WBP201B.BA0632 WBP201C.BA0632 WBP201A.BA0632 WBP208B.BF0631
A new watch launch is a rollercoaster ride, especially when it's the replacement of an iconic model such as the TAG Heuer Aquaracer. Pre-launch, and with only renders to go on, my expectations were low - I really didn't like them. But then the TAG Heuer website countdown came to it's conclusion and Mr Arnault and Mr Bove stepped out to present the new Aquaracers and they looked a lot better than I expected (the watches I mean, not Mr Bove and Mr Arnault - to be honest I found Frederic's super white trainers massively distracting but I guess he can wear what he likes).
Two things in particular struck me in the presentation that weren't apparent from the renders: 1) the new bracelet has a sliding clasp with 15mm of adjustment, and 2) the cyclops is now either under or 'inside' the sapphire crystal, I'm still not sure which it is... I'm pretty sure Mr Arnault said it was 'etched into the glass' but either way the point is that unsightly lump is gone. Hurrah!
The sliding clasp is a really positive step forward for the new model and brings it into line with some of the Aquaracer's competitors (the Tudor Pelagos springs immediately to mind, though thankfully without the unsightly groove in the clasp's upper face) and of course Rolex, who were the first, to my knowledge, to introduce a sliding/adjustable clasp with their 'Glidelock' system. Incidentally this clasp is also available on the new blue and black rubber straps that are coming for these new pieces but are not yet showing on the website (photos of these can be found on Calibre 11 - see link at the bottom of the post).
The new case has had additional chamfering to the edges which makes it look a little more 'squidgy' (for want of a better term) and potentially gives the 43mm watch a smaller presence on the wrist. They've also rounded off the crown guards and unfortunately for me this doesn't work so well, I feel that when you are comparing luxury products with cheaper alternatives this is the sort of sharp detail that separates the pretenders from the champions, so this is somewhat disappointing.
The dial patterning has been redesigned to look (in Mr Bove's words) to look a little 'softer'. You wouldn't really notice this I don't think unless you had the new watches side by side with the older model, but when you do a side by side comparison there is quite a big difference. They have also flipped the logo and 'Aquaracer' text over, so that now the shield is closer to the middle of the dial. Again I'm not sure if I like it, but I think that's something that I'll get used to in time and it brings the Aquaracer into line with other models such as the new Carreras.
The hour markers are one of the biggest changes and one that I'm not particularly keen on. They look a bit fussy and because they are eight sided but all oriented to face the hour positions (I'm not explaining this very well I know) rather then being positioned on one plane they look at odds with each other. However, I'm assured by David at Calibre 11 that to the naked eye they appear 'round' on the wrist and one positive aspect of these complicated markers is that it will make it harder to fake the new Aquaracers (as will the adjustable clasp and hidden cyclops of course).
So many things have changed.... the hands are next on the agenda and here TAG Heuer seem to have gone for a simpler design with a wide sword shaped hour hand and a narrow, straight minute hand. Again this is not something that I'm entirely on board with, I would rather prefer that both hands came from the same design set, but equally using the wide design on both hands would have made the watch look a bit 'Seiko' and nobody wants that.
The bezel has been simplified and the edge has been given the '844' treatment (Mr Bove's words) to give it more grip. The bezel text has also been 'sharpened up' to make it look more precise and surprisingly the lume pip has gone, which is a worry really as again that's one thing that was a good indicator of authenticity when looking at a pre-owned Aquaracer. In it's place we have a triangle of lume, though I can't help thinking that TAG Heuer missed an opportunity to wow with a fully lumed bezel as can be found on the aforementioned Tudor Pelagos (something they have done on the limited edition 'Tribute to 844' incidentally).
Further to that, it's worth noting that the triangle of lume on the bezel is blue, as is the lume on the minute and second hands, all the other lume on the dial is green - apparently this is intended to make the information needed for diving easier to read, with the blue lume representing the most important information for those taking to the sea with their Aquaracer.
But the biggest, and by far the most controversial change I'm sure is the decision to move the date window from the '3' position to the '6'. That in itself would be startling enough, but to then have a round cyclops on top of a square date window, with all these octagonal lume pots... it just feels like a lot of shapes going on and far from simplifying the face as they claim it seems like they've done exactly the opposite!
The caseback is interesting... they've updated the traditional 'deep sea diver' helmet logo to look more space age and in the process they've given the helmet a dodecagon shaped visor and accessories. I honestly think perhaps they've taken this whole dodecagon/octagon/hexagon thing a bit far... the case back is patterned with hexagons, the lume pots are octagonal and the bezel and outer caseback is dodecagonal, even the tropic strap on the limited edition model has octagonal holes in it. It just feels like they got carried away and it kind of reminds of a Doug De Muro videoI watched on YouTube one time where he toured a Lamborghini and pointed out the endless hexagon design motifs here there and everywhere...
It's horrible having to make judgement of a brand new design without the luxury of being able to see and hold one first, but unfortunately the opportunity to do this is way off with deliveries of these watches not starting until June. I don't really know why that is, because TAG Heuer said fairly recently that in future watches would be available straight away rather than having a delay, and while that has been the case with recent releases such as the orange dial F1 and the Bamford Aquaracer here for some reason there is a two month wait... (actually five months in the case of the '844' limited edition).
Overall, when I look at the new watch side by side with the old one I can't help but feel that everything they've changed I prefer on the older version, but the more I look at the new one the more it starts to come together. I feel like in a few months time, with exposure to the new look I will feel more positive about it, but right now it has left me scratching my head a little bit.
