Friday, 20 September 2019

SPOTLIGHT ON: New Arrivals at TAG Heuer Bicester Village

CALL TAG HEUER BICESTER VILLAGE ON (01869) 249008

Once again I am pleased to be able to bring you bang up to date news from TAG Heuer Bicester Village regarding the latest stock to arrive. As always, stock is limited so please call before travelling a long way to make sure the item you are interested in hasn't already been sold. Some very nice pieces in this delivery and that Aquaracer Alarm watch isn't going to stick around very long at £880!


CAJ2180.FT6023
List Price £4350
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £2610


CAR2014.BA0799
List Price £3950
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £2765


CAR2B80.FC6325
List Price £6000
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £4200


CAV518K.FC6268
List Price £6350
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £4445


CAW2114.FT6021
List Price £4350
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £3045


CV201AH.BA0725
List Price £3750
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £2625


WAE1114.FT6011
List Price £1650
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £1155


WAP111Z.BA0831
List Price £1350
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £880


WAT2113.BA0950
List Price £2350
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £1645


WAY1453.BD0922
List Price £4350
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £3045

Wednesday, 18 September 2019

BUYING EXPERIENCE: TAG Heuer S/EL Quartz Chronograph

CG1110-0

Long term readers may remember that I tried to buy a CG1110-0 from 'Birth Year Watches' quite some time ago, the price was reasonable, but the glass had a scratch in it and I know myself well enough to know that I wouldn't be able to 'live with it' so I asked if they could replace the glass. The guy at 'Birth Year Watches' tried his best, he ordered in 2 or 3 crystals but none of them fitted and then he emailed me that there was a problem with the movement and that it would need replacing (which they were happy to do at their cost). Ultimately they said they couldn't get a glass so they would have to sell it as it was (for some reason they aren't able to send to TAG direct, which I don't understand, but that's what they said), and that was the end of that.


So I was scuppered there and being an impatient type I reverted to a two tone model with a white dial I had been scouting previously on eBay. I bought that for £485 (the listing was for £599!) and I've enjoyed that for the last ten months (wow, is that all it is!) but I never gave up on the idea of getting a CG1110 eventually. So I've kept my eye out, but every one I've seen has been lacking in some respect, either the bezel is damaged or the glass marked or on the odd occasion I have found a minty one the price has been north of £750, which is just too much in my opinion.

So I was pleasantly surprised when I found this one on eBay for a Buy It Now price of £400, and even more pleasantly surprised when I noticed the seller was open to offers. As it turned out the seller wasn't 'that' open to offers as I still had to pay £390 for it, but even so... if there wasn't a 'Make an Offer' button I would have paid £400 without much fuss if I'm honest, especially as the bracelet is the perfect size for my 7.3/4" wrist (which is always a consideration when buying pre-owned).


The watch arrived promptly and as ever the post had done their worst and the chrono hands were all over the place, but this was nothing I hadn't encountered before and once I'd pulled out the crown and reset all the hands it all appeared good. Overall the watch was in great condition, with only light surface marks on the case and bracelet (it wasn't until I took the picture above that I noticed the scratches on the back) and the glass was absolutely perfect.


The watch came with the original (black) barrel box and outer box, along with the manual, warranty card, an extra leaflet explaining how to adjust the unusual bracelet (I posted this some while ago HERE) and a spare link. So I was super happy all round, at least until I decided to do my usual check on the chronograph and realised that the (red) minute hand on the chrono didn't move and vibrated when pressing the reset button.

So I contacted the seller and I quickly came to the conclusion that he was a genuine guy who was surprised and probably a bit put out by the news that the watch wasn't working as it should be and as he believed it to be. The upshot was that he suggested I take it to a local repairer, which I did and who seemed to think it was a simple fix that would be done as part of a service.


So the watch went away for a couple of weeks, and when I picked it up the problem remained, so it went back again. This time they wrote on the paperwork what the problem was as the repair centre obviously didn't test the chronograph function... hmm. So another ten days passed and the watch came back again, with a new battery for some reason... but still they hadn't fixed the problem. So off it went again.

