Tuesday, 12 November 2019

INTERVIEW: Hubert (Calibre 11 Forum Member / Moderator)


If you've spent any time at all on the Calibre 11 Forum you will have come across our latest guest, Hubert is not only the 'moderator' for the forum but also an active contributor. His commitment to the Monaco is legend on the forum and hopefully another time I can get him to open up about his amazing collection of the 'square' watch, but for now for those of you who don't frequent the Calibre 11 Forum I will allow him to introduce himself...


Hello, my name is Hubert and I am a TAG Heuer enthusiast & collector. If you know me, you probably do from the Calibre11 Forums, where I serve as a Moderator. I’ve been a daily contributor since the forum started. Professionally, I am an Engineer by training, although I’ve been managing software development and products for a couple of decades.


Nice to finally have you on the blog Hubert, so just how did you get into watches?

Similar to David’s story, my other passions came first.  For as long as I can remember I’ve been into cars, movies, music, and gadgets, where my obsession with watches came later. My brain’s left hemisphere values logic, precision, and capabilities, while the right serves as a counter balance, through creativity, design, and artistic expression.  I’d say that the bridge that unites them both is unquestionably passion. Now, the answer to your question will become evident in a moment.


What was your first, or first good watch?

The first watches I remember wearing as a kid were made by Casio, Timex, and Swatch, each with their well defined identity and purpose.  When I was growing-up my mother loved watches.  During my childhood she purchased several models, some of which ended up being passed-down to me, usually when the battery expired.

The Casio were basically gadgets; recall the famous calculators and arcade models. Gotta love the 80s! I was aware there was a Seiko TV watch, but I never had it. They say never meet your heroes as they will disappoint you, maybe that applies here.

Moving on to Timex, my recollection is that these were marketed as active lifestyle watches, with deep water resistance. I still remember we all went nuts when Indiglo was introduced! No more struggles reading the digital time at night.  Progress!

As for Swatch, I was part of the age group during peak craze. I remember they were a real fashion statement and everyone wanted one. The grails were the “Swiss Made”, although most of us were just glad to be part of the club with “Quartz” models.

It was until the 90s, that I became enamoured with TAG Heuer, although I do remember having a Heuer branded alarm clock helmet during elementary school, which got lost over the years.

My love affair with the brand started after my best friend from high-school purchased a 2000 chronograph, which I thought was the coolest watch ever.


My quest to own one would not be realized unit a family trip to Florida circa 1996.  I still remember some of the details of that day!  It was right at the end of our trip where my siblings and I were shopping for souvenirs on a shopping-mall and I remember wandering being completely disinterested, until that fortuitous moment that would change everything!

At the end of the mall, stood a jeweler that carried TAG Heuer.  Like a magnet, I was drawn to their display.  I examined their stock and immediately knew I wanted.  It was right then and there that my first TAG Heuer became a black CA2111 F1 chronograph.



This became my little treasure.  I remember waking up the next day and admiring it on the hotel’s night stand.  I wore this watch daily for the next few years, until I was sent off on a long term work assignment out of the country, so I left it home to avoid any risk of being stolen.


Thereafter, I kept the brand within sight. The Kirium Carbon was interesting, but not appealing enough to convince me to buy one.

Years passed, until around 2010 or 11 when I saw an advertisement for the original 1887 Carrera in a magazine.  And just like that, my passion was reignited!  


I started researching the current TAG Heuer lineup and discovered the brand was undergoing a renaissance.  Carreras, Monacos, all sorts of exciting awards and anniversaries. Eventually my search brought me to different watch websites, where I quickly determined that the best of them all for TAG Heuer was without a doubt Calibre11.com. Through David’s articles, I came to learn about the 1887’s 3 generations and started becoming a regular reader.  Once I knew enough, I made a black v3 1887 with a steel bracelet mine.


However, it was until I had purchased 2 more Carreras (the Jack Heuer 80 and the Anthracite sequel), along with my first Monaco the CAW211D, that I felt like a bonafide enthusiast and connected with David (@Calibre11) over Instagram around 2013.  Short time after the Calibre 11 Forum started, and there I say, the rest is history!



Do you have a favourite piece in your current collection?

I can’t single one out.  Most of the watches in my collection were meticulously researched and have a strong significance.  However, if I had to put one product line over the other, it would probably be the Monacos, because I find more shortcomings with the modern Carreras and Autavias than with the Monacos. In the end, I am much more careful with the heritage (Heuer) branded models than their modern counterparts. And I tend to wear the Connected Carreras once or twice per week, so the TAG Heuer models get a lot of mileage. 


