FEATURE: Watches & Wonders 2021 (Part 1: IWC, Tudor and Breitling)

 

Remember how last year the watch companies all said "Watch shows are old hat, we don't need a watch show anymore... everything is virtual and online. We have social media, we don't need a huge, expensive show to sell our products. We will launch everything on our own terms via the internet cos all the kids are on there and screw those Baselworld guys." 

Well, it didn't take above a couple of months for talk of a new show to start and this year we got the first episode of 'Watches and Wonders'. Due to the continuing pandemic of course this year's 'show' was virtual, but the intention is to make it a physical show as soon as it is feasible to do so. So maybe watch shows aren't 'old hat' after all...? Quelle surprise! After all, rich people can't show up to a virtual show in their Ferraris / helicopters and schmooze with their equally rich buddies can they? 

It was dumb to think that a luxury product can exist solely online; who really want's to buy their Lamborghini or their Richard Mille from a website? But let's be honest it was more about cutting out the Baselworld people and taking back control of the fair than ever taking the show to a virtual place, that was just a temporary and convenient argument for the mutiny.

So along with our Swedish friend Jim Dollares, I thought it would be good to at least take a (somewhat irreverent it must be said) look at some of the more interesting things to come out of the inaugural Watches and Wonders show.. so let's do that. 

We started on a wrong foot as Jim's first reaction was not overly positive:

JIM: Man this whole digital watch fair seems to be just a big mess of 'everyone releasing a ton of stuff at the same time'. Is there even a proper way to "attend" the fair, I couldn't even find a schedule on their website?

ROB: Yes, that is a major failing isn't it. Surely there should have been some kind of order of business where the brands all got together and organised themselves so they weren't all dumping their new pieces at once. Typical, even when they take control of the 'show' they still can't get it right.... and Breitling didn't even pay to be a part of it, they just released their new watches at the same time and the press just 'assumed' it was part of the show - hahahahaha. Good on them! 

ROB: Okay let's start with this IWC Top Gun Mojave Desert 'limited production' do-da. I'm not really a fan of IWC at the best of times, but these are quite eye catching. Apparently 'limited production' varies from limited edition in that there is no set number of watches in total, but they will only make a certain number of pieces each year...

JIM: Oh yes you know I do love IWC and they just keep getting better and better. This year's homerun, this far, for IWC in my eyes is not the Mojave editions though, it is the smaller standard pilot chronograph with blue sunburst and 41 mm case. I have always loved the pilot chrono but thought it was too big. Now it is something I think I could actually wear and enjoy!

ROB: That watch is very nice, it reminds me of those 'timeless' looking Calibre 16 Carreras that I rave about occasionally... and which would be a lot more affordable, obviously.

JIM: Yes yes that's true but, with the IWC you get a completely different level of refinement. An IWC movement that will give such pleasure and satisfaction in soul and mind when you operate it. A pilot from IWC has long been on my wish list and contrary to some other brands they just keep improving and do things that suit my preferences.

ROB: What do you think of that sandy finish on the Mojave? I'm really not sure at all.... seems like something you would get tired of eventually and wish it was just black.

JIM: I think it is very cool but I agree, this feels like something aimed towards people who already have a handful of Big Pilots and looking to spend between £15-35k on a watch they can wear a couple of times a year to look cool and enjoy something fun. Probably not something anyone buys as his first big pilot, or first IWC for that matter.

ROB: Oh this Tudor looks cool, I really like the green and gold combination. Kinda like an upmarket version of the Harrods Black Bay.

JIM: Yes solid gold case with a green dial is a superb combo. One thing I dislike about all Rolex and Tudor marketing though is how falsely they mislead you by showing their products without a ton of crystal reflections. All these release photos and renders look as if Tudor uses anti-reflective coating but in reality the crystal works as a mirror of constant reflections. Did you see the silver case BB58? Is silver a good material for a case? Won't it scratch like a motherf*cker?

ROB: Maybe... won't it tarnish as well? All my wife's silver jewellery gets that brown tint to it that you have to clean off with a special cloth, lovely!

