Friday, 23 April 2021

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5 'Tribute to 844' Limited Edition

 
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When I first heard that TAG Heuer were intending to release an Aquaracer with the dreaded 'fauxtina' I was not overly impressed. First of all, I've never been a fan of artificially aged lume, but secondly, and more importantly, the Aquaracer range isn't even twenty years old yet - so to 'pretend' that this is some sort of 'heritage' piece is a bit of a joke. Fair enough, TAG Heuer have been fairly specific about what this watch is and what it isn't, but even so their explanations seem a little bit 'contrived'.

I've never really understood the concept that the Aquaracer is the descendent of the legendary 1000 Series. It literally evolved from the 2000 Series, in fact when the first Aquaracer was released (the one with the round bezel and lume dots, ironically) it was initially called the 2000 Aquaracer, just as the Aquagraph was initially called the 2000 Aquagraph. But then the 2000 name was dropped and the 2000 Aquaracer became, well.... just the Aquaracer. Along the way it also adopted the dodecagonal bezel from the 3000 Series, which is perhaps the single most recognisable feature of the modern Aquaracer.

I mean, I get that the 1000 Series was the original Heuer diver and the Aquaracer is the current TAG Heuer diver, but beyond that it's a little bit of a leap for me.


But leaving all this aside, I was still not keen on the idea of a 'retro-heritage' Aquaracer... at least until launch day, when I was slightly pained to admit that it was the best looking of the 2021 models. Ouch - how did that happen? I don't even like the heritage divers that everyone else raves about (Blancpain 50 Fathoms, Longines Legend Diver, etc) but this one really works!

Side by side with the 844 you can see how they've taken the details, like the bezel edge, and applied it to the new model. I still don't like the octagonal lume pots, though I'm reserving final judgment on those until I can actually get to see a new Aquaracer in the flesh, but now that it's been a couple of weeks since the big launch I do think the new Aquaracer is starting to gel.


The round cyclops at six is still the major bone of contention, but I think I'm even starting to come to terms with that - especially as the 'lump' is now underneath the glass; I think if it was on top it could have been a dealbreaker for me and many others. I'm not quite so sure about the octagonal holes in the tropic strap, I think maybe that is verging on kitsch... but I guess it's a bit of fun; I wonder how many of the 844 people who get to own one will switch that strap out for something more traditional though?

Despite the limited numbers available the watch is still available on the UK website, and that is perhaps due to one or both of the following factors: 1) the standard stainless steel models are £2500, whereas the titanium models (of which this is one) attract a £1000 premium, and in this case an £1100 premium, and 2) who exactly is this model aimed at? 


While this design looks great, it does seem a bit 'redumbnant'. If you are into the 'classic/retro' look then surely the ultra-modern Aquaracer is not the model for you, and if you like the dodecagonal bezel and the ultra bright lume of the Aquaracer, then surely the retro treatment is probably not going to be your thing either? Yes, I did say that this watch seems to be the best looking of the new Aquaracers, but that is perhaps despite the fauxtina and retro details. Pretty much any watch looks killer in black and red and this one has definite echoes of the Monza 40th Anniversary (the other retro watch that I actually like, and also one with a racing strap curiously enough). Give this one standard lume and switch out the 24 hour numbers for some other red flashes and I'm sure I'd like this one just as much.

So, since you can buy an original 844 for less than £3600 clearly the target market for this watch is not someone who 'wants an original but can't afford it', but rather someone who wants a new watch but likes a superficially retro vibe. Again, I do think this is the best looking 2021 Aquaracer we've seen so far, but I do wonder how many people will actually put their hands in their pockets for it? Initially I thought 844 pieces was far too few, but now I'm starting to wonder if they haven't pitched it just right. 


I can imagine in a few years that this, like the Carrera 160 Silver dial, will become one of those sought after watches even though it didn't sell out like hot cakes on release and I guess at least the rumour that the 'Tribute to 844' was to have the Heuer badge on the dial turned out to be a lot of nonsense; I really do think that would have been a step too far for everyone, so let's be thankful for common sense prevailing. 

Hopefully in the not too distant future I will be able to visit a TAG Heuer boutique and see some of the newer pieces in the flesh. It's been a long time since my visit to the Sheffield store (I think it was September 2020) and there's been a good few releases since then - not least the Bamford Aquaracer, which I still haven't managed to get a proper look at. This one isn't even due until next September and I guess there's a fair chance it will sell out before it actually hits the stores, so this could be another one of those elusive limited editions that only their owners ever actually get to see. I hope not, it would be nice to be able to see one, just once before they completely disappear into people's collections.

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