Is there a place in your collection for quartz / how do you feel about quartz watches?

Sure, my 2 F1s and plenty of Quartz fashion watches.  These are the ones that I don’t mind getting worn out or receiving minor wear and tear.   They are typically ready to be used, don’t mind travel, and as long as the battery is still alive, you can rely on the time being right.


Do you know what your next piece will be?

My most recent TAG Heuer is the 00s Monaco (CAW211Y).   The next will likely be one of the upcoming Carreras, or Autavia Chronographs. Unfortunately I was too late to get a Sinn Dark Star Bund, but maybe I’ll get one second hand.


Do you have a ‘money no object’ grail in mind?

How about an original Heuer Carrera that belonged to Jack Heuer?  Or a screen-used Monaco from Lemans?  Or Jo Siffert’s Autavia, Niki Lauda’s Monza, Andretti’s, or Jacky Ikx?  Outside the brand, dare I say Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster, if it were ever to be found?


How many watches is too many?

Easy, when you lose count of the ones you have.  But then again, who’s counting?!  ;¬)


Have you ever ‘sneaked’ a watch into the house?



Have you ever bought or sold a watch and regretted it?

I have a love / hate relationship with the Telemeter and the 39mm glassbox Carreras.  I have considered letting the Telemeter go, but I can never push myself to do so. The other one is the bullhead Jack Heuer 1887 Carrera as it’s a polarising piece; whenever I wear it, I find its faults, but since Jack helped design it, it probably will be safe.


Are you more excited by re-issues or new pieces?

I think re-issues, but only when their execution is an improvement over the originals.

In my book, if the reissue / reimagining makes the design worse, then it becomes infuriating.


Which watch would you like to see TAG Heuer re-issue?

I would love if TAG Heuer would make ~41mm reissues of the original Carreras, keeping the scaling and proportions intact.

These two would be at the top of my list:



Faux aged lume: Ingenious or travesty?

I know this is very controversial for some, but honestly it’s not a deal breaker for me, as long as the color doesn’t clash with the rest of the design.  For example, the Monza has it and it goes well with the rest of the design. 




Why do you think it is that TAG Heuer attracts more than its fair share of negativity?

I would say many factors.  Not being an independent watch company and owned & operated by the world’s premier fashion group (LVMH) doesn’t help with the critics.  Then you’ll see its marketing and long list of ambassadors, many of which have probably turned many away.


What are your thoughts on the collaboration with Bamford?

Initially I was all for it, but now I am not sure, especially after seeing many questionable designs from customers.  I find that their online studio is not very representative of the finished products.  That said, maybe if I could design one at their London office, I might get it.


Are you swayed by ‘limited editions’ and associated packaging?

It all depends on what is being offered as a “limited edition”.  If it’s a well done reissue, then I am all for it.  However my finances will tell you there have been too many limited editions in recent years, which makes it very difficult to keep up.


Is there a TAG Heuer / Heuer you really don’t like?

Never been a fan of the Grand Carreras, the S/EL, of the original Link, although the new ones are a step in the right direction. As for Heuer, I think these two are a bit hard to love:




Is there something you’d like to see more of in watch design, for example a dial colour that’s under used?

Maybe a deep emerald green dial in a Monaco.  Less army green (as in the Japan edition), and more sunburst / fume green.   Something like this:


Or a brighter green as in the new way2015 Aquaracer


As for materials, I would like to see more real carbon fiber and less marbled carbon composite.
In terms of design, better proportions, especially when doing reissues.  We need modern-sized (~41mm) heritage 3-register (3-6-9) Carreras please!


How do you feel about gold and two-tone watches, would you / do you wear them and do you feel comfortable wearing them?

When they are done well they can be attractive, but it’s hard to do.  I personally prefer alternating between brushed and polished metal, as found on the Rolex daytona steel bracelets, which in a certain light, make bracelet look like it’s two-tone.


It feels like we've come to the end of the Monaco 50th Anniversary cycle now, but if you were in charge of TAG Heuer how would you have marked the 50th anniversary of the Monaco.

Oh boy; definitely not how it came to be.  Originally I was thinking it would be like the 50th Anniversary Carrera, where we would get a heritage model (I would have liked to see a Dark Lord reissue) and a modern reinterpretation.   Or like others have said, how about a voting competition like the Autavia Cup?   Both would have been nice choices. In the end I can’t really complain too much, as I was lucky enough to have purchased the 80s, 90s and 00s Anniversary Editions.