As you can imagine, the next time I went to pick the watch up I wasn't exactly overflowing with confidence... and right enough when they handed me the watch the red hand was not at the '12' position and wouldn't reset, but once I'd manually reset it it worked. The relief between me and the man in the shop was palpable.

The tritium lume is very weak, but only expected to last 25 years anyway

The seller promptly paid the £65 repair fee as agreed, but the repair was short lived and the problem returned to normal the following day. With the benefit of hindsight, the smart thing to do would have been to have returned the watch on arrival, but now the seller was £65 out of pocket and I had a watch that worked perfectly (apart from the chronograph), so I decided the best thing to do would be to enjoy my free battery and reseal (warrantied for a year) and then take it somewhere else to get it sorted, and if it costs me for a new movement, well... I'll just have to take it on the chin I guess.

Incidentally, since I missed it yesterday, this is my 1001st post!

Monday, 16 September 2019

BUYING EXPERIENCE: ArmbandUhren Special: TAG Heuer Magazine


This is a bit of an odd one... I came across this on eBay the other day and eventually secured it for £12, which is actually a bit of a bargain in my opinion. This is a 2004 spin off book from the magazine ArmbandUhren, although as it doesn't seem to have a price on it anywhere I'm not sure if it was sold in the shops or what? It's definitely a softback 'book' rather than a 'magazine' with 112 thick pages in full colour and looks like it will be a decent read (thankfully printed in English - the magazine is German).

Some of the content looks a bit familiar, like it's been taken from some of the dealer catalogues I've purchased recently (or possibly the 150 years book?), but there's a feature about Kimi Raikkonen visiting the factory and I've already spotted a thing or two that I've not seen before just from having a preliminary flip through. The seller sent it quickly in a couple of decent envelopes one inside the other and it doesn't seem to have suffered for that. Considering it's 15 years old it seems to be in excellent condition and also has an article about 2000 Aquagraph, which is obviously of interest to me.


I must say I particularly like this Monaco V4 with the blue and silver detailing...















Kimi looks scarily young in this picture and airbrushed to all hell into the bargain! I've always found it slightly incongruous that a multi-millionaire F1 driver like Kimi would wear an entry level quartz piece... I'm sure I've seen Max wearing a Red Bull Carrera more often than his own watches...

Friday, 13 September 2019

ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T Senna Limited Edition

CAR5A91.FT6162

TAG Heuer Boutique / Oxford Street, London, 9th March 2019

It's odd, but I think one reason I haven't got around to writing up this one is simply how disinterested I was while it was on my wrist. Maybe that's partly because I know I can't afford it, but then I know I can't afford the Hublot Golf watch either and I wasn't disinterested in that. Maybe it's because I tried it on by default because there was literally nothing else of interest in the shop that I hadn't already had on my wrist? Again, it's possible... but it's not that uncommon a scenario.


Maybe it's because I was more interested in talking to Aneta (formerly of the Bicester TAG Heuer boutique) about her trip to Bazelworld? Well, maybe... but whatever the reason this one was deeply disappointing, in a way that is entirely inappropriate for a Senna edition, tourbillon costing around £17,000. 

I think it's at least partly due to the new Heuer02 dials. I just don't like them; they aren't skeletal, but nor are they properly 'solid' and I really detest the 'bridge' at the top which holds the TAG Heuer shield. That whole portion of the dial looks downright weird to me and I'm not a fan of the 3,6,9 layout either. In a way I'm glad I feel this way because I bought my Heuer01 Carrera pretty much straight away when it came available and that was a huge investment (not that sort of 'investement') for me, so it would be a shame if I was now hankering after the 'new' version. 

As for this watch specifically, I don't hate it, but for some reason the 'Senna' logo looks a bit garish and a bit of an afterthought at that if I'm honest.


I seem to remember being less than enthusiastic about this one when I first saw it, but it's always worth taking a second look because some watches just don't photograph well and can become an unexpected surprise.... but in this case it really doesn't do anything for me at all, and I am almost at a complete loss to explain why that is.

