Hello again dear readers, we're really knocking on the door of 2024 now so it's time to take one final look back at 2023 in the company of our favourite Swedish Aquaracer enthusiast Jim Dollares.
ROB: Hey Jim, are you excited to look back over this massive year for TAG Heuer?
JIM: Merry Christmas from a snowy, cold and beautiful Sweden! Yes indeed, what a year it has been for fans of TAG Heuer. Plenty of highlights but also some of the worst releases in modern times.
ROB: Controversial stuff from the start, but yes I have to agree with you on that one... but oddly we seem to be in the minority when it comes to talking about the new 39mm Glassbox Carreras. Why is it do you think that everyone and his dog loves these new ones, when they are clearly inferior to the old glassbox re-issues?
JIM: I truly don't know and it confuses me. For years, all we heard was that the Heuer logo and vintage inspired pieces were what they all wanted, 'Sure it looks decent, but I wish it had the Heuer logo', was what they told us on repeat.
CBK221B Silver 160th Anniversary Carrera (2020)
I thought I would have turned around and started liking the new glassboxes by now but they just get worse in my eyes. As you know, one of the watches in my 'three-piece' watch collection is the CBK221B (160th Anniversary Glassbox) and every time I wear it I am reminded why the new ones are worse in every single aspect.
I like to refer to the new ones as poser-glassboxes. I guess in the future the CBK glassboxes will be desirable collector pieces if TAG keeps releasing poser glassboxes in large numbers as standard production...
ROB: I know... and as you know 'vintage' is definitely not my thing and the 39mm reissues were never my favourite watches, but these new ones are honestly some of my least favourite TAG Heuer pieces ever. I mean right down there with the weird CAF Aquaracers with the eyes and smiley mouth or the mid 2000 Formula 1s.
And yet everyone in the media is screaming 'TAG IS BACK!' and they're all holding these awful watches up as the reason why. I find it utterly perplexing. I will concede the Skipper is the best of the bunch, but that's about as much as I can say.
JIM: Skipper? I call it 'Skip it'. Why cant you go work for TAG so we could get some actual sales numbers. Everyone is praising these but how many do they actually sell? If they sell a lot I fear 2024 will be heavy on the glassbox front too.
ROB: I'm sure it will... though it's interesting that the C.O.C.O. didn't score the watches as highly as I expected. Actually I don't mind the 42mm so much, the Chronosprint was quite nice, but the 39s I just can't take to.
Still it wasn't all bad on the Carrera front was it?
JIM: I agree with you, it was far from terrible on all things Carrera this year. I am sure we're thinking of the same thing? The insanely sexy pink dial 36mm version, also known as 'the Barbie'. I haven't seen that Barbie movie yet but I remember seeing some photos of "man" Barbie wearing that one.
ROB: I'll admit I was pretty surprised when you picked the pink Carrera as your watch of the year, even though it looked ridiculous on your wrist. But at least you didn't pick the Panda like everyone else. I still can't make my mind up about the 'Barbie' watch, it's certainly bold and not at all boring... I just wish it was a bit more pink and a bit brighter cos in person it looks kinda reddish and dark.
JIM: Hahaha I forgot that the panda was also a release of this year! But yes, Barbie is still a cooler and better looking piece in my eyes.
ROB: The Carrera that stood out to me this year was the Porsche Racing Orange Lava Heuer 02 Chrono. Now that's a watch that looks every penny of its £6150 price tag. I seriously thought about buying that one, but I just couldn't spend that kind of money on a watch that didn't have a bracelet.
JIM: Yes da Orange Lava was proper cool and felt very premium in hand. I recall polished black DLC, do I remember that detail correctly? Reminds me of the 2016 Monza re-edition with its glossy deluxe looking coating. Would you want it to have a DLC coated black steel bracelet?
ROB: Yes it's beautiful, shiny and lux looking indeed.... but no a DLC bracelet would be even worse! Haha.
JIM: So you would not buy this bad boy new due to the high price but could you see yourself adding it to the collection once they appear for cheap on the used market?
