was relieved that my friend sent me the info that prevented another 'smaller than expected' purchase (oh yes, that has happened before!) I was also rather disappointed that I wasn't going to be adding a Tristar to my collection after all...

I guess the price should have been a red flag, but excitement and enthusiasm nearly got the better of me again - it just shows that sometimes a second pair of eyes on a potential purchase can be a very good thing indeed! In the end the watch had two bids and sold for £186, so I'm guessing if I had bid it would have gone into the low £200s... a bargain for an '06', but not for a '13' that would always be a little bit too small.

--- --- ---


I thought I found another TriStar on eBay a week later, but it turned out to be the exact same watch being re-sold (that scuffed up clasp is a dead giveaway). The seller took some better pictures and was upfront about the size, but wanted £299 for it!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tag-Heuer-Professional-tri-star-Rare-Model-Boxed/313279311367