I think it looks kinda bottom heavy too, like there's too much space around the logo, but then the tourbillon is sitting too far down... seemingly right to the edge of the dial. Nah I think if I want a 'Senna' watch I'll go for the most recent Formula 1 tribute or a classic anni-digi S/EL on a leather strap, this one just doesn't cut it for me.

Wednesday, 11 September 2019

INTERVIEW: Remo (Calibre 11 Forum Member)


Today's guest is another stalwart of the Calibre 11 forum and a proud owner of the original Alec Monopoly Formula 1 watch, lucky beggar... so please welcome 'Remo'!


Hi Remo, could you tell us a little bit about yourself before we get into the questions?

I am born in 1972, 3 years after the Monaco. I live with my wife and one child, two cats and a horse near Lucerne, Switzerland. This town might have the highest density of watch retailers in the world. As a Psychologist and sleep specialist I have not much to do with watches professionally, other than being under time pressure a good deal of the day considering the pretty high workload in the healthcare professions nowadays. Some diagnostic processes involve measuring sleep latency. But I discarded the idea of measuring sleep latency with my TAG Heuer Monaco after I slept on it.



Good one. All the best people have cats by the way, just thought I'd mention that... so how did you get into watches?

Although I was born in a country which is renowned not only for its cheese, and monetary institutions, but also for its high-end luxury watches, I had no special relationship to watches for many years. Quite the opposite: When I was living in a flat share as a student, wearing watches was quite proscribed. It was a sign of allegiance to the establishment. Well, most of us didn’t have the money anyway.

After many years without wearing a watch Smartwatches came along. I liked the idea of changeable watchfaces. In 2014 I bought the first ever round smartwatch (I still have it.): the LG G Watch R, which had a full round screen, compared to “flat tire” screen of the Moto 360. About 2 years later Jean-Claude Biver introduced the TAG Heuer Connected at a press conference in New York. I watched a live stream of this conference, and it was clear, that I had to have it. I thought, it was crazy to spend so much money on a smartwatch. But it was also crazy, to spend a lot of money on smoking cigarettes. I made a deal with myself: I would quit smoking and put my money into watches.

From there I was drawn in the watch world deeper and deeper. The strategy of Mr. Biver worked very well in my case. I am the living proof, that smartwatches are much more a gateway than a threat to traditional watches. Mr. Biver is a kind man by the way. When the TH Connected 46 came out, it was not available in Switzerland for some months. I wrote to Mr. Biver: “How can this be, that I can’t buy this swiss made watch in Switzerland!?” His answer was very compassionate (but I had to wait some more weeks or months anyway).

So the Connected 46 was my first TAG Heuer Watch. It’s not that long ago when it came out, but in the world of smartwatches it is almost a vintage piece already. The TAG Heuer Studio App features the possibility to set an individual background from a personal image as a dial. I loved that feature and I’ve created a lot of personal dials.

Another strong motor of my watch spleen are good books (e.g. “Armbanduhren sammeln” by Bernhard Strom) and DCs calibre11.com of course.


Sounds like a great idea to put your cigarette money into watches, so what was your first, or first good watch?

My godfather gifted me a Certina to my first communion at the beginning of the 80s.  I don’t remember if it was automatic or Quartz, I suppose it was gold plated. For me it was a very good and luxurious watch. It was much too big for my wrist, and I didn’t wear it often.  Somewhere it got lost over the years, which I regret very much today.


Do you have a favourite piece in your current collection?

It’s the Monaco 50th anniversary LE 1969-1979 of course. I had to pass on many cigarettes to justify this one.



Haha, yes... more than a few packets! Given your affinity to the Smartwatch I'm guessing you don't have a problem with quartz pieces then?