Do you have a watch horror story?

Not yet thankfully, although I remember a visible dust particle inside my Telemeter that disintegrated within a day.


Which other brands do you appreciate / own?

I started my Omega collection fairly recently.  I have the Seamaster Diver 300 (50th Anniversary in blue and gray / Bond) and the Seamaster 300 Spectre.  I would like to get an Ed White Speedmaster (if a reissue is made) or a First Omega in Space next. I still need to get me an El Primero Zenith. As for other brands, everytime I go to Vegas, I feel like a kid in a candy store.  I don’t like every model, but each brand has some unique treasures.  If money were no object, I have my eye on on some specific models from Cartier, Bulgari, Blancpain, Patek Philippe, Zenith, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Panerai, Piaget, Bell & Ross, and Longines.


Do you see your collection growing, and if so how?

Yes, hopefully as long as possible.  This hobby has brought me enormous joy and satisfaction.  A true passion indeed! Maybe one day in a few decades, my contribution could be recognized by the brand itself. Who knows!?


Given the positive reaction to the red limited edition Monaco, would you like to see some sort of ‘Ferrari’ Monaco?

Given that Ferrari has a deal with Hublot, I doubt this will happen.  However, I would like to see another red Limited Edition, maybe in a Carrera next?


How do you feel about the Hodinkee limited edition phenomenon, and leading off of that, would you like to see TAG instigate some sort of ‘VIP’ club for people who buy regularly with special editions offered first/or possibly exclusively to members?

I think Hodinkee have built a true business, however I have not become one of their paying customers yet. As for TAG Heuer, I have elaborated about this on the forum in the past. Yes, I think TAG Heuer should strongly consider a Collectors Registry or something to that effect.  Based on the purchase history, the Collector would gain points and raise one’s status to acquire coveted pieces and limited releases. This could also be linked to discounts and special gifts. And they should also consider bringing the community’s voices to help define future products.


Who (if anybody) do you think should be TAG Heuer’s next brand ambassador?

That is an interesting question.  I think TAG Heuer should take a page from the Think Different campaign that brought Apple back when Steve Jobs returned at the helm. Imagine elegant black and white pictures of historical figures and personalities showing their connection to the brand and let that speak for itself.  Of course securing agreements and royalties is a different matter, but here are some mockups to help illustrate this idea.

TAG Heuer if you’re reading and liking this, then you know where to find me!






Well, once again we come to the end of another interview, and I hope you have enjoyed reading it. My thanks go to Hubert for taking the time to do this interview and also for providing lots of pictures to illustrate it, hopefully we can do this again sometime.

Next up, bizarrely... it will be my turn in the hot seat as our good friend Otto William has decided to turn the tables and interview me! I must say he thought up some very good questions and I am hoping he will help me out in future when it comes time to do the next swathe of interviews! 

Monday, 11 November 2019

GALLERY: TAG Heuer 6000 Series Quartz Chronograph


VIDEO: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Movement by Rudell the Jewellers


ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5 Watch

WAY218A.FC6362

TAG Heuer Boutique / Bicester Village, 22nd July 2019

I believe this was one of the first watches I tried on when I started writing my blog, I remember trying it on in a shop in Chester and being quite impressed with it, but disappointed that it looked a little small on my 7.3/4" wrist. Since then I've got used to wearing everything from 37mm to 45mm watches and so I thought I'd give it another go and see how it felt now.


To be honest, it still feels a bit small to me... though I am at a loss to explain why that should be. It has a black PVD case and a polished ceramic bezel and the black and yellow colour scheme is very attractive; the strap is this smooth backed nylon that TAG seem very keen on these days and it looks great with the yellow stitching, although equally you could switch it out for a rubber strap if you wanted to (NB: TAG Heuer make a fitted rubber strap for this piece with a yellow backing so you don't even need to miss out on that splash of colour), but it still looks a bit small and 'pebbly' on me, which is a shame because I really do like it.


The lume on these Aquaracers is excellent and shines brightly in two different colours (green and blue), while the dial on these is great looking with the slatted black background, clear hour markings and another splash of yellow on the second hand. I prefer the design of this three hander to the more cluttered dial of the Calibre 16 chronograph, but the big plus of the Cal16 is the 43mm case size. It's only 2mm bigger but it seems to make a lot of difference with this one for some reason.

I'm sure this watch is long gone from the store (this post has been hanging around since July after all) especially as it was on sale at £1680 (list price is £2400), but there's every chance of repeat stock and I'm sure if it does come back into the store it wouldn't sit on the shelf for long.

