ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre TH20-00 Solid Gold Chronograph

 

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TAG Heuer Boutique / London, 28th October 2023

Oh boy, here we go again with another 39mm glassbox... why do I do this to myself?

Now I don't want to sound like a broken record, but even though I've tried on all three previous 39mm Carrera glasboxes (the reverse panda, the blue dial and the Skipper) for some reason it still shocks me when I get one on the wrist and I realise just how small and toy-like they are. Yes 'toy-like'. Sorry if that offends, but these are just hilarious on my 7.5/8" wrist.

Now you might be thinking to yourself, 'Pfft, Rob... you're such a thug. Truly there is nothing finer in life than a delicate, slim 36mm Patek Philippe, but I suppose you wouldn't appreciate something as elegant and timeless as that'. And you'd be wrong. I can totally appreciate something like that, but these watches aren't timeless and elegant, in fact while everyone else is falling over themselves to congratulate TAG Heuer on their wonderful new direction, I honestly think these are going to age badly.

But hey, what do I know, I'm not an expert, just an enthusiast. But sadly, my enthusiasm for the the 39mm glassbox has never taken off and while we're on the subject I've never really fallen for the charms of the 1158CHN to which this particular model pays homage either. Indeed, leaving aside the tacky looking bracelet (oh no he didn't!), it has always bemused me that a Carrera with such stubby, un-Carrera-like lugs could ever be held in such high regard. But there we are...

It's almost shocking to me that a watch like this, made of solid gold and costing this much money can make so little impression on me, but I do like the overall colour scheme and I do like the vertically brushed gold dial, it's just everything else I don't like. I don't like the white date wheel, I don't like how pronounced the subdials are and I don't like how the subdials look slightly too far apart either. The running seconds on these watches always looks terrible and the only reason this isn't my least favourite of the 39mm glassboxes is because I really dislike the reverse panda with its dreadful orange/pink lume and stupid 12 o'clock date.

This watch is also way too thick for it's diameter and the curvy (under the glass) bezel looks dreadful in any colour but especially this one. While I don't particularly care for the 'Skipper' I will concede it is easily the best of the four, which isn't saying a lot, honestly... but whatever, if you like the original Skipper design then you're probably going to like the new one too. I get it. But this is dreadful.

It's funny. This, if I remember correctly, is the 5th solid-gold modern-era TAG Heuer I've tried on and still the only one that made me wish I could afford to buy it was last year's reverse panda ('JH90'); that is a truly special watch and something you could really feel proud wearing, the others have all left me cold and in every case* I've come away thinking the gold has detracted from the aesthetics of the watch not added to it. Here of course there's no steel alternative for me to make comparisons with, but it still left me absolutely unmoved.

*The solid gold Aquaracer is an exception, it doesn't look 'worse' than the steel version, but for a quarter of the price you can get a lot of the same look by buying the two-tone model.

Oh well, I guess that's my TAG Heuer Christmas card in the bin then! 😟

On a more positive note, next time we'll be looking at my latest purchase. I know, I didn't think I was going to buy anything else this year either!