Before the intellectual embargo mentioned before I had several fashion quartz watches: I had a Pop Swatch, two Diesel watches and an Emporio Armani. Even if they were inexpensive from todays perspective, I wore them some years. When I was drawn deeper into the watchworld many years later, I developed the need to have them serviced. Fossil, who is the owner of those brands, did a very god job on two of those 3 watches, the third one could not be refurbished. I appreciate my TH Alec Monopoly F1. And then I have two quartz wallclocks: a Mondaine SBB CFF FSS (swiss railway) watch, which is a huge swiss design classic, and an IWC for Mediclinic, which was designed by IWC itself in the Style of the Potugieser, it contains a very cheap chinese quartz movement, with a nice sweeping second.

I hope, that Mr. Biver will not be right regarding the future of quartz watches: I hope, that there will be enough quartz-watch enthusiasts, to keep the production of the batteries and the maintenance of the watches going.


I really wish I had bought the first Alec Monopoly watch when I had the chance... it's so annoying, because the second one has been easy to pick up, but I don't like the design half as much and for me the black background was a winner.  Ah well, do you know what your next piece will be?

When I was at Baselword 2019 I had the opportunity to see the Autavia Isographs, which I am pretty drawn to, especially the Bronze versions, but I don’t like the developing of verdigris. I am pretty sure that I will like the forthcoming watches of the revived Autavia collection. I also like the Bamford GMT. But probably I will go for a used watch. I am scanning some auction platforms often, looking for the bargain of the century.



Is there perhaps a watch that you would like to acquire, if money was not an issue?

For a long time I would have answered this question instantly with ‘Patek Nautilus!’. But today I am more prone to the watches of Vacheron Constantin, since this is the oldest of the still existing Swiss Watch Manufactures; it was founded in 1755 (other sources say it was 1785). The ultimate watch to own for me would be a ‘Philippe Dufour’. This marvelous man is a living watchmaker legend from Le Sentier in the Vallée de Joux. His watches and all parts of them are almost completely manufactured by the hands of the master himself. You see, my aspirations are steadily growing. But the idea of ‘money no object’ itself will possibly remain a sweet dream.


How does your partner/wife feel about your collection?

I am glad, that she does accept it. And she is even very empathic, although she doesn’t have the watch virus herself. But when I buy a new watch, she always tells me, that she likes it and compliments my taste.


How many watches is too many?

Almost all watches I have bought so far had a lot of wrist-time when they were new to my collection. And they made me feel good for a long time. If I won’t get this feeling anymore, or only short-time, this would be the time to look for another obsession.


Have you ever ‘sneaked’ a watch into the house?

No!


I haven't counted but I'd wager more than 50% of my interviewees have... just saying. :)
So if you haven't sneaked one in have you ever bought or sold a watch and regretted it?

Yes, I bought a watch online that didn’t exist. I had to learn my lessons: greed guzzles brain. I also regret to have sold a Tag Heuer Titanium (quartz), which I bought, but the chronograph pushers were defect. I managed to refurbish this one myself, and afterwards I sold it. Every time I see one of them, I get a little feeling of loss.



The titanium is an odd one, to me it looks kind of ugly, but at the same time I could totally understand why someone would like it. It has a bit of Vacheron Constantin about it somehow... 

Are you more excited by re-issues or new pieces?

I am more in the progress-camp. But I also like watches which play the heritage-card, e.g. the Heuer Monza, which received the Revival Watch Prize at the prestigious Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève in 2016, or DCs “Siffert Autavia” of course. I also own two real vintage watches: one is a Certina DS, a present from a good friend, who inherited it from his uncle; he had no use for it anymore, because he was only wearing his Rolex since he got it. The other is a pocketwatch from my grandfather.


Ah cool, I too have a pocket watch from my grandfather. Now a question which usually divides people quite sharply - what are your thoughts on the subject of 'faux' aged lume?

It depends on the watch. I am glad, that they skipped this on the LE Monaco 69-79. But I think it looks very nice on the Autavia Heuer 02 Viceroy Re-Edition.


Why do you think it is that TAG Heuer attracts more than its fair share of negativity?

There are several hypotheses about this circulating the Internet. One is, that TAG made a fashion brand out of Heuer and sold overpriced watches. The watches at the bottom end of the price level are obviously something, that watch snobs with fat wallets can slander on. Often you can also read, that TAG has too many ambassadors or no clear profile or strategy. I think, most of the people who depreciate TAG Heuer are just regurgitating, never having worn or owned a TAG Heuer themselves.


