ON THE WRIST: Visiting the Breitling Boutique at Bicester Village

Breitling Boutique / Bicester Village, 4th December 2019

If there's one brand that's most likely to tempt me to purchase a non TAG Heuer watch, it's Breitling. On the whole I'm not a huge fan of their product range, but there are a few that really appeal; some Avengers, the Avenger Hurricane and in particular the Analog/Digi watches like the Aerospace, Exospace and the B50 Pilot.

But the first thing that really caught my eye upon entering the very stylish (it must be said) boutique, was a display of three 'Emergency' watches to the left of the doorway. These are some serious pieces of kit and also very large at 51mm in diameter. I asked the sales lady if I could have a look at the mot expensive of the three pieces, and was told I could but she had to get someone who was trained to show it to me because she wasn't allowed to get it out of the cabinet. Fair enough; the last thing we need is the coastguard / mountain rescue rocking up at the Village asking 'Which idiot pulled the crown out on their Breitling Emergency?'

So I was introduced to Catalin, a friendly guy who was interested in (and perhaps a little surprised by) my knowledge of the brand, given that I don't own a Breitling, and curious as to what was in the TAG Heuer bag I was carrying... and the red dial S/EL I was wearing. Catalin was the guy who could show me the Emergency, and so I sat down in the leather chair at the leather coated table and had a glass of champagne from a stitched leather champagne flute (okay I made that last bit up).

Breitling Emergency

V76325G6-C931

Man this thing is HUGE. I mean I knew it was going to be big on the wrist but I simply wasn't prepared for this. The biggest watch I've ever tried on was a 50mm Oris Diver and that was remarkably wearable... this on the other hand is hilariously oversized. But as Catalin pointed out, this is a serious tool watch used for serious exploring and things of that nature, and he's got a point - you can get 95% of the aesthetic for half the price, just by switching to a less hardcore version of the same / a similar watch. But as it stands this Emergency was on offer for £10,080 (down from £15040), or approximately a third off the list price.

(Incidentally, I think the picture above is not quite the right one, the mother of pearl on the V76325G6 is white/silver not blue, but it was the nearest I could find).

I really like the Emergency and the idea that you can summon help just by pulling on a crown is pretty cool, but I just can't seriously imagine an occasion when I would wear a watch that is so colossal and at the end of the day £10,000 is some serious investment... which could probably secure a pre-owned Carrera tourbillon! But I can't help but snigger at the 'mother of pearl' dial, I mean it looks fantastic, but it does rather undermine its 'Manly Tool Watch' credentials. I guess if you're hanging off a mountain somewhere with a broken leg, waiting for help to come, then at least you've got something pretty to look at... :)

Thankfully the Breitling boutique had a much more affordable option in a rather unusual and eye catching colour to boot!

Breitling B50 Cockpit

VB5010D3-L530

While the Emergency was somewhat comically excessive in its sizing, this 46mm B50 Cockpit was surprisingly compact and wrist friendly; so much so that I actually thought it might be 43-44mm in diameter! This piece also comes with a mother of pearl dial, this time in green, which I found rather splendid and unusual, especially matched with the green rubber strap and blacksteel case.

I've always admired Breitling's rubber straps, especially the ones with the branding on them and the ones on these two watches were excellent. Similarly, the clasps are exceptional and really do convey the feeling that this is a top notch watch. If I ever get a Breitling in my collection I can absolutely guarantee that it will be on one of these straps, they really are the business.

I didn't enquire as to the functions available on the two watches, mainly because I will never use them. As I explained to Catalin, I already have the TAG Heuer Chronotimer because the analog / digi dial is appealing (and because you can pick them up for less than £1000!) and I rarely use the functions on that, so to waste Catalin's time asking him to go through everything the watch can do is a bit unfair. I dare say this can do a whole lot more than the Chronotimer, but for me the value is in the overall look and with its chunky but very sleek blacksteel case this is definitely a winner for me.

The B50 Cockpit is also available covered in black diamonds!!!

The only sticking point (of course) is the price, which although significantly discounted (£4930 down from £7360) is still a whole chunk of money for me to drop on one watch... and I still don't know how I feel about corrupting my otherwise pure collection with a non-TAG Heuer. My wife has nine TAG Heuers and one Oris, and while it's a beautiful piece, I still don't really feel it 'belongs' in my house!

From what I was told in the boutique, it sounds like Breitling is looking to take it's brand back in house as far as distribution goes, which is probably not a bad idea really. It would make a lot of sense for the brand to pull back from the mass market and make itself a little more niche and desirable instead of chasing the run of the mill watch buyer.

Personally I'm not a fan of Breitling's direction of travel when it comes to design, 'Retro' styling is all well and good, but sooner or later the wheels are going to come off that bandwagon and people are going to want something 'new', and I must say I find the Aviator 8 watches rather unlikable and the Aviator Super 8 incomprehensibly ugly. Still, when Breitling do get it right they make a very nice watch, I just hope the ranges that I like aren't going to be decimated as the brand streamline their product range in the name of retro chic.

As for the boutique, there are definitely bargains to be had here... but that's probably just as well given Breitling's notoriously spongy value retention in the pre-owned market.