Sunday, 10 November 2019

GALLERY: TAG Heuer 2000 Exclusive Quartz Watch


FEATURE: A Quick Look in at the TAG Heuer Outlet in Cheshire Oaks


TAG Heuer Outlet / Cheshire Oaks, 9th November 2019

Situated about 20 miles south-west of Manchester and about 5 miles to the north of Chester, Cheshire Oaks is to my mind the best designer outlet in the UK. I know that the Bicester Village outlet is now the biggest tourist attraction in the country (having recently taken that plaudit away from Buckingham Palace!), and yes the TAG Heuer boutique in Bicester Village is absolutely the best one to visit (because they have the best stock), but overall Cheshire Oaks wins hands down. This is obviously a matter of personal taste, but for me there is so much of Bicester Village that is of no interest to me, that really I would probably shop in less than 10 of the stores there... on the other hand I spent four hours in Cheshire Oaks this morning and that is the shortest time I have ever spent there.

It depends what you are looking for obviously, but I personally (along with my wife) have no desire to visit Gucci, Prada, Ralph Lauren or Armani, but we do enjoy visiting Lindt, Lulu Guinness, Nike, Kurt Geiger, Karl Lagerfeld, Hotel Chocolat, Dune, Sole Trader, Jigsaw and Oakley. Bicester Village is undoubtedly the 'higher-end' outlet, it's just a shame there isn't a bit more variety... maybe they could build an annexe somewhere behind a hedge for the people who don't want a £4000 handbag? I guess the thing is that Bicester Village is mainly aimed at well heeled tourists who visit it 'once' rather than locals visiting over and over, and from that point of view it makes a lot of sense, I just wished I lived a bit nearer Cheshire Oaks because for me it's a 2hr plus drive...

Anyway, it is what it is and obviously I always make a point of looking in at the TAG Heuer store, even though I have never bought anything there... not a single thing. I did come close once, but the honest truth is that all the best stock goes to Bicester and that's just the way it is. But still there are good things to see, because Bicester can only take so much of each piece, and so we have the recently discontinued Heuer 01 Carrera (solid dial), a good selection of Grand Carreras in different colour schemes and even a yellow/black Grand Carrera Caliper.

Also on display was a watch that's well known to me, the orange/black Calibre 16 Formula 1 CAU2012 that I bought from Bicester Village back in 2017 (that one doesn't pop up that often so maybe Cheshire Oaks does get some golden nuggets?) alongside quite a good selection of two-tone Carreras and even a solid gold Carrera if I remember correctly. There's also at least one Bullhead Carrera, a selection of ladies Links and Formula 1s but only a very limited number of (500M) Aquaracers. No Monacos at all that I could see (they obviously sold that lovely Calibre 12 Monaco in the 24 case I tried on last time I was up there) and only a sprinkling of accessories and jackets.

CV201AB.BA0794

I suppose if I didn't visit Bicester Village every month or so it would be more exciting, but I guess I'm a little jaded. I did try on one watch though, a Carrera Calibre 16 Limited Edition that I posted a video review of from 'I Review Watches' back in 2018.

http://tagheuerenthusiast.blogspot.com/2018/05/video-tag-heuer-carrera-juan-manuel.html

Actually I'm not 100% sure if it is a limited edition, a special edition or just a 'novelty piece' since I can't actually seem to find out much about the watch at all; but it's certainly quite an unusual looking model with it's slate grey dial accented by two red rings around the subdials at the 12 and 6 positions.

On the wrist it wears relatively 'small' and I'm surprised to see it listed everywhere I've looked as a 42mm. I really don't think that is correct, I was wearing my 43mm Carrera today and it looked much smaller than that, I would hesitate to say it was more than 41mm. I've just checked three more websites and they all say it's 42mm, but I really struggle to believe it (and just for the record the black mother of pearl model I tried on last July was 41mm, and in that review I also said it felt more like a 39mm, so...).


It's 16-17mm thick too, which makes it quite a thick watch for it's size, but it doesn't feel top heavy (although it's hard to say for sure without having the bracelet properly sized) and the 5 section brushed steel bracelet is lifted by some small polished inserts inbetween the wider links and is finished off with a 'Grand Carrera' style clasp; actually the bracelet looks a little darker than your usual steel bracelet and you could potentially be forgiven for thinking it was titanium.