Another subject which stirs debate is the TAG Heuer / Bamford tie up, how do you feel about their collaboration.

It’s a way to give people what they want: a customized piece to underscore their own style and taste. It was fun to be part of their Monaco anniversary story on Instagram.


Are you swayed by ‘limited editions’ and associated packaging?

Yes, but I know it’s a bit of a delusion to think, that limited editions are special... since they are produced more frequently from year to year it seems.



Is there a TAG Heuer / Heuer you really don’t like?

What kind of odd question is this? Seriously: Even when I see pictures of some models which I don’t like that much, I think that they would surely look great in the flesh. What I don’t like, is that they put a fake carbon dial on the latest Aquaracers. That was not necessary and might fuel the Fashion-Brand criticism.


How do you feel about gold and two-tone watches, would you / do you wear them and do you feel comfortable wearing them?

I like them. If I had one, I would surely wear it. Recently a friend of mine had a vintage two-tone Oris Chronograph serviced; it looked fantastic on the wrist!


Is there a Heuer / TAG Heuer that you'd like to see revived?

The Heuer Bund is a very good looking watch. Zenith has a quite similar model with the Pilot Chronometer Tipo CP-2. But I reckon, that they look quite different in the flesh regarding size of the numerals and so on.



Yes, I'm not a massive Heuer fan but I can see why the Bundeswehr is a popular choice, and it's certainly one I would consider.

The celebrations are still ongoing of course, and there's more to come, but if you were in charge of TAG Heuer, how would you have marked the 50th anniversary of the Monaco.

I appreciate the way they organized this party. It’s important, that the other Monaco editions are not devalued. I like the massive steel caseback of the anniversary watches. I would have loved to see them individually numbered. The boxes are a bit simple, even if the retro-design is beautiful. It would have been cool to have the Paradoxical icon book included in a big box, and maybe a blue ray of the Le Mans movie with a 'Making of 'or whatsoever.


That's a cool idea, although it would have required quite a big box! 
So on the Calibre 11 forum there's a semi-constant debate over the Monaco design, where do you stand on the round or square pushers argument?

For quite some time I was hoping, that the anniversary watches will bring the round pusher back. But when you think about it, it might not be a very good idea. They don't match the square design, and they are not aligned with the case. I don’t think they are functional nowadays, when people expect longer and longer lasting guarantees.


So unlike me you're not a single brand kind of guy, and you've already mentioned a couple of non TAG Heuer watches, what else is knocking around chez Remo?

Well, when I saw the movie “All is lost” I had to have this “Redford-Seiko” Seiko SKX175. I wanted to have the right model with the MALAYSIA-Dial, so I ordered this watch from the USA from Sarasota Watch Company; their service was very good. I wore it quite often as a beater watch. But then I thought it’s too nice for that purpose. Because of that I bought me another tough watch: The CASIO G-Shock DW-5600BB-1ER Full Black.



How do you feel about the Hodinkee limited edition phenomenon, and leading off of that, would you like to see TAG instigate some sort of ‘VIP’ club for people who buy regularly with special editions offered first/or possibly exclusively to members?

Well I am susceptible to such hypes. I wanted to buy the Hodinkee Swatch Sistem51. But they would not distribute it to other markets than the US. I was so mad: Another Swiss watch which I could not get hold of was a Swiss citizen (my first heartthrob when I was a kid was even in a garb group, yodeling and doing those silly folkloristic dances)!


And finally, you've already mentioned that possibly TAG Heuer already has too many brand ambassadors, but despite that I am contractually bound to ask you anyway, so; who would you like to see following in the footsteps of Mika Hakkinnen, Leonardo di Caprio and Tiger Woods?

Sébastien Buemi would be a cool recruitment; but he seems to be with AP currently.


Excellent, well... as always, I'd like to thank you for taking the time to do this interview, it's much appreciated and I know this feature is popular with my readers so hopefully in the future we can do this again!