ROB: I can't see this ever being 'cheap', and there's still the issue that it has Porsche written on it when I don't own, nor really desire to own a Porsche. As I believe you pointed out to me when we visited the Oxford Street store in May.
JIM: I believe I did say that, yes...
You know one question that has been on both of our minds for years now. What is a TAG Heuer Carrera? Why not look at four examples of releases during 2023 to see whether this year brings any clarity to the question...
ROB: Well... you know, ever since I joined the THF forum (formerly Calibre 11) people have been telling me that Carrera is defined by its clear dial and long lugs. But then when I started looking back through history I noticed that the long lugs thing is a red herring, because there's plenty of older Carreras that have stubby lugs.
It's like people want the 'bastardization' of the Carrera to be a current era problem, but it isn't. Isn't one of the most revered Carreras the 1158CHN which does not fit the description, but for some reason it's okay. I mean you tell me, which has the stubbiest lugs, that one or the modular Carreras?
It's like when you start looking through the older catalogues you see things that make no sense, like a plastic cased 2000 Series that doesn't look anything like any 2000 you've ever seen. Plus how can you have long lugs on a 44mm watch? The only reason it had long lugs in the first place was because it was too darn small!
JIM: I guess the good thing is you could then say that this year TAG Heuer just continued their long respected heritage and tradition of 'Carrera' meaning 'any type of watch'. In a way this reminds me of BMW. A BMW can look like anything and in the last decade has had no clear design language, just a mix of everything from mega shitters to decent looking vehicles.
ROB: We also had some interesting 42mm 'Elegant' Carreras this year didn't we? I particularly liked the Chronotempvs and the French Edition, but also the black and blue dials with the orange swoosh.
JIM: I think your impressions have been more positive than mine this year when it comes to the Carrera family. The French edition is terrible if you ask me but the Chronotempvs looks kinda cool. The orange swoosh blue dial is probably my favourite Elegant Carrera this year but far from reaching for my wallet to actually purchase one.
I also think that I already own the most perfect Carrera the world will ever see and this might make me more sceptical and less excited in general about the new releases. It is like dating a supermodel and then ugly women hit on you when you're out and about, why would you be the slightest bit intrigued by that when you know what you have waiting for you at home?
ROB: Well okay, I guess that makes sense. But then doesn't that mean the Carrera is a dead end for you?
JIM: Hmmm maybe so! Is this why I am all about the Aquaracer these days?
ROB: Well if that isn't a nice segue then I don't know what is... let's move on to the Aquaracer eh!
JIM: You want to talk about that perfect Watches of Switzerland limited edition, full ensured to scratch cheap grade titanium, Aquaracer 300 don't you? I know, it was definitely a highlight of the year and despite the titanium being cheaper than a pack of sausages at Lidl supermarket it does look and wear pretty well.
For a long time I was hesitant about these cheap grade 2 soft titanium models that TAG has been releasing in the last couple of year. I mean, there is nothing close to luxury finishing on the case or the bracelet and major scratches will mess the whole thing up just by looking at it. You have seen how my stainless steel watches look, imagine what something like this would look like after 3 months in my possession.
ROB: Yeah, maybe not one for you eh.. but there were plenty of other more hard wearing Aquaracers, what about that crazy Hawaii limited edition with the yellow hands?
JIM: What do you mean crazy? It was a wonderful, beautiful looking, silver dialed, properly limited edition of the Aquaracer 300. I hope we see more things like this next year. You were not a fan of the yellow hands right?
ROB: I actually quite liked them, but if I'm honest I would prefer the standard silver dial. The thing was really cool about that one was the dark blue bezel. They should definitely make a silver dial 300 with a dark blue bezel and standard hands, that would be very cool.
JIM: Agreed, that would be totally awesome!
ROB: We also saw the launch of the sexy two tone models this year with the solid gold bezel insert. I was worried when I saw the photos and renders because they looked terrible. But in person they were a completely different beast and so cool on the rubber straps.