This is a very smart looking watch, and a good choice for someone who wanted a watch that would suit every occasion without being dull; those red rings give a sporty angle to an otherwise fairly dressy piece without shouting from the rooftops and undermining its all round wearability. Unfortunately I didn't catch the price, or the prices of anything in the store, but generally the standard outlet discount is 30-35% and if you'd like to find out more about this or any other watch I've mentioned then you can contact the store on 0151 356 3298.

Saturday, 9 November 2019

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Senna Edition

CAR5A99.FT6174

Surely this is the last new release for a week or two...? At least this particular run is finishing on a high note; you may remember my review of the CAR5A91 a while back (the one that took me six months to write) and how I wasn't exactly blown away by it. In fact I really didn't like it much at all, particularly the bottom heavy design (which unfortunately is still present) but mainly because I found the red highlights really jarring.

I'm not sure I like the yellow lume TAG Heuer have applied to the hands here, but I think the yellow Senna 'S' is a great improvement, but what really makes this watch work for me where the red version failed, is the green stitching on the strap. Yellow and green instantly says Brazil to me, and is a much more appropriate colour scheme than red for a Senna watch as far as I am concerned. It's a subtle detail, but as I said in my 'Fangio' post the other day it really lifts the watch. Don't get me wrong, there are some very nice red Senna watches out there, the one I tried on the other day for example, but yellow and green really says Brazil and Senna to me, so I think this is a good move here.


Would you look at that caseback, that is very cool... sure you can't see the movement, but that is really something, isn't it? I'm sure a well heeled Senna fan would find that hard to resist. I think it's great that they have really gone for it on the back, after all this is a special watch made to mark 25 years since the unfortunate and untimely death of the triple World Champion.

A criticism often leveled at 'special edition' watches is that there's too much on the dial; too much colour, too much text, too much everything... and I agree to a large extent; less is definitely more in most cases and as such I think it's a shame they've gone with that yellow lume as it looks a bit clumsy on what otherwise is quite a nicely presented piece. But on the back, you can push the boat out and that's exactly what they've done here and it looks great.

The watch is powered by a chronometer certified Heuer 02T Tourbillon movement, which has a 65 hour power reserve. It is 45mm in diameter with a matt black ceramic case, a fixed tachymetre bezel, PVD coated steel pushers and a rubber crown. The strap is matt black calfskin and the clasp that secures it is black PVD coated titanium.


The watch comes in this heavily branded presentation box, I'm not sure what it is made of, but given the price of the piece I would hope it is maybe wood or something more than the usual material. Speaking of the price, no word on that as yet... the watch is a limited edition of 65 pieces (presumably tied to the number of pole positions he achieved in his F1 career, which at the time was a record until Michael Schumacher and subsequently Lewis Hamilton surpassed it), but given the red model was around £17,000 then it's fair to assume this will be somewhere up in the high teens also.

Friday, 8 November 2019

UPDATE: TAG Heuer Bicester Village Heuer 01 Stock


It's been a little while since we've had a decent new delivery to post about, but I just thought I would post an update regarding the Heuer 01 Carreras. New stocks have arrived and the following items are still available at very considerable discounts!

CAR201W.FT6196 Heuer 01 Carrera
LIST PRICE £4250
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £2085


CAR201W.FT6122 Heuer 01 Carrera
LIST PRICE £4250
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £2050


CAR208Z.FT6046 Heuer 01 Carrera
LIST PRICE £4550
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £2205


CAR201Z.BA0714 Heuer 01 Carrera
LIST PRICE £4295
BICESTER VILLAGE PRICE £2085

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Calibre 16 'Senna' Limited Edition

CAZ2017.BA0647

I honestly don't think I've ever written five 'First Impressions' posts in a row; what is going on with TAG Heuer at the moment, they are throwing out watches like there's no tomorrow! So here we have one of two Senna tribute watches that have just been released, more on the other one tomorrow (so I guess that will be six in a row!) and first impressions are pretty good. Nice to see a higher end Formula 1 watch getting a ceramic bezel, I think if you're spending this sort of money then that should definitely be a feature and the anthracite dial looks very nice as well. I tried on a Calibre 5 Formula 1 in London earlier in the year with an anthracite dial and I was most impressed, so that's a good start.

I can't decide if I like the two tone subdials or not, I think it would have made more sense to me if the running seconds subdial (the one at the 9 position) had been black, partly because then the white dials would have related to the chronograph function, but mainly because it would have made the dial more symmetrical. 