But God knows I don't want TAG Heuer to turn into Rolex, I'd much rather they released something that initially leaves me perplexed than bored and wondering what has exactly has changed, after all TAG Heuer is supposed to be 'avant-garde' which by it's very definition means 'experimental, radical or unorthodox and is frequently characterized by aesthetic innovation and initial unacceptability'.
The 2021 Aquaracer is initially available in eight variations (all automatic), including three ladies models, a green dial/bezel titanium piece and a limited edition 'Tribute to 844'. These last two models I will discuss in more detail next time, for now lets turn this over to the C.O.C.O. Council and see what they have to say about the new models...
WBP201B.BA0632: Blue dial/blue bezel/stainless steel: (6.0/10)
WBP201C.BA0632: Silver dial/black bezel/stainless steel: (5.7/10)
WBP208B.BF0631: Green dial/green bezel/titanium: (5.7/10)
WBP208C.FT6201: 'Tribute to 844' limited Edition: (7.3/10)
"Overall, the 844 is the only one I'd consider. This Aquaracer update isn't too exciting otherwise and the upside down cyclops is weird."
"I know that the dial still says Automatic but the Professional name has long been associated with quartz watches in TAG Heuer's range so this adds to the brand confusion."
"I can't decide whether to buy 844 or not. I feel the magnifier for the date is strange. Couldn't it be in the same position as before? And I don't want everything to be automatic."
"3 out of 10 I'm afraid - across the board. I can't really see the point of this refresh. The new models aren't technically any better than the previous generation, and I find them less visually appealing. There's too many different shapes going on - teak dial, dodecagon bezel now with a serrated edge, octagonal markers, round cyclops at 6 o'clock on a square date window, triangular marker at 12 o'clock on the bezel. It's a mess. The other thing I find a bit odd is the sizing. 43mm is way too big for me, and 36mm way too small for a dive watch. A hard pass for me - just not as good as the previous generation of 41mm automatic ceramic bezel Aquaracers. TAG should have stuck with that design and put in a better movement."
"The Aquracer gets a micro-adjustment clasp but the much more expensive Carreras do not. WTF! Seriously!"
"It's a little jumbled up with all the clashing shapes, though I think it's still a nice design. Problem is, much like the new BMW M3 / M4, what is otherwise a fairly nice design is absolutely trashed by a big ugly feature that you just cannot overlook - the 6 o'clock date cyclops is the Aquaracer's mole rat grille. Throws off the entire balance of the dial IMO. 4/10, would have been a 6 without it."
"I am not being lazy. But I will give 7 to all of em. The 844 tribute included. I didn't even realize it was tribute to 844 until it was mentioned. I was expecting a different 844 to be honest. One that is closer to the original. Anyway i dont hate the new AR. I think its still a good watch."
"With the pricing of this new range, along with that of recent Carreras and Monacos, it is very apparent that the new CEO is trying to push the brand upmarket. It is interesting that the Calibre 5 text has been removed from the dial. I suspect that text doesn't fit with the push upmarket due to some of the negativity surrounding the movement."
"It's a busy dial. I like that they changed the hour markers, but seems like overkill with all the competing shapes. (see attached) Feels like a lateral move from the old design in my opinion, which is why my score is middle of the board. TH has a way of almost getting it right. It feels like they start with a a good idea and head in the right direction, then somewhere down the road a good idea transforms into 'let's make it really busy because that's our thing.' The 844 has been on my IG/Photoshop wish list since I started my account. I would pick up this design, even though I don't love the way they executed the look but need a daily driver. But at $4300 I'd rather spend my money on a Tudor BB58."
"An awful lot going on in a watch that should be simple and easy to read, the design might have have been finished then the ‘jobsworth’ insisted his input was added hence it’s busy. Maybe a couple of MM too big at 43 and 36 a little small, even for the ladies who want this look. A lot of competition at the price point too. I may be in the minority but I find the cyclops handy but one plus doesn’t guarantee a winner."
"I would buy the 844/Monnin tribute instantly if I had some spare budget. This one looks awesome!!! Close to the Bamford LE from 2020. Looking forward for more pics and hopefully seeing it in the metal. But the price is detached. I don't have a problem with the integration of round and straight shapes. The hands could be seen as a modern interpretation of the original Monnin cathedral-hands. The pics of the real watches (not renders) I have seen so far look very fine. I was hoping for a relaunch of the carbon hairspring. So that's a negative."
"It feels like they have lost some of the unique aquaracer DNA - the shaping on the bezel, the hour markers - and shifted towards more generic fauxlex dive watch features. I particularly dislike the shape of the markers, I think the previous AR with round makers was better executed (I forget the reference and can't find pictures, but about 3 years ago I saw a recent-ish AR with round hour markers for sale in Rome airport). The cyclops is hideous, putting the date at 6 seems like a micro-brand-esque differentiator, designed to say 'Its not a fake sub because the date is in a different place' no date would have been better. At least if it was an external cyclops it could be removed easily. I quite like the chamfer on the case and the new case back is a welcome update, although I like it slightly less now I see the tie in to the 'octogons are our thing' theme. I do like the red 24hr markers on the 844 homage and don't mind the fauxtina, but in general it is hard to love because the cyclops and date ruins it."
"I think the case and bezel have been improved in many respects. The chamfers I don’t like. Bracelet still lacks inspiration. I prefer the old crown guards, which I didn’t expect I’d ever say. I absolutely don’t like the hour markers and the cyclops at 6 is ridiculous. The caseback is meh. The jury’s still out on the hands. From what I’ve seen of the 40mm models (coming later - ed) the biggest issues will be dealt with so I hope I’ll like that one (a lot) more."
"The first four are not very different from the Aquaracer we already knew, but the 844 is a real novelty, and I also like it much more with that perforated rubber strap than with the bracelet."
Make sure to check out Calibre 11's hands on review (with live pictures):
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