JIM: Oh yes! Didn't even think of that! Well I guess you can do as old ladies do with their silverware, putting it in a bowl with water and salt or something and soon it looks brand new again. Seems perfect for a watch. But I think that the online community will soon learn that this is charming, similar to that it is apparently charming when your bronze watch turns into something that looks like you found it in a dumpster.

ROB: Oh apparently Tudor have discovered a way to stop it turning brown.... but then I just saw Tim Mosso questioning that in a WatchBox video, saying no one has managed to do that in hundreds of years, so I guess we'll see!

JIM: Isn't it strange that Tudor releases a solid gold diver sold for £12k? The distinction between Tudor and Rolex gets more blurry. Sure, a solid gold diver from Rolex is obviously more expensive but it gets a bit weird to say that Tudor is affordable. Everything comes down to perspective I suppose. Do you really like the gold and green? I am not a fan actually. I have two major concerns with it. First of all, a gold watch should be polished. I think this one from Tudor has no polished sides or anything on the case. Secondly the caseback gives me nightmares. A display caseback on a watch that has what might be one of the ugliest watch movements developed in modern times. I mean look at it. Would you pay £12k for that cheap looking thing?

ROB: No, of course not... seems like everyone is picking up on the fact that the display caseback is simply a cheap option since sapphire is a lot cheaper than gold. I guess it's a bronze/green Autavia for me then, not that I was ever going to go off brand of course.

JIM: One thing I really like from Tudor this year is, obviously, the Black Bay 36 with a stunning sunburst silver dial. The only thing I am negotiating with myself right now though is if it is really worth driving the 250 km, one way, to the closest AD to see it in person. 

ROB: But this is clearly meant for women, no?

JIM: Perfect for me and my girly wrist then. Are you a fan of the Black Bay 36 line?

ROB: Ummm, I'd never really thought about it... you know I don't really take much notice of anything that isn't TAG Heuer. So is it just about the silver dial?

JIM: Noooo its a lot more than just that. I tried this watch both in 36 and 41, I think it was in 2019 and since then the 36 has been in the back of my mind. I remember that the applied indices looked perfect on a dial that is very well balanced. The case looked great, bracelet wore nicely. The whole experience of putting that watch on wrist was a pleasure. You know when you try a watch and it just clicks. It felt luxurious but in a discrete way. I remember thinking something like "wow this is a premium watch, I cant believe it doesn't cost more". And now Tudor made it even more perfect with a silver dial!

ROB: Well now that you've told me they make it in 41mm it makes more sense. But wait, the Black Bay 36 is 36mm, the Black Bay 41 is 41mm but the Black Bay 58 is 39mm or 41mm but looks completely different? That makes a whole lot of sense doesn't it?

JIM: No no, the Black Bay 58 is only available in 39 mm. The Black Bay is 41. And the Black Bay 41 is also 41 mm. But the Black Bay in bronze is 43. You are right, the naming of these models doesn't make full sense. Many watch brands do have a nice way of aiming to confuse their customers though, why should Tudor be any different?

ROB: So why didn't they call the Black Bay 58 the Black Bay 39? Oh, never mind...

ROB: Now, I know you have this kinda weird love/hate relationship with Breitling and I'm sorry but I feel like we have to talk about this.... thing. I can't quite believe this exists. What the hell kind of colour is that green? It's absolutely dreadful. I know people will say 'Oh yes, they made this in 1942' and it was the colour of XYZ Bomber Squadron and all that, but a hideous colour is a hideous colour. BMW and Mercedes made beige cars in the 80s but you don't see them bringing them out again as 'heritage' pieces do you? God, how do Breitling make something as cool as the Endurance Pro and then dump this on us? Seriously...

JIM: Dude, I love the comparison with beige cars in the 80's, spot on! This shade of green ain't my cup of tea at all... it is... I don't know, difficult to even find a word that describes it. I don't think it is obviously ugly nor something I hate. It just doesn't do anything for me. Is there anything in the world we can think of that has this odd colour? I cant think of anything!

ROB: Me neither, let's sleep on it and see if anything comes to mind. Do you want to talk about Panerai?

JIM: No.

ROB: Me neither...

PART 2 of Watches and Wonders 2021 will follow on Thursday...