TAG Heuer have done a very nice job on the back plate, with a very cool engraving of Ayrton Senna (something which is carried over onto the tourbillon piece as well) and some nice text on there. It's a funny thing about these Senna models, I noticed on that other Senna model I tried on the other day that although they are branded as 'limited edition' they are not numbered, nor do they state what they are limited to, so it's a bit meaningless really. Still, I guess it helps the salespeople put the screws on a little bit. :)

There's a good bit of red on this one, almost Max Verstappen levels of red... but I'm glad they didn't resort to red lume on the hands, a red chronohand is quite enough I think. The watch comes in a nice Senna branded box too, I must say I do like these new TAG Heuer boxes, much better than the old brown/cream ones, which in turn were better than the even older black ones (which seem to disintegrate as they age). They're not necessarily 'luxurious' as such, but they look more in keeping with TAG Heuer's brand philosophy.


I think, again the thing that lifts this model over the majority of the Formula 1 range is the bracelet. Whoever decided to put the Link bracelet on these Senna watches deserves a cake! We've seen them together on the quartz model before and I love it. I guess they have made it a special thing because of Ayrton's link to the S/EL range, but I would love to see the Link bracelet utilised more. Indeed, I had a fantasy of fitting one to a Red Bull quartz F1 a while back and I still think that would look amazing.

I have to keep reminding myself that this is an automatic, for some reason it 'looks' like a quartz to me... until I look at the price. £2650 is quite a lot for any Formula 1, but bear in mind that you are getting a Calibre 16 movement a ceramic bezel and a Link bracelet for that price and when you compare the prices with a Calibre 16 Link watch (without a ceramic bezel) it suddenly looks like a much better proposition.

Thursday, 7 November 2019

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Fangio Limited Edition

CV201AT.FC6475

And the new watches keep on coming! Here we have the new 2019 Fangio Limited Edition Carrera Calibre 16 in a 41mm case, and... I think it's rather nice! None of the past Fangio limited editions have really rocked my world if I'm completely honest, but this one looks quite stunning. I love the contrast between the white subdials and the black background and that 'Argentinian' blue really sets it all off nicely.


If you're going to have a stripe on a watch dial then this is how it should be, nice and thick so it doesn't look like an 'apology' for a stripe (see the latest Max Verstappen quartz Formula 1), it still affects the symmetry of the dial layout, sure. But at least it looks like it was always meant to be there.


I really like the fixed ceramic bezel on this one as well, not quite so sure about the Fangio 'signature' but it's not massively offending me. I feel like it could have been done in simple text rather than this way, which is quite hard to read and a little bit messy... but then a Fangio fan may well disagree. On the back we have the expected engraved tribute caseback that has graced many Carreras over the years.


It's a simple thing, but the colour coded stitching on the perforated leather strap finishes this limited edition off nicely and really ties it in with the dial. Speaking of the dial, thankfully there's no sign of the dreaded 'faux' aged lume, in fact I'm beginning to wonder if that concept has been quietly forgotten as I can't remember the last new TAG Heuer that utilised it. I guess it works better on some models than others, but anything with a white dial or subdial is a no-no as far as I'm concerned.


You never really can tell just from renders and photographs, but this certainly looks the part on paper. I'm hoping to visit the London boutique next week so maybe I will get to see this there. My only reservation is that the other recent 41mm Carreras I've tried on have been awfully thick and wear rather 'tall' on the wrist.

Wednesday, 6 November 2019

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer 02 Chronograph

CBL2111.FC6453

A few years ago there was a thread on the Calibre 11 forum which asked for suggestions of what the members wanted to see at Baselworld that year. By way of response I photo-shopped a Heuer 02T skeleton dial into the case of a Monaco 24, not really ever thinking such a thing was likely or even if it was technically feasible. Fast forward to 2019 and well, maybe it wasn't such a crazy idea after all.


Now I'm not seriously suggesting we're going to see a skeleton dialed Heuer 02 tourbillon anytime soon, but it's not so big a jump to that from this, the new Heuer 02 powered CBL2111 Monaco. As we saw yesterday with the release of the CAW211J limited edition Monaco, the long standing Calibre 12 movement used in the 'TAG Heuer' branded Monacos (as opposed to the left hand crown Calibre 11 movement used in the 'Heuer' branded pieces) has been retired in favour of the brands' new(ish) in-house motor.


Opinion seems to be divided about whether that's a good thing, at least as far as that 'phantom' running seconds subdial at the 6 position. I must admit I am conflicted about that myself, I'd rather have a running seconds than not have one at all, but I'd prefer it if it didn't conflict with the date window. I don't know why that is because if there was a proper subdial there (as we see on the Autavia Heuer 02) I wouldn't have a problem with it. Hmm... picky, me?


