CBN2044.FC8313
A slightly perturbing release this one, and as you will read in the C.O.C.O. comments below there is some considerable confusion about whether this is intended to be a JH90 (to celebrate Jack Heuer's 90th birthday) or not. Unlike the JH88 released in 2020, this has no reference to Jack, no engraving on the back or signature on the back of the strap, indeed this isn't even a limited edition! And while TAG Heuer have issued photos of Jack wearing the watch, and declared the piece 'crafted to celebrate our honorary chairman', truth be told he doesn't look overly enthusiastic about it...
Meanwhile the watch also seems to be being played (by the media at least) as a sort of unofficial tribute to the John Player Special Lotus F1 cars of the 70s and 80s... all very confusing and convoluted and, if there is in fact no actual JH90 watch to celebrate Jack's landmark birthday, rather disappointing. But for now let's stay positive, maybe this is something of a red herring and there is actually something truly desirable around the corner for those of a more 'vintage-inspired' persuasion.
And also let's not let this uncertainly cast a shadow over this release, because taken on its own merits there's a very strong case for crowning this as the TAG Heuer 'Watch of the Year' before the voting has even started. For some time I have been unsure where my vote was going and was looking forward to sifting through the 2022 releases before deciding where to go, but now I feel like that may be rather unnecessary.
This watch is stunning, and actually it pleases me to think that this isn't yet another pesky limited edition. I mean, this isn't something I could afford, but I'm glad that if someone sees this as their dream watch and could afford it 'given time' they will have the opportunity to save for it (or sell as many pieces as they need to make it happen) rather than being forced into making a rash and potentially financially risky purchase for fear of missing out.
Having tried on the similarly sized rose-gold Porsche Carrera recently I think this is perfectly sized at 42mm (though I know many would prefer 39/40mm) and there's no denying that combination of black and gold. It just works. I also feel this is a vast improvement over the rather dour dark grey dial tone of the old solid gold Calibre 1887 model which never really impressed me that much if I'm honest, though I did prefer it to the off white model if I remember correctly.
As ever, this watch is powered by the ubiquitous Heuer 02 movement featuring 80 hours of power reserve and visible through the display caseback. One slightly curious thing is that the black alligator strap is secured with a basic (albeit gold) pin and buckle which seems a little out of place on a watch that costs £17850, but then the gold Porsche Carrera watch had the same and that costs considerably more (if anyone can explain that £2000 difference to me, I would be all ears...).
Personally it wouldn't bother me as I quite like the simplicity of a pin and buckle, but I feel like some might find it strange when more affordable pieces feature the more secure deployant clasp system. I suppose a gold deployant would be very expensive and a steel one would spoil the overall effect... kinda like how they used to put plain steel clasps on black watches, I never liked that one bit!
This is clearly something of a home run from TAG Heuer, in a year when they've produced some good watches but nothing truly exceptional. Judging by the comments I've read on the THF Forum (and below) I'm guessing this will be scoring extremely well in the end of year poll and will also be in with a very strong chance of securing the ultimate prize. We won't have too long to wait to find out; the 3rd Annual C.O.C.O. Watch of the Year will be announced on the 27th of December and I for one will be shocked if this doesn't come out on top (unless TAG Heuer release something monumental in the next few weeks of course, which I feel is a little unlikely now we're half way through November).
It would be nice to think we will see the CBN2044 in the major TAG Heuer boutiques at some point. If it isn't a limited edition then it seems like a possibility at least... but for now, let's find out what the Council of Considered Opinion have to say, and as I said before, please bear in mind that when these comments were made we were somewhat under the impression that this was an official 'JH90' Jack Heuer birthday watch.
9/10: "9 for me, the gold and black look so nice. Will be my vote for WOTY."
9/10: "A superb release. I would score it 10 if it was 39 mm. Now I give it a 9. Wonderful case, great dial, sexy sub dials."
8/10: "I love yellow-black combinations. Would have been a 10 for me. But the price, it's too much of a premium for that amount of Gold."
5/10: "Too dear for a TH, not special enough? Maybe to see it on my wrist might change my view, but, lots out there at that price point."
6/10: "Looks good. Generic 42mm case looks like it's the norm now. Would have been nice in a 39mm case. Don't like the Tag Heuer on the dial. If it's inspired for Jack it should be Heuer only."
5/10: "Quite a statement piece really - a 42mm gold sports watch. Personally I feel that gold should be reserved for more dressy pieces, but this does have a certain amount of class. Just a shame it's not a bit more classic in size as it's going to be more at home on a rap star than in an office environment. In any case, the price is way out of my league and if I did have that kind of money to spend on a watch, I wouldn't buy this. But I quite like it. Given how much on the fence I am with it, I think a 5/10 is fair."
8/10: "I like this pure black & gold combo, JPS style. But again the croc strap is there, and I don’t like it in a chronograph Carrera, even being a gold Carrera."
11/10: "Stunning. Absolutely stunning. This is truly worth of the JH name, I just wish I could afford it."
9/10: "Great looking Carrera, well done TAG Heuer. I think the gold works well with the black dial."
7.5/10: "I love the black and gold look, giving it a very classy and elegantly timeless look. Hard to find a fault with this one."
8/10: "Visually 8/10 for me, if they introduced a rubber strap, it would be on pair with Moonshine and Daytona and near 9/10. Everything works well."
7/10: "Swayed by ultimately not being a gold watch fan."
8/10: "A beautiful watch, much nicer than I expected. However, I feel the JH88 was more special. It had the 88 on the dial, special case back and Jack's signature on the strap. If a dedicated JH90 isn't released, we will all think of this one as the unofficial JH90. But it has no markings nor any specific press that says it is "officially the JH90". Only that it pays tribute to Jack Heuer."
8.5/10: "It's nice, actually pretty damned nice but it would have been even better if it had been rose gold and not yellow gold....."
7/10: "Looks nice and an elegant color combination. Would have been an 8/10 or maybe even a 9 if they could just get over themselves with that horrible running seconds they keep ruining dials with."
8.5/10: "It's pretty good. I am not a gold-watch person and that's why I cancelled my pre-order. I agree with much of what has been said by others in terms of design and price. That said, if this is not meant to officially celebrate Jack's 90th birthday, then the hope for a truly dedicated watch lives on. So I would anticipate something else to be revealed in the next month or so. My bet is that it will be what many of us have been waiting for."
6/10: "I feel that the way this watch is presented is half-baked. It's a mystery whether it was simply a celebration of Jack Heuer's 90 or an homage to Lotus' coloring. As a watch, I would have preferred a combination of rose gold and black."
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