JIM: What can I say. Enttäuschung is the German word for disappointment. These two-toners were a total enttäuschung to me. Of course I compare them to the greatest two-tone TAG Heuer watch ever manufactured, the WBD2120, which is one of my grail pieces.
Yes sure, the new ones released this year look nice in hand, especially the blue with yellow gold bezel but I just can't get over that they only come on rubber strap, something you find cool but I see as a negative detail since it doesn't provide that Rolex bluesey inspired look that I love about two-tone divers.
ROB: But what you really find disappointing, I would venture, is that these classy new pieces don't give off the utterly douchebaggy vibe you're searching for. Am I right?
JIM: Yes this is correct. When the day comes and I go gold, it will be with a nice flair and style of ultimate douchebaginess. If people don't think of you as a douchebag, what is the point of wearing gold, honestly?
ROB: Well, of course there are always the full gold £16,000 Aquaracers with the ludicrous looking black crowns... do they fit the bill?
JIM: No definitely not because those might make people think that you actually have money in the bank. Two-tone, preferably gold plated, is the ultimate level of douchebag. In a good way.
WBP2115.BA0627
ROB: Right... and let's not forget to mention, of course, the stunning green dial Aquaracer which was a home run from TAG Heuer and one even some previously TAG Heuer hating YouTubers have been holding up as being examples of why TAG Heuer is crushing it this year... and there was also a red dial one which looked a bit odd.
JIM: Funny ain't it, like a traffic light the green says yes let's go and the red one screams hit the brakes on this piece of shit. The green one is definitely up there among some of the best Aquaracers in modern times. Would it make it into a top 10 Aquaracers list though? That is a tough one, I will come back to you once I have made my list of 10 best Aquaracers ever made.
ROB: Can't wait... and now, I think it is time we talk about the very unexpected and totally bonkers carbon Monza. What on Earth do you got to say about dat?
JIM: What I like about the Monza the most is that TAG Heuer decided to take one of these legendary racing heritage models that so many of the old moldy collectors love, and turn it into a futuristic Biver terminator looking watch that those collectors would probably not even acknowledge as a true (TAG) Heuer piece. With that said, why could they simply not release this under a brand new name? Is there not room in the catalogue for futuristic, cool, bold, manly pieces like this?
ROB: What do you mean a brand new name? Have you not read the new book of rules which all Swiss watch companies must abide by? I direct you to page 45, paragraph 2 subsection b and I quote - 'All new watches must be released under an existing model name (either current or previously used no later than 1979), this ensures that all products maintain the carefully crafted illusion of 'heritage' even if the new piece has little more than a passing resemblance to a classic model'.
JIM: LOL.
ROB: Well I guess that just leaves us with the Monacos then, huh... on the plus side we had the Night Driver and the turquoise skeleton and on the not so plus side we had the Las Vegas GP 're-edition'.
JIM: Yawn..... on a scale from 'I could sell my mother to afford this watch' to 'I would rather die', where do you stand in regard to the Monaco?
ROB: To be pretty honest, I don't really get it. For years I wanted a Monaco 24 or the Calibre 12 boutique Monaco with the 24 case, but now the only Monaco I would genuinely consider buying is the blue Heuer 02 on the bracelet - you know, the one with the 'in-the-house' movement and the precariously positioned date, but only cos I've seen them for sale for about £4000.
I try them on now and again, like when the Gulf came out, but it just doesn't connect with me at all. It feels awkward on the wrist and just... kinda odd, honestly. It's weird because the Microtimer is similar in size, but because it has a curved case (top and bottom) and a super wide strap it wears so much better.
JIM: Yes I hear you. I think TAG Heuer has worked so hard to brainwash everyone about the Monaco's iconic status that it just gets silly. I see a Monaco, immediately I think of really old men who dream to be some old actor named Steve MacQueen. I saw one film once with that guy, supposed to have this epic car scene, Bullet was the name of the film I believe. It was the worst snooze fest I have ever sat through and this epic car chase was like five minutes, the rest of it basically had zero action.