It looks kind of odd to see a Heuer 02 in the back of a Monaco, but I'm sure we'll get used to it. It's interesting that now the choice for prospective buyers is between a Sellita SW-300 powered 'Heuer' Monaco and a properly in-house designed movement in the 'TAG Heuer' version. The new Monaco sees a price hike of £500 over the old Calibre 12 powered CAW2111, which also makes it £100 more expensive than the classic Calibre 11 Monaco. That seems reasonable given that it's a superior movement, but I wonder how the market will react to that; is the cache of the 'Heuer' name worth more than the cache of an in-house movement, or is it the other way around? It's a curious conundrum, but I think dyed in the wool 'Heuer' buyers will stick with the Calibre 11 and younger buyers who care less about Steve McQueen will want the in house movement.


What I'd really like to see now is a diversification in the Monaco range; it seems rather unnecessary to have two 'traditional' Monacos with only slight differences in design, why not make the 'TAG Heuer' version a modern incarnation of the model, perhaps even including a skeleton or tourbillon in a PVD case, now that would really be something. At the very least I would like to see the 'TAG Heuer' Monaco expand it's range of dial colours, obvious moves would be the bright green of the Aquaracer and the red of the 80s Anniversary model, even if they had to be limited editions.


Could that actually happen? Well, TAG Heuer are supposed to be the 'Avant Garde' watchmaker who break all the rules, but... the Monaco is their link to history, so it remains to be seen how far they want to go at the mass market level, they've certainly pushed the envelope in the past with the Monaco V4, so I hope so. Maybe we could have a coloured Carrera-style perforated rubber strap while we're at it?

Maybe not... :)

Tuesday, 5 November 2019

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 12 'Final Edition'

CAW211J.FC6476

So, here it is... with the launch of the new Heuer 02 loaded CBL2111 Monaco, this new limited edition model marks the end of the line for the incumbent 'TAG Heuer' branded Calibre 12 Monaco, and really... what an excellent way for the model to bow out.

Limited to 1000 pieces, this isn't by any means as rare or collectible as the 50th Anniversary Monacos launched over the last few months, but at the same time I don't really expect this one to hang around too long and I certainly don't anticipate this rocking up in the outlets at a bargain price like a few past era 'limited editions' have.

The dial is brushed 'ruthenium' which according to the TAG Heuer website has... 'a dynamic iridescent colour that changes in different shades of light'. Interesting! I had a quick Google of ruthenium, which is apparently often used in jewellery, but is also apparently carcinogenic if ingested - which seems slightly incongruous to say the least! Still I'm sure it'll be fine encased in stainless steel and sapphire crystal as it is in this Monaco.  


The watch comes fitted with an alligator strap and is water resistant to 100M (standard Monaco rating), while the reverse is engraved 'Monaco Cal 12 Final Edition' and again according to the website it is also engraved with it's limited edition number.

I've always found the grey dial Monacos quite appealing, much more than the blue dial variants if I'm completely honest, although I definitely prefer the non-radial hour markers. Indeed my only two hesitations about this particular piece are those hour markers and the black subdials, I'm not sure if they don't look a little harsh against the silver background? I think it depends how dark or light that dial proves to be, if it's a fairly dark dial (as in the photo below) then I think it will look great, if it's a very light silver, then it might be a little jarring, perhaps?


Curiously, this picture on the website shows the right hand side subdial hand as red, but the main render shows it as silver. I guess this will be cleared up once some actual photographs start to emerge in the coming days. Hopefully these won't all disappear before I get a chance to see one as I'm intrigued to check out how dramatic the colour change effect is on the ruthenium dial. Somehow I get the feeling this one might be one that impresses more in the hand than on the screen, but we'll see...

This one hasn't made it onto the UK website yet, but the US price is $5950 and that equates to about £4600 if it's a straight exchange equivalent.

So that's it, the end of the Calibre 12 era, tomorrow we take a look at the new Heuer 02 Monaco.

Monday, 4 November 2019

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: TAG Heuer Monaco 50th Anniversary '2009-2019' Edition

CAW211Z.FC6470

So the wait is finally over and the last of the five '50th Anniversary' Monacos has been released... and to be honest I can't help feeling that it's a bit of a let down. To be fair the watch has a lot to live up to, with the first three watches in this series being outstandingly interesting and original takes on the Monaco theme. The fourth one was 'okay', although it seemed to have a tenuous at best 00s 'design philosophy', but this one makes a lot more sense in principle, unfortunately it seems to fall a little short in execution...