Monday, 9 September 2019

ON THE WRIST: Hublot Unico Golf / Classic Fusion Black Magic / Big Bang Black Magic


Hublot Boutique / Harrods, London 9th March 2019

Oh wow, my trip to London in March seems such a long time ago now and I still haven't quite got round to writing up all the watches I tried on that day (well there was about 20!). I'm pretty sure this is the last of them, and it's only taken me six months... and no doubt in six months I'll be doing it all again (though I probably won't be bothering going back to the Seiko or Omega boutiques, for completely different reasons mind you).

So yes, it was the end of a very long day and Rich and I found ourselves in Harrods, and more specifically in the Hublot boutique. Our salesman's name was Mahmoud and he was most friendly and spent an inordinate amount of time talking to us (it was a quiet evening it must be said) and was more than happy to show us the watches, which was excellent, especially after having to deal with the guy in Selfridges earlier that day (see my review of the Breitling Exospace).

Hublot Classic Fusion Black Magic 510.CM.1170.CM

The first watch I tried on was the Hublot Classic Fusion Black Magic, which looked a lot more interesting in the cabinet than it did on the wrist and even then it didn't look that exciting to be honest. The main reason I picked this one was because it was similar to a watch my wife had pointed out on our last visit (a ladies model) as one she liked the look of. I have to say the increase in size to a man's watch didn't play in it's favour as the piece looks and feels overly large on the wrist, very flat and the dial very empty. 

I don't think Hublot's strength is in 'subtlety', surely if you're a Hublot fan you probably want something a little 'louder'. It's like buying a Lamborghini and then asking for it in dove grey, it just doesn't make any sense. I think the other thing was that it was quite matt, whereas I'm sure the ladies version was a lot more polished, and again this made it look rather dull. This one is 45mm diameter, which to me is too big for a watch with no sub-dials and assuming it hasn't changed in the last six months the price is £10,400. Definitely not the Hublot for me I'm afraid.

Hublot Big Bang Black Magic 301.CI.1770.RX

The Big Bang Black Magic Chronograph does have subdials and is also 1mm smaller at 44mm, as such the proportions work much better in my opinion. The carbon dial looks great and this one manages to be a bit more 'in your face', without going totally overboard. I don't like the crown in silver, I think they should have black coated it (and the pushers for that matter) but it's not too bad since it complements the silver screws around the dial and on the end link for the strap.

This is not a small watch and it wears similarly on the wrist to the first model, albeit I much prefer the flexibility of the rubber strap. I would definitely choose this one over the Classic Fusion, but at £13,000 (March 2019) there's other Hublots that appeal to me more for less money.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf 416.YS.1120.VR

I don't play golf, but if I could afford to buy this crazy looking watch I might be inclined to take it up! This was hot off the presses when I tried it on and if the other two Hublots I tried on today were slightly understated then this one goes all the way over the top. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf is definitely one for the man who wants to be noticed with a 45mm diameter carbon case, yellow highlights and a very cool two tone rubber / white calf leather strap, not to mention a 72 hour power reserve and 100M of water resistance.

The 'golf' function works using the pushers you would normally associate with a chronograph. The top (yellow) pusher is pressed every time you make a shot, while the bottom pusher is depressed once you have finished a hole and moves the 'hole' indicator on to the next number. The counter at the 6 position keeps a running total of all your shots. If I remember correctly the pusher that looks like a golf tee at the 8 position resets the scores to zero and the hole counter back to 1.



It's a super-cool looking watch and I really loved it, but unfortunately at £26,000 (Mar 2019) it's a tad out of my league. Chrono 24 has eleven of these for sale, but even there the best price on offer is more than £18,000, which is still way too rich for me, especially as (I think I already mentioned) I don't even play golf!

Definitely one with 'fiddle factor' this one, and I'm sure it could be used for other things beside golf (though admittedly nothing springs to mind), but not really one for someone who wants an 'only' watch as this is pretty brash and bold and not exactly versatile. Still, watching that (rather hilarious) video made me remember just how much I enjoyed trying this on and just how cool it looks on the wrist.