ROB: Haha, I mean... actually I do like some of them, on other people. But when I put it on it's like - nah. Although, I must admit I do kinda like the turquoise/black skeleton, that is pretty cool. But nowhere near cool enough to command nearly £10,000. That's just silly, and why is it so much more than the Dark Lord? I don't understand.
Okay I can tell you really don't wanna talk about the Monacos... so I will ask you this instead - what do you see coming down the track in 2024?
JIM: Hehe I'm sorry but I really have zero feelings or opinions on the Monaco. I understand why men in their 70's enjoy them, I guess it reminds them of a lost time when they were young and attractive but since I'm not even halfway to the age of 70 I clearly am not the target customer for the Monaco.
ROB: But, wait a minute... it wasn't that long ago you were talking about buying one.
JIM: I have no memory of this. I think your imagination is running wild again. Are you spending time with your friend Jack Daniels again?
ROB: You were gonna buy a SMQ or a Gulf, you said you tried it on many times at your AD.
JIM: Pfff what are you, some kind of super memory machine. Well yes, this was during a period when I was hooked on the marketing brainwashing scheme telling me that the Monaco is a legend, worn by actors pretending to be race car drivers. Everyone has one, surely I needed one. Then I woke up and realised I should follow my own personal preference and taste.
ROB: Amen to that, we need less 'Sheeple' in the watch world for sure. And with that said, let's return to my previous question; we seem to know very little about next year, do you see anything in your crystal ball?
JIM: Oh yes, I have some ideas for sure...
1) A yellow dial Aquaracer 300 on black rubber strap. They did blue, they did orange, next logical step is a bright yellow, perfect for serious divers diving like professionals with their mechanical Swiss watch.
2) Ceramic case Monaco. I think we will see a first ever from TAG Heuer, a black ceramic cased Monaco, limited edition with an insane price.
3) A pink dialed 'Barbie' Carrera in 39mm. Well, this is more of a wish than what I believe to be a prediction. But if they do one, I don't know how I could resist.
4) Two-tone 18k gold plated TAG Heuer Adventure 200 on two-tone bracelet. A classic "bluesey" homage with a blue dial and fully gold plated bezel. This would be even more difficult to resist than a 39mm Barbie.
5) Blue dial SuperDiver for people who go 1000 meters deep in water and enjoy the beauty of a blue wristwatch.
ROB: Wow! Those predictions are so good I'm not even gonna embarrass myself by telling you mine, haha... wow, yes... well done indeed!
Now as you know, next year is the 20th Anniversary of the glorious Aquaracer and I hope you will join me in celebrating this through a number of posts next year, I know you just love talking about your silver dial diver right?
JIM: Yes! Not only my silver ice diver... but I have a confession to make; the Aquaracer is my favourite TAG Heuer model line.
It is interesting cause you and me speak about this journey of phases noob watch-nerds go through before they dare embrace their own taste. I first fell in love with the Aquaracer which brought my attention to the brand. Then I learnt from forums, YouTube and watch marketing (paid "journalism" like Hoe-dink) that TAG Heuer is all about the legendary motorsports heritage living in the spirit of the Carrera, Monaco, Monza and such. I was told over and over how legendary these pieces are and as a noob you get caught up in these marketing phrases that have captured the collective mindset of most of the online watch world.
Don't get me wrong though, I still fancy some of the Carreras for what they are and I love my silver Carrera for its timeless design and perfect chronograph proportions. I just enjoy the Aquaracer line a lot more. I am nothing about fancy horology and movements falsely advertised as being built inside a house. What makes my heart warm is a sexy looking watch, and in particular a perfectly designed diver that says Aquaracer on the dial.
ROB: As someone who has only bought two watches this year, both of which were Aquaracers, I couldn't agree more. And I'm really looking forward to focusing on our favourite model line next year.
Okay, well I guess that's it for another year. Thanks for your input Jim, and a very Happy New Year to you and your family. I look forward to collaborating with you again throughout 2024 and who knows, maybe next year TAG Heuer will fly us out to cover Watches & Wonders?
Or maybe we'll just have to do it from home like usual, hahaha! Oh well, I hate flying anyway...
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERONE! See you back here in 2024.
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