Looking back, I guess the idea of releasing each watch separately was a reasonable one, as it achieved two things: 1) We've had a summer of Monaco releases creating interest and column inches for each watch, and 2) If the watches had all been released at once as a 'collection', chances are the 4th and 5th would have got zero attention alongside the 'green', 'red' and 'concrete' models. But while the idea was good, the problem with it was that it kinda locked TAG Heuer into releasing the watches in a certain order, which hasn't really worked out so well for the last two. Perhaps the best thing to have done would have been to work backwards, and to release this first, thereby saving the red and green watches for last? Sure, the initial impact wouldn't have been as great, launching this first wouldn't have made nearly the splash that the green '70s' watch did, but once over that hump the releases would have ramped up in impact each time, instead of tailing off slightly as it seems to have.


Of course this could have been avoided if the company had delivered on the 10s concept, but they seemed to have fluffed it slightly, albeit perhaps this is understandable when you look at the bigger picture. Ever since the low quality renders were leaked onto the internet way back it was clear that this watch stuck out like a sore thumb. The dial was super dark and the case looked different to the other watches, leading to speculation that this was some kind of 'phantom' Monaco. After all, this watch is designed to represent the current decade so a 'phantom' Monaco would be a perfect place to start.


I imagine someone delivered a design concept for the 'phantom' Monaco, whereupon someone else looked at it and said 'Well, yes... I like it, but it doesn't fit in with the other watches in the set, can you make it a bit less phantomy?' And so, instead of a black dial with charcoal grey subdials we get silver subdials and a case that is matted rather than properly 'phantomised'. I guess they did go with a black date disc, so that's something... but overall the effect seems a bit muted and it has a distinct air of 'what could have been' about it.

This is definitely my least favourite of the five watches, I think if I had to put them in order I'd go with the 80s first, then the 90s, then the 70s, then the 00s and finally this 10s watch. However, Monaco fans shouldn't fret too much that this batch of releases has come to an end because we're still waiting to see what comes of the CAW211J (which is rumoured to be a 1000 piece limited edition Calibre 12 TAG Heuer Monaco) and after that there is the Heuer 02 loaded blue dial Monaco (CBL2111) to look forward to.

Saturday, 2 November 2019

ON THE WRIST: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Quartz 'Senna Edition'

WAZ1014.FT8027

Michael Jones / Northampton, 23rd October 2019

I came across this pre-owned F1 Senna in the window of Michael Jones' secondary store in the Grosvenor Centre a few weeks ago, but didn't have time to try it on. Walking through the centre again today I spotted it was still there and decided to check it out. Actually, I had to look back through my blog to check I hadn't tried this one on before; I hadn't, I think I'm getting mixed up with the original Manchester United Formula 1 which had the same strap. I did write a 'First Impressions' post back in August 2017 which was largely favourable and I notice reading that back that even then I was more inclined to the three hand version than the chronograph and I maintain that position to this day.

I must say, I really like this one. The strap is fantastic, so unusual and striking... and I love the silver aluminium bezel against the black PVD case. I'm not really a big fan of the glossy red hands, but on this particular watch for some reason it works. I know in the past I've said that I'd prefer it with silver hands, and that may be true, but I could live with the red hands for sure.


The watch is 43mm, so it wears relatively large on the wrist, although the black case does shrink it a little and the dial doesn't seem as empty as you'd think on a three handed watch of that size, perhaps because part of the dial is taken up with the red stripe to the right hand side. The dial is actually probably the weakest element of the watch, the case; bezel and strap are the stars of this show, no doubt about that, and I find it a little odd that the Arabics at '12' and '6' are almost 'phantom' numbers. They are finished in some sort of non-reflective dark silver which means they are quite hard to see in any light. I did curl my hand around the watch to check for lume and while the hands and hour marker batons are marked, those two Arabics don't appear to be (which is a shame). 


At £895, this doesn't seem a bad deal, it's in immaculate condition apart from a mark on the tail end of the rubber strap and the aluminium bezel looks pretty minty. For comparison, I just checked Watchfinder's website and they are looking for £1250 for a pre-owned 2018 model... which is £100 more than it is on TAGHeuer.com! Why on Earth would anybody pay £100 more for a used model when they could get it brand new? Makes no sense to me...

I'm reluctant to say it, but I do really like this one... I can't really buy another watch right now, but if it's still there in a couple of months... well, who knows? ;)